6.7L Cummins Billet Valve Cover Install?

[Muzzy]

My wife got me a billet valve cover for Christmas, and I finally installed it.

I have run into an issue with the CCV.

It has two vents, and one I have connected to a catch can, which is vented to the atmosphere.

The issue comes from filling the catch can with oil within a few miles. I had the same catch can on my stock valve cover without a problem.

The stock valve cover has two drains leading down to the plate where the old mechanical fuel pump would hook up behind where the PCM sits.



I see other guys just venting to atmosphere without any issues.

I was tempted to drill some ports and install some AN fittings on the side of the billet cover to allow draining to the factory lines.

How does everyone get around this?

There is no excessive blowby.

There is hardly any air that comes out at idle.

This only happens with my billet cover.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
-Muzzy

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[da9guy]

Did you ever resolve this?

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[da9guy]

My wife got me a billet valve cover for Christmas, and I finally installed it.

I have run into an issue with the CCV.

It has two vents, and one I have connected to a catch can, which is vented to the atmosphere.

The issue comes from filling the catch can with oil within a few miles. I had the same catch can on my stock valve cover without a problem.

The stock valve cover has two drains leading down to the plate where the old mechanical fuel pump would hook up behind where the PCM sits.

https://www.cumminsforum.com/cdn-cgi...es-png.998227/

I see other guys just venting to atmosphere without any issues.

I was tempted to drill some ports and install some AN fittings on the side of the billet cover to allow draining to the factory lines.

How does everyone get around this?

There is no excessive blowby.

There is hardly any air that comes out at idle.

This only happens with my billet cover.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
-Muzzy

Did you ever get this resolved?

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[Muzzy]

Yes, I did get this resolved.

I will try to get a write-up done later today with a couple of pictures.

-Muzzy

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[Muzzy]

The parts I used to get this working are:
-6AN nylon braid hose (oil/fuel compatible)
1 -6AN 90-degree hose end
1 -6AN 45-degree hose end
1 3/8” one-way valve
1 -6AN to 1/4" NPT Male 90 Degree Fitting
1 Male -6AN Bulkhead Fuel Cell Fitting Adapter
1 billet aluminum catch can kit (Amazon approx. $36)
1 billet aluminum Cummins Fuel Pump Block Off Plate

The problem all the aftermarket valve covers is they don’t provide for the drain back to the block like the factory setup does.

Crankcase pressure has to go somewhere, and with a turbo charged engine blowby, due to boost is a fact of life.

In a modified engine with a higher boost, you get higher crankcase pressure that needs to be evacuated.

That excess pressure will push oil out of the breather if it doesn’t have anywhere to go. Venting direct to the outside will just dump your oil on the ground, thus the need to have a drain back system.

The engineers at Cummins figured this out on the stock motor, which is why the valve cover has a drain.

I wanted to come up with a system that didn’t require me to drill a bunch of holes in my new billet valve cover.

So this is what I came up with: First, I modified the catch can by installing the male -6AN Bulkhead Fuel Cell Fitting Adapter in the bottom of the catch can bowl.

Used a ½ drill and honed out the hole to the fitting size with a die grinder using an aluminum burr bit.

Second, I removed the stock fuel pump plate. I then drilled a hole in the new billet fuel pump block off plate and threaded it with a ¼ NPT tap.

The -6AN to 1/4" NPT Male 90 Degree Fitting was installed in the block off plate (used RTV to seal threads).

The block off plate was then installed on the block.

Third, I repurposed the 3/8” one-way valve off the stock drain tubes.

Cut the nylon braided hose to length.

I installed the -6AN 90-degree hose end and -6AN 45-degree hose end on the -6AN hose.

About mid-way on the hose, I installed the one-way valve and cinched it down using some zip ties.

You can use hose clamps or get fancy and buy a -6AN one-way valve to install.

The breather has one inlet and two vents.

One on top and one that comes out the side next to the inlet.

You WILL need both.

The top I used the breather element that came with the catch can kit, and the side I just connected a hose that I ran down to the frame behind the wheel.

I mounted the catch can on the head with one of the open bolt holes next to the intake using the bracket that came with it and one of the many factory bolts I have in my leftovers bolt collection.

breathermod5.jpg

Breathermod4.jpg

Breathermod3.jpg

Breathermod2.jpg

Breathermod1.jpg

I hope this helps.

This should be included in a kit with these aluminum valve covers.

-Muzzy

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[Corkey]

I like this.

I see most people mounting the catch cans on the passenger-side firewall, but I like the forward mounting location.

Just for the ease of emptying or checking the levels.

Most of us have a lift installed, which tends to make another object drag out a "stool or step " from the garage.

Thanks for the write-up!

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[Muzzy]

With the drain installed in the catch can, there is no emptying it anymore.

It serves as a temporary accumulator of oil that drains back to the block.

Unless the drain line or one-way valve gets clogged, it should theoretically never need to be emptied.

-Muzzy

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[Mr. Goodbar]

Nice setup there and good write-up.

Can anyone explain how that much oil blows by and accumulates in the valve cover, warranting a need to drain it back into the block?

I have some experience with older diesels (pre-emissions DD14) that vent to the atmosphere and never need anything resembling a catch can.

They vent, and you can see the smoke after a hard run, but I don't quite understand what is happening under the valve cover that results in that much oil accumulation.

Excessive blow-by on older engines?

Super high boost?

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[J695]

I vent to the atmosphere and typically don't have anything come out.

If I get a drop of oil while working on the truck, towing, etc., when I run a catch can, I drain it at the oil change.

It would be about half full, but the catch can be tiny. I think it held a cup, so half a cup is an oil change, which is 100ml, not much.

I just stopped using it and went back to venting into the atmosphere.

One thing I will say is when I first got my truck, the CCV filter was caked, and I gutted it, and it has been running that way for 60k.

I've seen whole CCV filters make the seals on the engine weep.

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[Corkey]

Nice setup there and good write-up.

Can anyone explain how that much oil blows by and accumulates in the valve cover, warranting a need to drain it back into the block?

I have some experience with older diesels (pre-emissions DD14) that vent to the atmosphere and never need anything resembling a catch can.

They vent, and you can see the smoke after a hard run, but I don't quite understand what is happening under the valve cover that results in that much oil accumulation.

Excessive blow-by on older engines?

Super high boost?

Some companies will say if you're running under 500hp, A catch can isn't needed.

If you're over 500hp, you create a lot more crankcase pressure, which is where the can come in handy: it can catch the additional oil brought up through the additional pressure being generated.

When increasing power with the VGT setups, they strongly suggest doing the CCV delete and gutting out the valve cover gasket because stock VGT setups already have a high crankcase pressure.

If you don't, you'll end up blowing valve cover gaskets and possibly worse.

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