Coolant In Oil After Rebuild?

[Corkey]

The first being 10 ft-lbs. starting from the middle and going outwards.

The second time around you can go to 44 ft-lbs. and then to 88 ft-lbs. then finally to 130 ft-lbs. for each stud.

Be sure to go through each bolt during each step and work your way from the inside or middle caps to the outside or outwards bearing caps.

You probably already know, just adding information for you.

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[sootmaster]

Hello, by chance, check the push-in head freeze plugs.

You may have one with a hole or dislodged.

Noted some have tap and screw-in plugs for heads, as this is a common issue; I plan on doing this.

This could have happened with a new thermostat.

They plunge hard to keep the temperature from cold to hot as the coolant circulates in the coolant system.

It's just a Curious thing to check; I hope it's not Damaging your lower end.

That is not the way to start the New Year, UG.

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[sootmaster]

Hello, by chance, check the push-in head freeze plugs.

You may have one with a hole or dislodged.

Noted some have tap and screw-in plugs for heads, as this is a common issue; I plan on doing this.

This could have happened with a new thermostat.

They plunge hard to keep the temperature from cold to hot as the coolant circulates in the coolant system.

It's just a Curious thing to check; I hope it's not Damaging your lower end.

That is not the way to start the New Year, UG.

If you have it back together, I recommend a coolant pressure test and leave it with 16lb+ to see if it holds overnight.

Leaving the injectors out, turning over the engine, and seeing if coolant is expelled would be my cheapest and best way to pinpoint which cylinder has the issue.

Reuse all old stuff for testing, as it is not running anyway.

We do this in the Ford engine when coolant enters the cylinder and misses randomly, which is a good test for coolant test and when the level drops.

Hope helps.

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[sootmaster]

If you have it back together, I recommend a coolant pressure test and leave it with 16lb+ to see if it holds overnight.

Leaving the injectors out, turning over the engine, and seeing if coolant is expelled would be my cheapest and best way to pinpoint which cylinder has the issue.

Reuse all old stuff for testing, as it is not running anyway.

We do this in the Ford engine when coolant enters the cylinder and misses randomly, which is a good test for coolant test and when the level drops.

Hope helps.

Hi, my experiences when Coolant in Oil is most common is not combustion concern but low-pressure side.

Say head bolt where oil drains back to internal engine seeps and internal cracks cylinder to block sleeve crack or o-ring seal.

There are many possibilities, but spray everything and dry it, and then the pressure test should show what to track down.

I have left the oil drain off for the block and crank area issue, the upper valve train, and rockers off to trace the head and BORE scope Lifter area if the block might be cracked.

Unsure of who or how intensive your rebuild was?

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[rusty_shibox]

That's probably where the head gasket leak is, near those two cylinders.

I don't know if it could have torn or gotten damaged.

For peace of mind and assurance, remove the head, get it checked out, and I Would buy another head gasket to be safe.

From the gasket already being compressed, I wouldn't take the chance of reusing it just for the same scenario to happen; that's just me, though.

To your question, though, I strongly think that is why the oil is contaminated; it's bleeding through 7 & 8 with only #40 of torque.

You could try retorquing those after draining the oil and dropping the pan to clean it out %100, but on the off chance it damaged the head gasket, you might be doing it twice ??.

Yeah, that makes perfect sense.

However, I could bolt the head back on with the old gasket to verify my thinking.

I should be able to pressure test the cooling system (which I did not do before taking the engine apart), at least.

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[rusty_shibox]

The first being 10 ft-lbs. starting from the middle and going outwards.

The second time around you can go to 44 ft-lbs. and then to 88 ft-lbs. then finally to 130 ft-lbs. for each stud.

Be sure to go through each bolt during each step and work your way from the inside or middle caps to the outside or outwards bearing caps.

You probably already know, just adding information for you.

Appreciate the information dude!

Exactly how I have done it in the past.

This time, I won't forget two studs.

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[sootmaster]

Also, check the threads on the studs and nuts for bottoming out.

I have seen where a too-long stud in the wrong position causes the head not to be clamped when torqued; quick check and examine all studs to see if the wear line is near the bottom of the threaded portion while apart.

Lots of examining when apart takes time and bright light as you look over your engine.

Murphy's Law always GETS me, Uugg.

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[rusty_shibox]

Also, check the threads on the studs and nuts for bottoming out.

I have seen where a too-long stud in the wrong position causes the head not to be clamped when torqued; quick check and examine all studs to see if the wear line is near the bottom of the threaded portion while apart.

Lots of examining when apart takes time and bright light as you look over your engine.

Murphy's Law always GETS me, Uugg.

Murphy's Law is SOB! LOL

I see what you're saying about the thread engagements.

Added this step to my "Hey Dummy, did you check this?" notes.

Cheers brother!

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

I would thoroughly check my head for flatness and cracks if it were me.

Check the cylinder for any damage, too.

Can you drop a valve and not damage the cylinder?

Replace the headgasket with new torque in 2 or 3 steps.

Assuming the head and block are flat.

I don't see any reason they wouldn't be.

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