Service Electronic Throttle Control (Lightning Bolt)?

[Julian_H]

Hey guys!

Truck: 2017 RAM 2500 6.7L, weight lost by the former Doctor.

issue: service electronic throttle control (or the lighting bolt symbol - stays on)

Started: I installed the Banks MONSTER ram air intake system with the grid heater deleted and did the throttle valve delete yesterday.

The truck started up fine and seemed to run fine with more power.

So the upgrades worked, but, I now have the lightning bolt staying on saying “service electronic throttle control”.

With the throttle valve deleted, I’ve unplugged the throttle valve sensor.

Could that be the issue?

Maybe the tuner needs updating to hide the code I’m seeing on my dash?

I’ve double-checked all connections, seem good.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
J

 0 Comment(s)

[AK Bob]

Hey guys!

Truck: 2017 RAM 2500 6.7L, weight lost by the former Doctor.

issue: service electronic throttle control (or the lighting bolt symbol - stays on)

Started: I installed the Banks MONSTER ram air intake system with the grid heater deleted and did the throttle valve delete yesterday.

The truck started up fine and seemed to run fine with more power.

So the upgrades worked, but, I now have the lightning bolt staying on saying “service electronic throttle control”.

With the throttle valve deleted, I’ve unplugged the throttle valve sensor.

Could that be the issue?

Maybe the tuner needs updating to hide the code I’m seeing on my dash?

I’ve double-checked all connections, seem good.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
J

Disconnecting the throttle valve with the former Doctor’s tune should not cause the lightning bolt.

I recommend performing a full system scan of all modules.

If you post the trouble codes, we can help you narrow down the cause.

 0 Comment(s)

[Quadnuts1]

Ok, so I hope I'm where I'm supposed to be, so here goes.

After checking DTCs, I have P2121 and U010C.

My truck is a 2014 RAM 3500 4x4 Laramie Limited full delete with MM3 Tuner running just the towing tune.

The truck has been great since deletion for the past two years, and out of the blue, this started happening.

It would throw the service electronic throttle control light, and at maybe 5% of the throttle pedal, it would act like it was at full throttle, and if I pushed past that, it would return to idle.

I can sit idling and give it a little throttle, and it's cutting in and out rapidly as if it has a bad miss.

At normal idle with 0 pedal, it seems to run perfectly smooth.

I hooked my Vepeak and LL scanner up to the truck to watch the full throttle position bar graph and ran down the road with the accelerator at about 20 %.

When it would act up, the graph would go to zero even though I didn't move the pedal from 20%, or it would start bouncing around like the pedal is rapidly losing power and coming in and out.

I hope this helps describe what's happening.

The batteries tested great, and the alternator tested good.

Side note: I did run it out of diesel on a 9-hour trip, and that was the beginning of the problem.

I changed all fuel filters the next day.

 0 Comment(s)

[Corkey]

Monitor fuel rail pressure actual vs desired.

You should see 26k or 27k psi.

 0 Comment(s)

[AK Bob]

Ok, so I hope I'm where I'm supposed to be, so here goes.

After checking DTCs, I have P2121 and U010C.

My truck is a 2014 RAM 3500 4x4 Laramie Limited full delete with MM3 Tuner running just the towing tune.

The truck has been great since deletion for the past two years, and out of the blue, this started happening.

It would throw the service electronic throttle control light, and at maybe 5% of the throttle pedal, it would act like it was at full throttle, and if I pushed past that, it would return to idle.

I can sit idling and give it a little throttle, and it's cutting in and out rapidly as if it has a bad miss.

At normal idle with 0 pedal, it seems to run perfectly smooth.

I hooked my Vepeak and LL scanner up to the truck to watch the full throttle position bar graph and ran down the road with the accelerator at about 20 %.

When it would act up, the graph would go to zero even though I didn't move the pedal from 20%, or it would start bouncing around like the pedal is rapidly losing power and coming in and out.

I hope this helps describe what's happening.

The batteries tested great, and the alternator tested good.

Side note: I did run it out of diesel on a 9-hour trip, and that was the beginning of the problem.

I changed all fuel filters the next day.

While it does sound like a possible fuel supply issue, as noted above, your trouble codes are for the accelerator pedal position sensor and lost communication with the turbo actuator.

See the attached troubleshooting information for both codes attached.

 0 Comment(s)

[Quadnuts1]

Monitor fuel rail pressure actual vs desired.

You should see 26k or 27k psi.

Is that pressure at idle or under load?

At idle, I have an average of 5500 psi, and under throttle, it spikes to 26k to 27k psi.

 0 Comment(s)

[Quadnuts1]

Another update: the replacement throttle pedal assembly came in, and I installed it.

I cranked the truck to see if anything had changed, and there was no change except a new code after replacing the throttle pedal assembly.

Now, I'm getting P029D on top of P2121 and P010C.

 0 Comment(s)

[AK Bob]

Another update: the replacement throttle pedal assembly came in, and I installed it.

I cranked the truck to see if anything had changed, and there was no change except a new code after replacing the throttle pedal assembly.

Now, I'm getting P029D on top of P2121 and P010C.

Okay, I believe you have possibly mistyped your trouble codes. I think you have P2121, U010C and U029D.

So you have replaced the throttle pedal assembly, cleared the codes, and returned the P2121 trouble code.

It sounds like your original pedal sensor was not bad, and you may have a wiring issue.

You must follow the previously attached troubleshooting steps for this code in sequence.

The U010C and U029D codes are related to the loss of communication to the turbo actuator on the J1939 bus.

See the troubleshooting information attached for the U029D code.

Since you are deleted, you can disconnect NOx sensor #1, which may clear up the actuator communication issue.

See post #1 thread below for more details.

U010C Lost Communication With Turbo

 0 Comment(s)

[Corkey]

Is that pressure at idle or under load?

At idle, I have an average of 5500 psi, and under throttle, it spikes to 26k to 27k psi.

That's good.

It tosses out the theory that the CP3 pump and FCA are working correctly.

As Bob has stated, I believe that's going to be your fix bud!

 0 Comment(s)

[Muzzy]

Ensure you have good batteries and that your charging system works (terminals and grounds).

I have seen these engines throw random goofy codes when the modules don't have good voltage.

-Muzzy

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