Track Bar Bushing - Is This OK?

[BrentM]

Ok, I was a welder and fabricator for years, and there appear to be two cracks in that photo.

One just outside the tempering zone on the second weld and another where the weld on the top is beginning to separate from the material.

Can this be confirmed?

This should be welded on the back side if possible, and another plate should be placed on the front side and welded along the edges for reinforcement.

Sent from my SM-G715U1 using Tapatalk

This is what I had to do on my 2017 after the bracket broke on the back and nearly cracked all the way through on the front.

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[Badger2078]

This is what I had to do on my 2017 after the bracket broke on the back and nearly cracked all the way through on the front.

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Hey man, that doesn't look half bad.

I guess we do what we have to do.

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[jgruberman]

I called FCA, and they said that the recall applies to 2500s up to the manufacturing date of July 29, 2014.

Mine states to be assembled on August 13, 2014, so it is just outside of the recall date.

It still seems too much of a coincidence not to apply to my truck, as well.

Maybe Bob has some info on this scenario if a recall has ever applied to a vehicle two weeks before the manufacture date?

It does seem cracked in a few places, and I don't want to drive it more than I need to and need to get this fixed.

Any thoughts on how to go about getting FCA to cover this?

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[AK Bob]

I called FCA, and they said that the recall applies to 2500s up to the manufacturing date of July 29, 2014.

Mine states to be assembled on August 13, 2014, so it is just outside of the recall date.

It still seems too much of a coincidence not to apply to my truck, as well.

Maybe Bob has some info on this scenario if a recall has ever applied to a vehicle two weeks before the manufacture date?

It does seem cracked in a few places, and I don't want to drive it more than I need to and need to get this fixed.

Any thoughts on how to go about getting FCA to cover this?

I would ask them to put their response in writing and tell them you have photos and are very concerned with your safety.

Ask them how you can appeal their decision.

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[Crshanta]

I would find a local welder and get it stitched up.

It is an easy fix in the current state and adds a plate.

Mess with getting it covered under warranty in parallel.

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[jgruberman]

I would ask them to put their response in writing and tell them you have photos and are very concerned with your safety.

Ask them how you can appeal their decision.

Unfortunately, FCA has outsourced its support, and I cannot reach an English-speaking person.

They are all stuck on the exact "Recalls are VIN specific, and yours does not have any other recalls" (I have three open now that I am already aware of)

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[AK Bob]

Unfortunately, FCA has outsourced its support, and I cannot reach an English-speaking person.

They are all stuck on the exact "Recalls are VIN specific, and yours does not have any other recalls" (I have three open now that I am already aware of)

Yes, I hear you; it seems like customer service, in general, is a thing of the past.

You may have to go with @Crshanta advice and find a local welder.

Depending on the cost and your patience, keep the receipts and submit a reimbursement request.

https://FCAgroup.my.site.com/Chrysle...sement-Request

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[Crshanta]

Worst case, 1k repair, but I suspect it can be done for $500 with all the guys in Texas and mobile welding rigs.

If you are feeling adventurous, pick up a flux core welder at harbor freight, a grinder, and some 1/4 or 3/8 gussets.

Practice on some scrap, watch a few YouTube university videos, pop off the track bar, and have at it.

Then, sell the tools; it might cost you a weekend and $200.

If you burn through, turn it down with a click, move faster down the joint, and keep the circle speed the same.

It might even look better than the factory welds.

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[jgruberman]

Worst case, 1k repair, but I suspect it can be done for $500 with all the guys in Texas and mobile welding rigs.

If you are feeling adventurous, pick up a flux core welder at harbor freight, a grinder, and some 1/4 or 3/8 gussets.

Practice on some scrap, watch a few YouTube university videos, pop off the track bar, and have at it.

Then, sell the tools; it might cost you a weekend and $200.

If you burn through, turn it down with a click, move faster down the joint, and keep the circle speed the same.

It might even look better than the factory welds.

You have no idea how long I've been wanting to weld, so I would 100% keep the flux core welder, but I don't know enough about welding and the adjustments and all that stuff to do it.

I have an excellent mobile welder that I've used, and he's done aluminum welding on my pontoon with solid welds; I trust his work.

I would still do it myself if I were confident that I'd do it successfully

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[jgruberman]

I am going to have a welder come tomorrow who is recommended by another welder that I very highly trust.

Is there anything "welder language-specific" I should tell this guy that's coming?

A type of metal it needs, something reinforcement-wise, etc.

Also, I have a Mopar track bar bracket kit from eBay, just in case.

Is that something I should try to have the guy weld in place as well?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155534136182

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