I using holidays to do some "weight reduction" on a '15 2500.
I purchased MM3 from Ray several months ago, and I plan to plug it in for the first time, turn the key to power on (not start), and download the stock file as soon as I finish under the hood and hook the battery back up. (I hope I'm doing this in the correct order)
I decided to do the GDP heater grid delete, intake, and ARP 425s while I'm under the hood and have everything apart.
There is no better time for a valve lashing, either.
My question is on the ARP 425's. I'm replacing them with a one-at-a-time method. I plan to do the torque sequence starting at 100 ft/lbs and working my way up to 125 ft/lbs.
I will probably set my wrench to 127 ft/lbs to cover any error tolerances in the wrench.
Question -
DO I NEED TO RE-TORQUE after a heat cycle if I'm not removing the head but installing these on an already compressed head gasket?
Ultimately, I'm only clamping it down tighter than it presently is.
Even if it lost a few ft/lbs, it should still be clamped much tighter than OEM.
Additional info:
151k miles on the 2015.
It's 60 degrees F outside.
Using a new Craftsman mechanical click style 30" torque wrench.
This truck tows around 7k lbs maybe eight times per year.
The rest of the year, it's a DD to work and back, and I drive it typically.
Not a racer, gunner, or stiff starter.
It will probably live on the 90hp tune (if best MPG) unless towing and never see the two higher tunes.
Any wisdom or insight is welcome!
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