I have a 2018 RAM with 20k miles.
How common is the grid heater bolt issue?
Should I be concerned?
I did the wiggle test, and there was no issue there.
Also, if I remove it, will it throw a code?
I have a 2018 RAM with 20k miles.
How common is the grid heater bolt issue?
Should I be concerned?
I did the wiggle test, and there was no issue there.
Also, if I remove it, will it throw a code?
Remove it and opt for the Glacier Diesel unit.
It pulls the same power as the oem.
2021 Ram 3500 DRW, H.O., bypass oil filtration, bypass coolant filtration, S&B CAI, 4:10’s
2wd low loc kit.
Reacquired 2001 3500, 5.9 nv4500, dually cab and chassis, 5” straight pipe, edge juice w/attitude. Otherwise all stock…..for now.
Thanks, I'll look into the GD unit.
It's a hit-and-miss on specific rigs.
In my head, I'll take the reassurance that the bolt will never drop into the cylinder and delete it.
Most tuners will automatically turn off a code to be generated if you delete it.
If you live in a really cold climate, seek out the relocation intake horns by banks.
Plus, with it deleted, you won't be pulling amps on initial startups, which your charging system will enjoy.
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX, YUKON 4.56 GEARS W/ COVERS
I agree with the posts above.
It’s more for peace of mind to eliminate the possibility of catastrophic engine damage.
If you live in a cold climate, install a good aftermarket grid heater like the Glacier Diesel MegaFlow.
If you live in a warm climate, you don’t need the grid heater, but you can install an intake horn with a small screw in the heater; this will satisfy the PCM logic and avoid any grid heater-related trouble codes.
The other option is to have the grid heater trouble code programmed out.
Last edited by AK Bob; 04-03-2024 at 08:17 PM.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
I am planning on moving to Washington State, and it gets pretty cold up there.
I have read several people say a grid heater is not needed even when really cold, but I can't see any negatives to having one other than less strain on the batteries.
I deleted mine a month ago, so don't let the grid heater cycle when I start it.
I live up north, but I don't drive the truck in the winter month since we didn't have much of a winter this year; I have been driving it, and I haven't got any check engine lights.
Did you crank it on?
No issues?
I am in California currently but will be moving to Washington State soon.
With the colder months up there, I would benefit from the grid heater.
Yeah, there are no issues here, and I just started it without cycling the grid heater.
If you let it cycle the grid heater, it will give you a check engine light when you start it.
I have a slight rough idle at first but it goes away in 10-20 seconds and I can live with that.
In Eastern WA (east of the cascade summit), it gets cold in the winter; west of that summit, there are no issues in winter.
There are a few cold snaps, but you won't have an issue.
You also have a block heater to consider for help.
2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....
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