MM3 Install - ARP 425?

[TRAUMWEBER]

I using holidays to do some "weight reduction" on a '15 2500.

I purchased MM3 from Ray several months ago, and I plan to plug it in for the first time, turn the key to power on (not start), and download the stock file as soon as I finish under the hood and hook the battery back up. (I hope I'm doing this in the correct order)

I decided to do the GDP heater grid delete, intake, and ARP 425s while I'm under the hood and have everything apart.

There is no better time for a valve lashing, either.

My question is on the ARP 425's. I'm replacing them with a one-at-a-time method. I plan to do the torque sequence starting at 100 ft/lbs and working my way up to 125 ft/lbs.

I will probably set my wrench to 127 ft/lbs to cover any error tolerances in the wrench.

Question - DO I NEED TO RE-TORQUE after a heat cycle if I'm not removing the head but installing these on an already compressed head gasket?

Ultimately, I'm only clamping it down tighter than it presently is.

Even if it lost a few ft/lbs, it should still be clamped much tighter than OEM.

Additional info:
151k miles on the 2015.
It's 60 degrees F outside.
Using a new Craftsman mechanical click style 30" torque wrench.

This truck tows around 7k lbs maybe eight times per year.

The rest of the year, it's a DD to work and back, and I drive it typically.

Not a racer, gunner, or stiff starter.

It will probably live on the 90hp tune (if best MPG) unless towing and never see the two higher tunes.

Any wisdom or insight is welcome!

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[Corkey]

From my experience, I had a few miles on the motor when I decided to put my 425s in, so to reassure myself, I pulled the head off to resurface it.

I didn't want to run into an issue after the installation where the gasket decided to blow out, and I wished I had taken the time to do it all at once, as everything is apart.

I still haven't done one for the re-torque question since the installation, but some folks will recommend doing it.

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[AK Bob]

I using holidays to do some "weight reduction" on a '15 2500.

I purchased MM3 from Ray several months ago, and I plan to plug it in for the first time, turn the key to power on (not start), and download the stock file as soon as I finish under the hood and hook the battery back up. (I hope I'm doing this in the correct order)

I decided to do the GDP heater grid delete, intake, and ARP 425s while I'm under the hood and have everything apart.

There is no better time for a valve lashing, either.

My question is on the ARP 425's. I'm replacing them with a one-at-a-time method. I plan to do the torque sequence starting at 100 ft/lbs and working my way up to 125 ft/lbs.

I will probably set my wrench to 127 ft/lbs to cover any error tolerances in the wrench.

Question - DO I NEED TO RE-TORQUE after a heat cycle if I'm not removing the head but installing these on an already compressed head gasket?

Ultimately, I'm only clamping it down tighter than it presently is.

Even if it lost a few ft/lbs, it should still be clamped much tighter than OEM.

Additional info:
151k miles on the 2015.
It's 60 degrees F outside.
Using a new Craftsman mechanical click style 30" torque wrench.

This truck tows around 7k lbs maybe eight times per year.

The rest of the year, it's a DD to work and back, and I drive it typically.

Not a racer, gunner, or stiff starter.

It will probably live on the 90hp tune (if best MPG) unless towing and never see the two higher tunes.

Any wisdom or insight is welcome!

I recommend making a backup copy of your tune and stock files.

When you flash your tune, ensure your batteries are fully charged and a maintainer is hooked up.

Ignition should be in the run position with the engine off.

When installing the grid heater delete make sure to check the torque on the injector crossover tubes, as they can be accidentally loosened when removing the injector lines.

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[timshooter40]

I installed head studs on mine a year ago.

I used exotic CP876, followed the sequence as stated in their instructions, ran a couple of heat cycles back and forth to work, and then pulled it in and re-torqued it.

Mine didn't move, and I did mine one at a time.

I know you said you bought ARP, but the exotics came with the exact instructions as my buddy's ARPs.

I helped him put in the same 425 you installed.

Just a note for reference: after torquing the last one, mark each one with a silver pin on the stud and nut.

If it backs off, you will notice the miss mark.

Some other helpful things: buy a bottle of lube as you will need more than what ARP sends. Be liberal with lube.

I took a piece of cardboard and drew the head stud pattern on it from the torq sequence instructions in a larger format and marked the spot where the stud is to be installed with a marker L or S as there are long and shorter studs to be installed it helped with grabbing the correct stud and then when installed it helped with torque sequence as it was much more significant to look at and follow sequence.

Be very careful with your injector harness.

Those tiny wires break easily when you put them back on hand tight, which is good enough.

