Sudden Multiple DTC's All At Once - (2012 RAM 2500 Cummins)

[Char-lay_on_your_six]

I didn't anticipate having another update this soon, but here we are.

Today I went to an empty parking lot to try and reset my abs without the confines of a neighborhood road.

It worked for a few minutes; then, the lights came back on.

Back home, I unplugged the left (the good one) and right (the bad one) rear abs sensors and tested them installed with a multimeter again.

20230723_144158.jpg Left rear abs sensor	20230723_144229.jpg Left rear abs sensor, reverse polarity
20230723_144249.jpg Right rear abs sensor	20230723_144308.jpg Right rear abs sensor, reverse polarity

So the right rear wheel abs sensor has significantly higher resistance and only seems to read resistance in one direction.

I removed the sensor from its hole and found my axle leaked inside the hole on the sensor.

20230723_150022.jpg

I wiped off the oil, reinstalled and went to the internet.

I found a lot of information saying a leaking axle seal can ruin the abs sensor.

So I think this is my ABS issue, and in the next few weeks, I will try and replace the inner and outer seals and the wheel bearings since I'm at around 170000 miles, and it hasn't been done.

I'll probably have to replace the abs sensor again too.

So far, I am considering the following:

https://torqueking.com/product/8367/...-2018-ram-srw/

https://torqueking.com/product/8362/...t-for-ram-srw/

Does anyone have experience with Torque King?

Trustworthy?

I've done many front hub bearings but never replaced wheel bearings on a solid axle.

Are the tools with the first link necessary?

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[AK Bob]

I didn't anticipate having another update this soon, but here we are.

Today I went to an empty parking lot to try and reset my abs without the confines of a neighborhood road.

It worked for a few minutes; then, the lights came back on.

Back home, I unplugged the left (the good one) and right (the bad one) rear abs sensors and tested them installed with a multimeter again.

20230723_144158.jpg Left rear abs sensor	20230723_144229.jpg Left rear abs sensor, reverse polarity
20230723_144249.jpg Right rear abs sensor	20230723_144308.jpg Right rear abs sensor, reverse polarity

So the right rear wheel abs sensor has significantly higher resistance and only seems to read resistance in one direction.

I removed the sensor from its hole and found my axle leaked inside the hole on the sensor.

20230723_150022.jpg

I wiped off the oil, reinstalled and went to the internet.

I found a lot of information saying a leaking axle seal can ruin the abs sensor.

So I think this is my ABS issue, and in the next few weeks, I will try and replace the inner and outer seals and the wheel bearings since I'm at around 170000 miles, and it hasn't been done.

I'll probably have to replace the abs sensor again too.

So far, I am considering the following:

https://torqueking.com/product/8367/...-2018-ram-srw/

https://torqueking.com/product/8362/...t-for-ram-srw/

Does anyone have experience with Torque King?

Trustworthy?

I've done many front hub bearings but never replaced wheel bearings on a solid axle.

Are the tools with the first link necessary?

No personal experience with Torqueking products, but I see they are using quality Timken bearings, and the other items are USA made.

While you could improvise with suitable adaptors that you may have available, I would recommend the kit with tools for ease of installation and to avoid damaging the bearing cups or seals.

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[Chrisn162001]

I bought the seal installer tool kit from torque king and have used them fairly often at work.

They have held up great with no issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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[Char-lay_on_your_six]

Thanks, guys; I ended up buying the kit with the tools.

Now to wait and get them installed as soon as they come in.

Of course, the fun can't stop there.

So naturally, yesterday, on a long drive to work, I noticed a brand new sound.

It turns out the driver-side front U-Joint has a decent amount of play.

The passenger side has a little too, but it isn't making noise, to my knowledge.

Now, with this issue, I'm getting quite suspicious.

Earlier this year, my front tires gave me a pretty good vibration, causing the death wobble for a few weeks.

They were worn unevenly, and around two months ago, I finally rotated them to the back.

I fixed stuff up front that was worn/damaged from the tires (track bar, damper, intermediate shaft).

Could the tires have damaged the U-Joints too?

Is that a possible cause of worn U-Joints?

I replaced both U-Joints with duralast Ujoints about 40K miles ago.

I'll probably try to find a better brand this time.

Could the unevenly worn vibrating tires that are now in the back also have caused my rear axle seal to leak, thus causing the ABS sensor issue (noted in the posts above)?

The vibration in the back is nowhere near as bad as when it was in the front and generally only manifests around 45 mph.

Stay on top of your tire rotations, everyone.

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[Char-lay_on_your_six]

The parts came in today, so I'll install them this weekend, assuming the rain holds out.

After a week of learning how to read and find wiring diagrams, I traced the code-related modules to a ripped ground strap.

Once replaced, P0579, P0581, P0591, and P0593 went away and have not returned so far.

Now I'm down to 9 DTCs out of the 18; U010C, U0431-00, B105D, B1058, C1240 (shows up twice), C2205, C1035, U0415.

The red font codes are the ones I'm 90% sure I know the solution to and will take care of this weekend.

Now I'm focused on U0431-00 (Active).

• Implausible data received from IPM (FCM/TIPM). Does 2012 have an FCM/IPM? Or are they both the same thing as the TIPM?
• Another description I see for U0431 (without the -00) is "Invalid Data Received From Body Control Module 'A'."
• The BCM is supposedly up in the dash on the driverside, but I didn't see anything that resembles it.

Could U0431-00 be related to the bad ABS sensor feeding it weird data?

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