Sudden Multiple DTC's All At Once - (2012 RAM 2500 Cummins)

[Char-lay_on_your_six]

Hey everyone.

Please let me know if this is the wrong place for this.

This is my first post (other than intros), so any advice for a better post would be greatly appreciated.

Essentially, yesterday I ran an errand, and the first time the exhaust brake engaged and disengaged, the check engine light came on, and the EB no longer worked.

See the table below for the timeline and observations:

Date Noticed:	Observations:
A few weeks ago	Exhaust brake ok when downshifting to adjacent gears. If the gear downshifted to makes engine rev up too high, the exhaust brake "bounces". EB goes on and off rapidly, then when RPM's come down, the EB operates as intended then disengages at the expected RPM.
A few weeks ago	Airbag light has been on for a few weeks. No noticed issues other than the light. Ignored until have time to fix.
6/23/2023	After the exhaust brake engages and disengages for the first time of the drive, the check engine light comes on. EB no longer works at all. Can't force it to. Use raceme ultra to diagnose DTC's, which gave: P1593, P0593, P0591, P0581, P0579, P2509, U010C The truck still drives ok. I can feel/hear the turbo not spooling properly but can drive at speed.
6/24/2023	Checked fuses: M19 and M21 operate ok Checked relays: K5 and k10 seemingly operate ok when switched Checked exhaust brake actuation: Actuates when key on / engine off, or relay k10 installed No obvious melted wires or anything A little bit of grey stuff growing around passenger battery negative terminal Both battery voltage around 12v
6/24/2023	Go to AutoZone, have them scan truck. Computer says: P02E9 (Secondary DTC's: P2509, U010C, P0102) C1032 (I know what this is. Unrelated) C2205 (steering angle) C1240 (steering angle) (bold indicates matching w/ 6/23/23 codes) The computer suggested it's most likely the EGR valve, which does not exist on this truck.

Research into the codes thrown 6/23/23 yield the following:

DTC:	Possible Cause:
P1593	Faulty Speed Control Switch Speed Control Switch harness is open or shorted Speed Control Switch circuit poor electrical connection
P0593	Abnormal vehicle speeds with cruise control active Cruise control inoperative Cruise control light illuminated regardless of switch position Cannot set cruise control to desired speed
P0591	Abnormal vehicle speeds with cruise control active Cruise control inoperative Cruise control light illuminated regardless of switch position Cannot set cruise control to desired speed
P0581	Abnormal vehicle speeds with cruise control active Cruise control inoperative Cruise control light illuminated regardless of switch position Cannot set cruise control to desired speed
P0579	Abnormal vehicle speeds with cruise control active Cruise control inoperative Cruise control light illuminated regardless of switch position Cannot set cruise control to desired speed
P2509	Battery failure Poor connection at the batteries Alternator is either overcharging or undercharging Large voltage drop through loose or corroded cables Electrical clutch fan short to ground Bad connection at ECM Leaking diode Battery + positive shorted to ground or other circuits Open or return ground circuit
U010C	Open in the CAN bus + or - circuit Short to power or ground in either CAN bus circuit No power or ground to TSCM-A module Rarely - faulty control module

My current thoughts are:

• It's been raining a lot lately down here in FL, and I've had some leaks in the past.
• Could the EB actuator be going out? It still seems to get power and actuate.
• Autozone computer seemed to think the truck had an EGR.
• Should I return the truck to stock and reload the DRD tuning I'm using?
• Other people online seem to have an issue where the connectors corrode below the TIPM.
• My previous truck (2011 RAM 1500) had a bad TIPM, and I had a dealer replace the entire thing.
• My next step will be pulling it and looking at the connections.
• I planned on swapping a 2nd Gen turbo in the next year, a year and a half.

Do you have any insight or thoughts on what it could be?

I'm not well-versed in electrical work, so this is pretty daunting.

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[AK Bob]

Low battery voltage at startup will cause incorrect trouble codes.

First, I would inspect and clean the battery post connections and have the batteries load tested.

If either battery doesn’t pass the load test or doesn’t hold a charge, replace them both.