Get a big piece of cardboard and some old towels your wife or girlfriend doesn't want in the house anymore. Use them as padding and put cardboard on top.

You can use that to lay on to get back to those very backstuds.

A few lessons learned that helped me.

I hope this helps.

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[WRA0351]

After removing the grid heater, check the torque (41 FT/LBS) on the injector fuel tube nuts at the cylinder head.

I didn't, and it gave me problems.

Thanks again, Bob, for the help!

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[TRAUMWEBER]

I installed head studs on mine a year ago.

I used exotic CP876, followed the sequence as stated in their instructions, ran a couple of heat cycles back and forth to work, and then pulled it in and re-torqued it.

Mine didn't move, and I did mine one at a time.

I know you said you bought ARP, but the exotics came with the exact instructions as my buddy's ARPs.

I helped him put in the same 425 you installed.

Just a note for reference: after torquing the last one, mark each one with a silver pin on the stud and nut.

If it backs off, you will notice the miss mark.

Some other helpful things: buy a bottle of lube as you will need more than what ARP sends. Be liberal with lube.

I took a piece of cardboard and drew the head stud pattern on it from the torq sequence instructions in a larger format and marked the spot where the stud is to be installed with a marker L or S as there are long and shorter studs to be installed it helped with grabbing the correct stud and then when installed it helped with torque sequence as it was much more significant to look at and follow sequence.

Be very careful with your injector harness.

Those tiny wires break easily when you put them back on hand tight, which is good enough.

Get a big piece of cardboard and some old towels your wife or girlfriend doesn't want in the house anymore. Use them as padding and put cardboard on top.

You can use that to lay on to get back to those very backstuds.

A few lessons learned that helped me.

I hope this helps.

Good info!

I torqued to the initial 100 ft-lbs.

Then, I plugged the block heater in for 7 hours, and the block got pretty warm.

I then unplugged it so it could chill to the ambient 39F tonight.

I plan to plug it back in early in the morning for another mini-heat cycle, and then I'll do the remaining torque sequences.

You may do it again a few times after the final torque before buttoning it up.

I've got other stuff on the truck I'm working on, so there's time to do it.

It's not getting to running temp, of course, and may do nothing, but it's something maybe.

Excellent idea to mark the studs.

Thanks!

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[TRAUMWEBER]

After removing the grid heater, check the torque (41 FT/LBS) on the injector fuel tube nuts at the cylinder head.

I didn't, and it gave me problems.

Thanks again, Bob, for the help!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't think to check those!

I still have the fuel lines off with blue tape over the tube nuts.

I'll give those a click at 41 before re-attaching fuel lines.

Thanks!

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[WRA0351]

How did everything turn out?

What is the difference between before and after?


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[TRAUMWEBER]

How did everything turn out?

What is the difference between before and after?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So far, all seems well.

There were a couple of minor bugs initially, but thanks to you guys here, they were short-lived.

The engine purrs like a well, like a smooth Cummins.

The valve adjustment did it good, and I'm certain, happily, it's not eating its own crap now.

The tunes seem great, but I haven't tried them all out or under load yet.

I'm running 60hp for starters and already appear to have a nearly three mpg gain on my daily nonsense last week, and instead of only ever using 1/2 of the accelerator pedal in the truck, it now only needs the first 1/4th.

If my math is correct, the MM3 will pay for itself by early 2025, if not sooner!

I may try 90hp for mileage in a couple of weeks and go with the best mpg gain as a daily.

It looks like it will weigh about 8k lbs for a 12-hour round trip at the end of this month so I can try out 30hp then.

I deleted the CCV and went back to OEM yesterday.

This cleared up the fumes I was experiencing in the cab and around the truck at idle.

I may throw an oil catch can in it and leave it routed OEM just before the turbo.

It is probably better to keep that negative pressure drawing on the crankcase.

There was some oily residue on the turbo and inter-cooler pipes when I checked, although not bad.

However, the key may be to keep that CCV filter changed more often, as you suggested.

It's a bit loud; I'm waiting for brown Santa to bring some brackets and clamps so the FTE 30" resonator can go in.

If that doesn't tone it down enough, may throw a straight-through muffler behind the resonator.

I don't mind a little sound or deep rumble, but as it is now, it is a little annoying—especially the drone.

All in all, it was a beast before.

It's a far meaner one now.

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[Jmiller8649]

I have had both the FTE resonator on a G56 truck and a straight muffler on a 68RFE truck, and I recommend the straight muffler.

It tones it down and does not cab drone while maintaining the straight pipe.

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