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We've seen them last 50-200k miles.Originally Posted by bmccartney2004
We have the following options:
City Diesel Billet Actuator: $985.
Holset Reman Plug & Play (No Calibration Needed): $1200 plus $300 core.
Our in-house DDP VGT with City Diesel Billet Actuator: $3500 plus $500 core.
Wide variety of 2nd / 3rd gen swap kits: $2k+.
All your brand name VGT turbos: $3k-$4k; some have core charges, and some don't.
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2018 Ram 2500 4x4 G56
Romans 10:13
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When you say you've seen them last 50k-200k, is that OEM stock or all actuators?
Will the city diesel actuator have a similar lifespan to the OEM?
How will the DDP compare to my stock turbo? Longevity, performance, driveability, etc.
Will I need/want a retune to get the most out of it?
Assuming retune is advisable since the original tune have/will have added S&B cold air intake, banks monster ram, and boost tubes.
If I'm spending the money at DRD, what else should I plan to do while I'm at it to get the most bang for my buck?
Lastly, what are the pros/cons for the 2nd/3rd gen swap?
OEM.
Moves more air with comparable specs of other turbos capable of over 650hp.
City Diesel will last longer in most cases.
With the few CDA failures that we've seen, most are from improper installation and high mileage turbos (vein movement restriction).
Swap, you'll lose the exhaust brake unless you add a remote brake and will need a tune.
The only other items that would benefit from a retune would be if you dived into the fuel system.
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2018 Ram 2500 4x4 G56
Romans 10:13
See what we are up to on:
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Or Email me at:
joe@ddpmotorsports.com
www.ddpmotorsports.com
If I may jump in here, it sounds like your actuator fails electronically when it gets hot.
However, you should remove the actuator and check for any binding or damage on the turbo gear paw before ordering.
The most inexpensive fix would be simply replacing the actuator; no retuning is necessary.
I can vouch for the City Diesel actuator; it has a stronger motor and better electronics.
It will undoubtedly outlast the stock actuator.
The only negative is that the City Diesel actuator is incompatible with the DRD whistle tune.
The other more expensive option is a fixed turbo if you don’t need the exhaust brake.
If you go with a 2nd gen setup, you must replace the exhaust manifold and a retune.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
The exhaust brake comes in handy for as much as I tow.
I worry about the vanes on the turbo being sooted up, or even if they're not, how long will the new actuator last before the turbo itself is a problem?
It's my daily driver, so being down while I mess with the turbo and get stuff ordered, and waiting to get here is a concern!
I hate making expensive decisions without having a good understanding of the long-term implications.
IGOTACUMMINS thanked for this post
I have found the best way to prolong the life of your VGT turbo is to keep the exhaust brake on and use a good fuel additive.
I use Archoil AR6500 with every tank and run a 12oz bottle of AR6400-D cleaner every 3K-5K miles.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
IGOTACUMMINS thanked for this post
Are you deleted and tuned, and if not, would that influence your decision on sticking with VGT vs. swapping to fixed now?
IGOTACUMMINS thanked for this post
It all depends, in my opinion, on what you do most with the truck.
VGTs have their place, without a doubt.
Second-gen swaps eliminate the electrical side from the turbo.
Even with a 2g swap, you can install an inline Pac brake if you tow a bunch.
The VGT turbo is designed to give power in all ranges, especially down low.
The 2g flows better than the VGT but gives similar power but more in my point.
This, of course, depends on the turbo size on either route.
You may want to get head studs and ditch the OEM head bolts.
Stock injectors will spool a 64mm 400 series turbo with, of course, a revision.
I love my setup's sound and power delivery, but I miss the Exhaust brake.
It's up to you which route you take, but as stated, now is the time to make a big move you want the truck going.
Either route, we are here for any questions, bud.
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX
Yes, I am tuned and deleted.
I also tow heavy and enjoy the benefits of the exhaust brake.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
IGOTACUMMINS thanked for this post
I had the same issues with mine and decided that with the 150k + mikes on my truck, I’d be distraught to do the actuator and have the VGT go bad a year later.
I’m in the middle of a 3rd gen swap with an iron horn kit I got from DDP, and I have to say I can’t recommend them enough t great to work with and help me through my decisions!
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