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Thread: RAM 2500 Valve Body Upgrade Advice?

  1. Top Of Page | #11
    NateB2316's Avatar

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    Re: RAM 2500 Valve Body Upgrade Advice?

    Quote Originally Posted by IndyRamMega View Post
    Yup.
    And it would be best to just run the 225 psi tune?

    Thanks again!


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  3. Top Of Page | #12
    ricky_bobby's Avatar

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    Re: RAM 2500 Valve Body Upgrade Advice?

    I haven't heard of different tune levels for psi, but if you tune with Ray, tell him Revmax specs for VB, and good to go.


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  5. Top Of Page | #13
    NateB2316's Avatar

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    Re: RAM 2500 Valve Body Upgrade Advice?

    So it has been about a week with the Revmax VB and 225 max LP tune included with the RaceME Ultra.

    I ran the tune, then performed the re-learn with Alpha OBD.

    I like the improved shifts; it used to get into gear so quickly that I would drive around in tow/haul mode because I hated it.

    That has significantly improved and seems to be getting better every day.

    I am enjoying driving this truck again!

    I do have a question about trans temps, and it used to warm up and stay right at 165.

    After the VB, deeper trans pan install (added about 2.5 quarts), and Mishimoto Thermo-bypass (I left the thermostat installed since I live in Washington State) on my first long drive, not towing, it warmed up as usual then throughout the 400-mile drive ticked down to 114.

    It will warm back up when I hit stop-and-go traffic but averages around 115-125.

    Granted, it was about 40 F OAT in some places; yesterday, it was 65 and ran around 125-135 in traffic.

    Is this a common experience for those who have done these mods?


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  7. Top Of Page | #14
    IndyRamMega's Avatar

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    Re: RAM 2500 Valve Body Upgrade Advice?

    Quote Originally Posted by NateB2316 View Post
    So it has been about a week with the Revmax VB and 225 max LP tune included with the RaceME Ultra.

    I ran the tune, then performed the re-learn with Alpha OBD.

    I like the improved shifts; it used to get into gear so quickly that I would drive around in tow/haul mode because I hated it.

    That has significantly improved and seems to be getting better every day.

    I am enjoying driving this truck again!

    I do have a question about trans temps, and it used to warm up and stay right at 165.

    After the VB, deeper trans pan install (added about 2.5 quarts), and Mishimoto Thermo-bypass (I left the thermostat installed since I live in Washington State) on my first long drive, not towing, it warmed up as usual then throughout the 400-mile drive ticked down to 114.

    It will warm back up when I hit stop-and-go traffic but averages around 115-125.

    Granted, it was about 40 F OAT in some places; yesterday, it was 65 and ran around 125-135 in traffic.

    Is this a common experience for those who have done these mods?
    Yes, out on the road it'll stay cooler.

    The only reason it rocketed up to 165 and stayed there is the thermostat in the thermal bypass block with that gone it flows all the time.

    IIRC they said anything above 80* was normal operating temp.

    Enjoy the cooler temps and the peace of mind it brings.

    On a side note @IGOTACUMMINS are you the grammar police or is there a program that re writes the posts to appear how they do?

    Asking for a friend, LOL!


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  9. Top Of Page | #15
    ricky_bobby's Avatar

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    Re: RAM 2500 Valve Body Upgrade Advice?

    I have the Dorman stock capacity pan with a drain plug and the Mishimoto bypass, and I also left the thermostat inside.

    Warmed up, it stays around 120 max driving around unloaded, if I am sitting in a stop and go it will go up to 160F, I was basically idling/crawling through a drive-thru safari a couple of weeks ago, and it went up, but as soon as I got back on the freeway it went down under 130

    For my uses, I didn't mind leaving the thermostat in, yes, I'm in the South, so I can probably take it out and forget it, and if I started towing heavy, I probably would.

    I'll see how the summer goes to decide whether I should take it out.

    It stays cooler regardless, with the Mishimoto in than the factory bypass.


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  11. Top Of Page | #16
    NateB2316's Avatar

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    Re: RAM 2500 Valve Body Upgrade Advice?

