That ff5814 fleetguard is what I run on the front conversion on my BMP setup.Originally Posted by AK Bob
An excellent filter, and I run the FS19683 on the rear one.
I prefer Fleetguard to the CAT filters.
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That ff5814 fleetguard is what I run on the front conversion on my BMP setup.
An excellent filter, and I run the FS19683 on the rear one.
I prefer Fleetguard to the CAT filters.
Decent looking alternator ripple, seeing 3 phases of full wave rectification.
Mopar's stock filter housing on the engine makes that nanonet; I called it a 5-micron, and it is a 3-micron.
I would feel comfortable with that unit in place as the last filter keeps my original filter assy in place, plus my added 25 microns will be a course filter to clean up the lumpy stuff.
Now my engine-mounted filter is pretty dark at 10K miles; I have pals with the two filters and changed them at the 15K mark; the engine filter was much cleaner, so a second filter works.
I dont want to increase the load.
As a "Toyota" dealer tech, 4.5 amps on the fuel pump is considered good/normal, so your 5.7 amps is a bit higher; the supply line is about the same size for each.
The 4.5 amp is the high-pressure pump for port injected gas engine; pressure is 30-40PSI based on engine load.
Our RAMS is only a lift pump. I am not sure about the specs on the lift pump pressure.
Nanonet from Genos, the part number is 68157291AA Fleetline makes the same unit, but it's $20 more.
An excellent primary filter for the big lumpy stuff and a secondary or final at the 3 microns will serve me well. I think the add-on extreme duty filters at 25 microns.
2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....
Today, I measured the in-tank fuel pump current draw with just the two stock filters installed and again with three filters installed.
The filters are at @72% life now, so the current is slightly higher than my previous measurement.
See attached screenshots.
Surprisingly the current only increased by 0.27 amps with the three filters.
I thought it would have been more, but I checked it several times with the same results.
I am relieved and no longer concerned about overloading or shortening the pump's life.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
Said this before, AK Bob is a real trooper. Man, you go to great lengths on these things to test and use good gear, too (O-scope).
More like a professor or a scientist.
Good info, so adding a primary 25-micron filter, then swapping over to the nanonet filter on the engine is my end goal, feeling comfortable about lift pump life.
Thanks for your extra homework, Bob.
2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....
Thanks for that, Bob.
I can now go forth on my conversion that was supposed to occur last year.
Too many life disruptions.
2021 Ram 3500 DRW, H.O., bypass oil filtration, bypass coolant filtration, S&B CAI, 4:10’s
2wd low loc kit.
Reacquired 2001 3500, 5.9 nv4500, dually cab and chassis, 5” straight pipe, edge juice w/attitude. Otherwise all stock…..for now.
Are you planning to skip changing the front filter as they talk about in the link since, in theory, it shouldn’t be filtering anything as it’s not as fine as the new filter you installed in the rear?
Or just keep changing it like normal going with better safe than sorry?
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I have been changing all the filters at the same time.
I am sure the under-hood filter could be replaced every other time as suggested, but I decided to replace it anyway.
Before switching to the Fleet Guard FF5814, I used the then-supplied CAT 1R-0750 filter.
After the first scheduled filter change, I took a photo of the under-hood filter and decided to replace it (see photo #1).
Since then, I have used the FF5814, and the front filter looks much better (see photo #2).
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
Thank you.
Just the info I was looking for; the front filter does look way better now.
Still, as expensive as everything is, I’m not sure I could talk myself into not changing the front filter at the scheduled times when you're talking about one filter vs. the outcome of sending dirty fuel through the delivery system.
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Yes, I agree they do also sell a front filter delete kit but still seem to recommend keeping it and running all three filters.
I find replacing the front filter a lot easier now with the aluminum cap instead of the stock plastic one.
https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...filter-housing
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
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