A fully charged battery should hold 12.6 Volts.

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[watersupply189]

Check your batteries.

Do a load test on each. Bad batteries will screw with the electronics.

If one is bad or weak, replace BOTH batteries with new ones.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[Char-lay_on_your_six]

I cleaned the terminals, noting that 3/4 had some corrosion.

I took a multimeter to them, and they both read 12.6v.

After that, I took it to Autozone and O'rileys, which found that the batteries, the starter, and the alternator were good.

While driving home, I noticed that the EB had begun working again, and the turbo was acting normally.

So once home, I cleared the DTCs and disconnected both batteries hoping that would "reset" the system.

Is it possible that the truck just ran into a glitch and decided to throw a bunch of codes?

Or is that not something that typically happens?

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[watersupply189]

I cleaned the terminals, noting that 3/4 had some corrosion.

I took a multimeter to them, and they both read 12.6v.

After that, I took it to Autozone and O'rileys, which found that the batteries, the starter, and the alternator were good.

While driving home, I noticed that the EB had begun working again, and the turbo was acting normally.

So once home, I cleared the DTCs and disconnected both batteries hoping that would "reset" the system.

Is it possible that the truck just ran into a glitch and decided to throw a bunch of codes?

Or is that not something that typically happens?

Thanks for the update.

The corrosion could have been your problem, and they had better connections after cleaning.

After disconnecting the batteries, combine the positive and negative terminals for about 30 minutes to discharge any power completely.

Please keep us updated on how things go.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[Corkey]

Different codes, but the same scenario you have.

The truck would have difficulty starting, and the lightning bolt would be on.

Two new batteries are less than 6mo old.

Everything looked clean, but the cross-over cable from the other battery had the slightest corrosion on the inside connection, causing the truck to only run on one battery.

This caused a lack of power to the electronics, which created several codes to pop up.

I cleaned everything and tightened everything; all my problems went away.

Both of my batteries' loads tested perfectly as well.

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[AK Bob]

Agree with all the above.

The corrosion on the terminals likely caused enough resistance to drop the voltage too low on initial startup.

These trucks are very sensitive to low battery voltage.

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[Char-lay_on_your_six]

Well, I plugged everything back in, started it up, and sure enough, all the same DTCs were back.

While running, I also tried using the cruise control since it was mentioned in some codes and does nothing.

Does not function.

So I re-disconnected the batteries and took the TIPM out.

I noted the following:

C130 connector spot in TIPM: Two pins have "crumbs" of corrosion. The picture shows the upper and lower left pins. It wasn't very much, and it wiped off quickly. There wasn't any visible corrosion in the connector itself. The associated wires were yellow / orange (upper left) and yellow / grey (lower left)	20230625_115059.jpg
There is a good amount of what I'm pretty sure is corrosion adjacent to connector C130. It seems to be coming out of a hole. I think this means there could be corrosion to the circuit boards inside the module. If I feel brave later, I might try to open it and look inside.	20230625_115118.jpg

I also pulled C105, which connects C130 to the turbo actuator, MAF sensor, and EGR, and found no signs of corrosion.

My next steps will be figuring out what the two corroded C130 pins are for and do a continuity test from the pin to whatever fuse/relay it goes to in the TIPM.

I believe that should rule in/out the TIPM being the issue.

I still do not know what I'm doing, but this minor issue has taught me much about how these electrical components work.

If anyone has electrical issues and is looking to get a hold of wiring diagrams, this website has been a pretty good help:

https://Mopar1973man.com/cummins/art...-diagram-r591/

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[AK Bob]

Well, I plugged everything back in, started it up, and sure enough, all the same DTCs were back.

While running, I also tried using the cruise control since it was mentioned in some codes and does nothing.

Does not function.

So I re-disconnected the batteries and took the TIPM out.

