Lift Pump Access Hole In Bed?

[toyota_mdt_tech]

OK, lift pump issues are a pain in the backside if you are on the road.

Good pal (one I did the monster RAM on with 2017) is stuck in Ontario, Oregon, with his 40-foot 5th wheel trailer and lift pump quit.

He filled his Titan 60-gallon tank up too, and he had AAA, but it was super inconvenient.

Thinking out loud here, has anyone ever installed an access hole in their bed?

And an even better question, does anyone make an access hole cover kit?

If I could find a thicker chunk of bed metal with the rolled parts that fit over the top of my existing, with a set of Riv nuts, screw in an access cover.

Round pan head torx, so sliding items in bed without snagging, etc.

This would make a roadside lift pump replacement a breeze.

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[Chrisn162001]

How far is he from where he needs to go?

He should be able to drive it without the lift pump and be completely fine; the CP3 sucks fuel.

Have him check the lift pump fuse for power on both sides pretty common to melt the full pump fuse area and spread the contacts.

I’ve replaced a bunch of fuse box’s that the owner was completely oblivious that their lift pump wasn’t coming on.


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[toyota_mdt_tech]

How far is he from where he needs to go?

He should be able to drive it without the lift pump and be completely fine; the CP3 sucks fuel.

Have him check the lift pump fuse for power on both sides pretty common to melt the full pump fuse area and spread the contacts.

I’ve replaced a bunch of fuse box’s that the owner was completely oblivious that their lift pump wasn’t coming on.

Thank you, I just relayed that info to him.

Good info on how the CP3 preserves itself.

Now they have replaced both filters so that it won't prime itself; I told him to open the water drain on the front and look for fuse damage, repair, and cycle key to see if fuel appears.

If not, blow some air into the tank, and seal around the neck with a rag till fuel appears.

Close off the water drain, and blow some more air to finish purging the front filter; he should be able to run the engine.

He is 6 miles from a nice RV campground.

I told him, he could safely drive the trailer to it, flat ground in down stuff.

I went to my Mitchell pro demand and sent him the picture of the fuse block and its location (space 70) 30A green one.

He is out walking dogs now; he will report back.

He is mountain time, so 6:30.

chucks_underhood_fuseblock.jpg

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[rsl0311usmc]

I’ve replaced a bunch of fuse box’s that the owner was completely oblivious that their lift pump wasn’t coming on.



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That's crazy did there trucks start normal and all with those customers never having any symptoms of something wrong?

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[Chrisn162001]

That's crazy did there trucks start normal and all with those customers never having any symptoms of something wrong?

Sometimes you will get a dtc under hard accel while towing heavy other than that, you really won’t notice.

A couple of years ago doing some test and tune runs with my race truck, I had a bad rocker switch for my lift pump.

This truck was a deadly consistent 5.90 1/8 mile truck set up for 5.90 index racing. I drove this truck 4 hrs to the race track and made 3 passes on it.

I only found out my lift pump wasn’t coming on was cause I was running 6.5 1/8 mile times.

I started checking logs cause I knew it should run 5.90s that’s when I found out the lift pump was not turning on hard-wired lift pump for the pass back to 5.90s

Also, remember Chevy didn’t run lift pumps on their Duramaxs from 2001 -2016 and ram a CP3 from 2001 - 2010.


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[rsl0311usmc]

Sometimes you will get a dtc under hard accel while towing heavy other than that, you really won’t notice.

A couple of years ago doing some test and tune runs with my race truck, I had a bad rocker switch for my lift pump.

This truck was a deadly consistent 5.90 1/8 mile truck set up for 5.90 index racing. I drove this truck 4 hrs to the race track and made 3 passes on it.

I only found out my lift pump wasn’t coming on was cause I was running 6.5 1/8 mile times.

I started checking logs cause I knew it should run 5.90s that’s when I found out the lift pump was not turning on hard-wired lift pump for the pass back to 5.90s

Also, remember Chevy didn’t run lift pumps on their Duramaxs from 2001 -2016 and ram a CP3 from 2001 - 2010.

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That's crazy.

Well, you had me checking my fuse just to see what it looked like.

You learn something new everyday thanks for the info.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

OK, he was fixed last night and took off this AM.

It appears he had an open ground at his fuel pump; not sure if it was a prior installer error that put in his 65-gallon tank.

I suspect he was running without a lift pump at all now.

He is towing a 40-foot 5th wheel; he stays in the right lane at 58 MPH MAX.

Tracking his via APRS , and he is in Utah now, just fueled up at Loves in Brigham City.

The shop did install a new fuel pump while it was out.

I have gathered from this that I won't hurt my CP3 if my lift pump quits, and if it does quit, I may never notice it.

Except maybe changing fuel filters, be unable to bleed the air out, in which case, blow a little compressed air into the tank sealing filler neck with a shop rag till fuel comes out of the water drain in the engine filter, then close off, little more air to fill engine fuel filter canister, and I am on my way.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

OK, I ordered a fuel pump access door panel kit.

Its a "Detroit Speed 080402 Fuel Pump Access Panel Kit Universal Application 9 x 9", so see it when it shows up.

It looks flat; I will weld in pieces to form it to fit the bed ripples, drill exploratory holes, and shine a light under neat to see how close I am to the center, then cut the hole and install the cover.

Fuel pump repair, testing, etc, will be a breeze from here forward.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

OK, I got the access panel.

I am not in any hurry to install it, but it's on hand.

I have to say, what a stout piece and quality unit.

It has a thick metal plate that covers bolts, too.

I want to open a hole in the bed if I do this to mine that matches the inside of the cover frame, then ideally, hammer down the bumps in the bed floor so the frame sets lower than the high spots.

Anyway, I have a few pictures, and the frame is 1/4" thick steel.

Screws are stainless button tops, so no snagging sheets of plywood, etc., as you slide it in.

fuelhatch1.jpg

fuelhatch2.jpg

fuelhatch3.jpg

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