RaceME Ultra - Low Boost With Heavy Smoke?

[JonnyU]

Truck setup 2014 RAM 2500 6.7L with Bd diesel second GEN swap.

I am running a 364.5/80 turbo, stock, fuel injectors stock, CP3 pump, entirely deleted, full turbo back exhaust and BD diesel exhaust brake, RaceME Tuner, and tuned by DRD.

About six months ago, I put in the turbo kit for this truck and had it tuned.

The only thing that didn’t work was the exhaust brake.

It felt like it had a ton of power and ran pretty well.

About a month ago, I had my windshield replaced during the replacement.

The truck got wet because when they removed the windshield, it rained inside my truck.

The tuner screen went crazy.

After that, it says no SD card.

So, I feel like the truck has completely lost power since the tuner was damaged.

I’m working on getting a replacement at this time.

I thought my last setting would have been saved in the ECU.

The truck would not make more than 10 ps; I can’t tow my trailer because the EGT gets too high.

Could the tuner be fried to cause all this trouble, or am I looking at something else?

I ran the truck and checked for leaks around the turbo, but I could not find anything obvious.

The only thing I did find was an exhaust leak after the turbo.

I fixed it but I still do not make more than 10 psi at wide-open throttle.

The truck seems to roll smoke when I’m on the highway, adjusting my speed by 5 mph.

Thanks for your help in advance

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[AK Bob]

I would pressure test for air intake leaks after the turbo.

As you mentioned, the tunes are stored in the ECU, so with the damaged monitor removed you should still run fine.

Do you have any trouble codes?

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[JonnyU]

No codes.

Do you have a recommendation on how to perform the test?

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[JonnyU]

I still have the monitor plugged in.

I don’t know if that will be a difference.

Also, when I switch tunes, it doesn’t make any difference.

From what I see, actual and desired fuel pressures are very close.

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[Corkey]

Look at A\D on the vane position for the actuator.

With no changes on tunes, are you referring to just power levels?

If the vanes are sticking, this would cause the tunes to not be noticeable on power.

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[JonnyU]

Turbo actuator?

It’s a non-VGT.

I'm not sure if that’s what you’re referring to.

Yes, power levels are the same.

No difference in boost or smoke.

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[AK Bob]

I still have the monitor plugged in.

I don’t know if that will be a difference.

Also, when I switch tunes, it doesn’t make any difference.

From what I see, actual and desired fuel pressures are very close

No codes.

Do you have a recommendation on how to perform the test?

Try disconnecting the monitor since it’s not working or reading the SD card.

To check for leaks on the boost side, you need a tester similar to this one, attached or homemade.

Pressurize to 30 psi and check for leaks with soapy water.

IMG_0982.jpg

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[Corkey]

I'm an idiot and didn't look up to double-check the thread; my bad.

Here is what I might suggest.

Bob is on the right track; tunes are stored in the ECM\TCM, which, even if the monitor is going crazy and you see two green check boxes on the monitor, you should be good on that aspect.

If you found a leak somewhere, you likely have more coupler boots, stripped clamps, bad gaskets on the turbo flange or exhaust manifold, or bad seal on the BD 3-piece manifold where the two conjoin to the center hub".

Fuel looks suitable for the A\D at what, just idle?

Or did you unplug the cord off the pump and start her up?

If max rail pressure is close, I feel all checks out correctly.

Cold motor, soapy water in a spray bottle over intake manifold, exhaust manifold, intercooler pipes\boot, and flanges.

Once bubbles start to grow, you find a leak.

A small leak doesn't take much to diminish power, resulting in the motor working inefficiently and more complex and higher EGTs.

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[JonnyU]

I'm an idiot and didn't look up to double-check the thread; my bad.

Here is what I might suggest.

Bob is on the right track; tunes are stored in the ECM\TCM, which, even if the monitor is going crazy and you see two green check boxes on the monitor, you should be good on that aspect.

If you found a leak somewhere, you likely have more coupler boots, stripped clamps, bad gaskets on the turbo flange or exhaust manifold, or bad seal on the BD 3-piece manifold where the two conjoin to the center hub".

Fuel looks suitable for the A\D at what, just idle?

Or did you unplug the cord off the pump and start her up?

If max rail pressure is close, I feel all checks out correctly.

Cold motor, soapy water in a spray bottle over intake manifold, exhaust manifold, intercooler pipes\boot, and flanges.

Once bubbles start to grow, you find a leak.

A small leak doesn't take much to diminish power, resulting in the motor working inefficiently and more complex and higher EGTs.

I don't know how to check for the check marks.

I will post a pic of it.

Now, it's good at idle and WOT for fuel rail pressure.

Checking for leaks is what I have to do.

It's hard to see anything when the truck is running.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 0 Comment(s)

[JonnyU]

Try disconnecting the monitor since it’s not working or reading the SD card.

To check for leaks on the boost side, you need a tester similar to this one, attached or homemade.

Pressurize to 30 psi and check for leaks with soapy water.

Sounds good.

The attachment is not showing up.

Seems like the best way of checking for leaks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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