I noted the following:

C130 connector spot in TIPM: Two pins have "crumbs" of corrosion. The picture shows the upper and lower left pins. It wasn't very much, and it wiped off quickly. There wasn't any visible corrosion in the connector itself. The associated wires were yellow / orange (upper left) and yellow / grey (lower left)	20230625_115059.jpg
There is a good amount of what I'm pretty sure is corrosion adjacent to connector C130. It seems to be coming out of a hole. I think this means there could be corrosion to the circuit boards inside the module. If I feel brave later, I might try to open it and look inside.	20230625_115118.jpg

I also pulled C105, which connects C130 to the turbo actuator, MAF sensor, and EGR, and found no signs of corrosion.

My next steps will be figuring out what the two corroded C130 pins are for and do a continuity test from the pin to whatever fuse/relay it goes to in the TIPM.

I believe that should rule in/out the TIPM being the issue.

I still do not know what I'm doing, but this minor issue has taught me much about how these electrical components work.

If anyone has electrical issues and is looking to get a hold of wiring diagrams, this website has been a pretty good help:

https://Mopar1973man.com/cummins/art...-diagram-r591/

Thanks for the update, it looks like you are on the right track.

Please keep us posted.

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[Char-lay_on_your_six]

Well, everyone, this little project has turned into a pretty big ordeal, as usual.

It is not figured out yet, but I just wanted to take some time to describe the next steps I've taken and the events that have happened so far.

Note: this update doesn't have any substance to it about figuring this issue out.

The following is in the order it happened:

• Shortly after pulling my TIPM (my last post) and visually inspecting it, I pulled it out again and completely disassembled it. It was significantly easier than I anticipated, and I would not hesitate to do it again.
• I found more corrosion and dirt, but the amount was not too bad, and I did not see any obvious issues. I cleaned up the corrosion and debris, tested every relay and fuse, and reinstalled it.
• Codes were still there.
• Noticed the sunroof drain massively leaking and cleared out the drain to avoid more electrical issues.
• I was reading online and came across somebody saying, "When replacing the intermediate shaft, do not rotate the steering wheel".... Being the idiot I am, I remembered having the shaft out and spinning the wheel. So I replaced the clockspring on July 15, 2023, hoping that was the source of all my lights and codes. I didn't know it existed, but it was straightforward to replace, and my airbag light turned off! One win down.
• The cruise control was able to be turned on and off again after that. I couldn't set it still due to ABS described below.
• On the same day, I replaced the right rear ABS sensor I've ignored for about 2 years. The previous owner broke off the bolt and just glued it in. Also found my axle seal is leaking a bit. My C1032 code disappeared, but a C1035 code appeared. I figured at the time this was due to needing an ABS relearn.
• I read afterward that you must do a SAS relearn after replacing the clockspring. In my years of trying to figure stuff out, I have done enough to warrant a fancier scan tool, so I purchased an Autel MaxiPRO MP808BT PRO.
• Once it arrived yesterday, I scanned the truck, and just luckily, it gave me 18 codes. More than my old scan tools gave me and more than the car shops caught.
• One thing to note, I can not figure out how to do the ABS relearn, or the SAS relearn. The manual and the website say it has the capability, but it won't give me the option. That is pretty frustrating, considering the price.

Luckily for me, the truck still runs. I'm getting lower gas mileage due to the VGT not operating, but it got stuck in a decent position and feels almost natural.

Below is a picture of the principal codes I'm sorting through. Cut off are the principles I described above.

My thoughts on possible causes for the next round of diagnostics:

• Figure out how to relearn the SAS and ABS if possible. HOPEFULLY, that will eliminate the blue and yellow highlighted codes above.
• I still suspect the TIPM, given it's prone to issues for Chrysler.
• The red highlighted box is all new information to me. Given the radio is included, I thought the CANBUS system might be the culprit. More information is needed, though. I'm going to do a more thorough inspection of the wiring system. I replaced my head gasket a few months ago, so I thought I might have pinched or melted some wires.
• I'm not too worried about the HVAC codes. I feel those codes are exactly what they say, and I'll work on that later. I replaced both coils a few months ago, and getting the dash out wasn't too bad.
• I still suspect the VGT actuator for the original codes described in previous posts.

The story's moral is don't let your CELs and service lights sit, even if you know what (initially) caused them.

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