Yeah, I figured it was leftover crap.
The dealership didn’t want to waste time and clean out.
Good possibility all that crap came out when you drained it.
Fingers crossed.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4
Yeah, I figured it was leftover crap.
The dealership didn’t want to waste time and clean out.
Good possibility all that crap came out when you drained it.
Fingers crossed.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4
2016 RAM 3500 4x4 Laramie Crew Cab ,G56
I would drive it, and if you start noticing anything different, take it apart.
Thankfully the magnet did its job, but that's piss poor on the part of the dealership if they left that in there.
I mean, you disassemble, clean, and rebuild, so that gets me as to why it's there.
Here is what I would do. Being as the trans seems to be working fine, remove all the debris you can and monitor it for more later. It could of easily been something in a pocket in the case (lets hope) and the magnet did its job, ie capturing it before the gears ingested it.
Now I know pulling drain plug to monitor it can be spendy drain and refill, but a neat trick is to create a vacuum on the fill port. This will allow you to remove the drain plug without draining the fluid, just do a magnet inspection.
Synchros are usually bronze, the main blocking ring as its called. But there is other parts to a synchro known as the inertia lock, this is the portion that keep it into gear under loads. As this wears, the shifter starts to dance as you apply or release loads. I'm sure you'd get a clash or a dancing shifter. But you stated it works fine.
Being as its working fine, lets hope debris was just left behind and monitor it. Hopefully you will just get the normal filings (looks like iron filings of metal fuzz) on the magnets, this is normal wear, same for a hypoid. Chunks are a no no.
Here is a simple design, one can be made from a T block. Need a spare fill plug, drill and tap a 1/4" NPT hole into it, put a right angle elbow with a barbed hose filling. Get a regulator for your air pressure so you can control the vacuum. Just enough to hold back your fluid. Its pretty neat how it works. It will pull air in from the drain plug and exit out vacuum device exhaust. So you can pull the drain plug and nothing comes out. Get cocky and order a new drain plug, then just exchange it with the new one quickly.
2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....
OK, it sounds like they didn't do a complete teardown, just replaced a bad part.
I bet they did leave it behind.
2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....
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