    Another question.

    One new development with the VB is increased line pressure which is concerning.

    I am noticing when i give around 40% throttle or higher when I need to (uphills, towing, etc.), it shifts hard from 3rd to 4th, sometimes the higher gears as well.

    If I am under 40%, it shifts smoothly.

    I was towing my 5th wheel today, and I could feel it slam into those gears upshifting.

    Is this something that I should be concerned about? Is this due to the increased line pressure?

    Also, I ran the Raceme transmission tune with a max of 225 LP.

    Something else I notice is when it shifts to 4th, I see it on display, and it feels like it shifted, then RPM will go up as I throttle up, and it feels like thats when it shifts and gets into gear.

    I'm sure i am not explaining it clearly, but maybe someone knows what I mean.

    Could it be the transmission tune?


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  13. Top Of Page | #17
    IndyRamMega's Avatar

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    Re: RAM 2500 Valve Body Upgrade Advice?

    Quote Originally Posted by NateB2316 View Post
    Another question.

    One new development with the VB is increased line pressure which is concerning.

    I am noticing when i give around 40% throttle or higher when I need to (uphills, towing, etc.), it shifts hard from 3rd to 4th, sometimes the higher gears as well.

    If I am under 40%, it shifts smoothly.

    I was towing my 5th wheel today, and I could feel it slam into those gears upshifting.

    Is this something that I should be concerned about? Is this due to the increased line pressure?

    Also, I ran the Raceme transmission tune with a max of 225 LP.

    Something else I notice is when it shifts to 4th, I see it on display, and it feels like it shifted, then RPM will go up as I throttle up, and it feels like thats when it shifts and gets into gear.

    I'm sure i am not explaining it clearly, but maybe someone knows what I mean.

    Could it be the transmission tune?
    It will shift more firmly with increased pressure; that's the point tho.

    It's not slipping your clutches and dilly-dallying around.

    It's a firm-to-the-point shift that creates less heat that way.

    As for the RPMs going higher than dropping.

    That is your torque converter unlocking and then re-locking.

    Are these hard shifts when you are in the middle of pulling a hill by any chance?


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  15. Top Of Page | #18
    NateB2316's Avatar

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    Re: RAM 2500 Valve Body Upgrade Advice?

    Quote Originally Posted by IndyRamMega View Post
    It will shift more firmly with increased pressure; that's the point tho.

    It's not slipping your clutches and dilly-dallying around.

    It's a firm-to-the-point shift that creates less heat that way.

    As for the RPMs going higher than dropping.

    That is your torque converter unlocking and then re-locking.

    Are these hard shifts when you are in the middle of pulling a hill by any chance?
    Indy, it happens if I get on it, but yes, I notice it a lot more uphill while towing for sure.

    Felt it slamming into each gear.

    But as I said, normal daily driving is smooth as butter.


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  17. Top Of Page | #19
    NateB2316's Avatar

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    Re: RAM 2500 Valve Body Upgrade Advice?

    Quote Originally Posted by NateB2316 View Post
    Indy, it happens if I get on it, but yes, I notice it a lot more uphill while towing for sure.

    Felt it slamming into each gear.

    But as I said, normal daily driving is smooth as butter.
    I will add I was running the AlphaOBD gauges for LP monitoring, and the LP is considerably higher when I throttle up, which could account for the bam, into gear feeling I get while towing or above 40-50% throttle.


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  19. Top Of Page | #20
    IndyRamMega's Avatar

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    Re: RAM 2500 Valve Body Upgrade Advice?

    Quote Originally Posted by NateB2316 View Post
    Indy, it happens if I get on it, but yes, I notice it a lot more uphill while towing for sure.

    Felt it slamming into each gear.

    But as I said, normal daily driving is smooth as butter.
    These 68s don't like having to downshift climbing a hill while towing, in my experience.

    As you found out, it'll do it, but it's definitely jerky AF.

    At the base of the hill, lock out the 6th gear to get the rpm's up to pull the hill.

    The shift should be nice and smooth since the engine won't pour all the torque into the tranny.


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