Bent Valve Symtoms?

[Mrgene20]

2017 RAM 2500 6.7L Cummins Full Delete
RaceME Ultra W/ IGOTAC trans tuning
Stock 68RFE Trans
ARP 425 Head Studs
4" DP Back Exhaust

1st, I downloaded the tune and noticed how much nicer the truck runs and shifts now that the trans relearn is done.

Then I decided now the relearn is complete, and I can install the studs.

After checking the coolant tank with a combustion fume test kit, I followed up with the ARP studs and the 1-by-1 method.

I didn't have any fluid change color, so I figured the HG was still good.

I used a lot of ARPS lube on the fine thread, both sides of the washers, and the nut.

The final torque was 130, and when installing the rocker arms on #2 and #5 or #6 {I can't remember which one exactly}, the base plate and bolt gave me a bit of an issue.

I had minor issues signing up the threads for the bolt that holds the rocker down.

I did get them tightened down to spec, tho.

Next, I did the valve lash for the valves I was at.

When locking them down, it was a pain in the *** to get them to stay where you want them.

It was mainly in the rear, but I got it done and have been running the truck back and forth to work for a week.

Finally, I decided to pull it apart and check the torque, and I had them snapping on 120 ft-lbs.

All were the same, and the paint marks I marked barely moved ¹/¹ of a turn.

They decided they should be fine and just put everything back together.

Now, after the 1st valve adjustment, the truck ran so smoothly.

I was in love, but after doing this valve lash, I cut about 8" of the exhaust off to put on a 7" exhaust tip.

Boom, now everything is good and back together.

But wait, after starting it up and giving it a couple of revisions, I hear a clinking noise, and it's very slight.

I can hardly listen to it with loud exhaust, but I can tell it's there.

It sounds like it's coming from the #5 or #6 area on the driver's side.

Now, after having it running so smoothly after the valve lash adjustment and then having this noise, it's driving me crazy.

I have not driven the truck more than 10 miles to and from work, and it hasn't gotten any worse, but it hasn't gone away either.

I will go back in and try adjusting the valves again, check my pushrods to see if any are bent, and see if all the valve springs are the same height in the morning, but I wanted some onsite from more knowledgeable guys.

Could this be a bent valve?

I have not noticed any exhaust smoke, rough-running motor, missed fires, or power loss.

What other symptoms should I look for besides pulling the injectors using a bore scope and looking inside?

Sorry for the long post, but I hope I gave enough info for you guys to be able to help.

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[Mrgene20]

Valve adjustment is done.

Still, I hear clicking.

Using a screwdriver, I found the source is the fuel lines.

Checking at the CP3 sounds good, but starting right at the top left fuel line coming out and all the fuel lines going to head, I can hear the clicking well.

I'm stumped.

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[Mrgene20]

https://m.youtube.com/shorts/gfA59kjbsww

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[AK Bob]

See this thread, post #16 in particular.

https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...In-Motor/page2

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[AK Bob]

See this thread, post #16 in particular.

https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...In-Motor/page2

Valve adjustment is done.

Still, I hear clicking.

Using a screwdriver, I found the source is the fuel lines.

Checking at the CP3 sounds good, but starting right at the top left fuel line coming out and all the fuel lines going to head, I can hear the clicking well.

I'm stumped.

Did the rubber hoses on the injector lines eliminate or help with the sound?

Did you set the valve clearance to .010” on the intake and .020” on the exhaust?

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[Mrgene20]

I did the valves at .10 intake and .20 exhaust.

I still have the noise in the fuel line.

I have not put rubber hoses on the fuel lines yet.

I pushed down hard on the big rubber insulator covering the fuel lines, and the noise smoothed out slightly.

So, I will pull that out soon and try the rubber hoses next.

I will post back when I do. Hopefully that helps.

I do not have any power loss problems, and the truck seems to run just fine, so I'm assuming it's not a bent valve.

It makes me feel a little better.

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[AK Bob]

I wouldn’t bother with the rubber hoses if you have the factory isolator block installed.

My 2014 didn’t come equipped with the isolator block, if this was the case with yours it may have been beneficial for noise reduction.

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[Mrgene20]

Do you know what causes this metal ticking noise in the fuel lines?

Mine always had the isolator block.

It never made the noise before.

It's not noticeable like it is now.

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[AK Bob]

Do you know what causes this metal ticking noise in the fuel lines?

Mine always had the isolator block.

It never made the noise before.

It's not noticeable like it is now.

It's hard to tell for sure.

The noise could be transmitted through the fuel lines from the CP3 pump, an injector, or the valve train.

Oddly, this started right after adjusting the valve lash.

These Cummins are typically noisy engines with lots of harmonics.

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[Corkey]

The CP3 pump supplies the fuel rail with the desired value the injectors call for.

The fuel rail is completely hollow, except that on the back of the rail, the fuel rail sensor protrudes a little inside.

Each fuel line is also 100 percent hollow, allowing unrestricted fuel flow.

You might have a fuel line slightly rotated in a way that, due to normal vibration, could be touching the manifold slightly.

It could very well be a valve "intake or exhaust" that creates the sound on that particular cylinder more noticeable in the driver-side area.

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