Tone Of Engine Changes - 2014 6.7L Cummins?

[watersupply189]

Unfortunately, that PCM is the wrong year, but thank you for contacting me.

If anyone else knows where I might find a good PCM.

Please let me know.

I am a little Leary about just getting a refurbished one from eBay.

Thank you
MikeAce

I would stay far away from eBay.

Hopefully, someone here can answer that question for you.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[AK Bob]

Unfortunately, that PCM is the wrong year, but thank you for contacting me.

If anyone else knows where I might find a good PCM.

Please let me know.

I am a little Leary about just getting a refurbished one from eBay.

Thank you
MikeAce

No personal experience with replacement PCMs.

Seen some bad reviews on Flagship One, so I would probably try All Computer Resources.

Whatever company you decide to go with, please keep us posted.

https://store.allcomputerresources.c...am2535610.html

I would try to hold on to your core until the replacement PCM is installed and the issue is fixed.

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[MikeAce]

I wish I had seen this sooner.

I spoke with a local diesel guy, and he said he uses FlagshipOne

My Fingers are crossed.

They have an excellent warranty and do not require the core to be returned.

I’ll let you all know how I make out.

Thanks,
MikeAce

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[Corkey]

Corkey, mind if I ask what made you go to a Second Gen swap?

Do you tow heavy?

Also, what symptoms were you experiencing?

My symptoms were mid to WOT; the truck would start to buck on me.

Fuel rail pressure relief was activated, and another code which I don't recall.

Plugged the fuel rail to help eliminate issues; once that plug opens and closes, that spring inside will lose its tension.

So that's why I plugged it instead of buying another OEM part.

I talked to the same guy I got the tunes from and sent him several data logs; he said I needed a new CP3 pump.

I got a 33% over CP3 and the same results; I was furious.

Before this, I threw 60hp injectors with new cross-over tubes and my lift pump.

Questioning if I did something wrong, but I quad-duple-checked everything.

I even tried a different fuel map to see a no-go change.

One thing about EFI Live is that "people that are not well known in the industry" often use a modified stock file as your first flash, which is not an actual Mopar CRYSTLAR file.

I think this was my whole issue from the get-go.

As you said, it's hard to find someone that knows what they are doing nowadays.

I stumbled on here and took a gamble yet again on someone I didn't know.

The best thing that has happened to my truck was finding this forum.

You get more than you realize, access to the doc, troubleshooting help, vendors, Bob's archives of PDF files, and a great family to be a part of.

I went with a 2G setup to get away from the actuator issues, and flow is better, resulting in cooler EGT'S.

I'm not saying anything bad about VGT setups; I certainly miss my exhaust brake.

Just do a lot of research on what your goals are for the rig.

If you need help, feel free to reach out.

The only dumb question is a question not asked.

We have a solid vendor that can assist you with even more in-depth questions or concerns.

@DDP

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[MikeAce]

Thank you.

I appreciate you taking the time to write out that post.

Ray said he thinks it’s the PCM.

I got more help today than in the past year dealing with the other guys.

The primary purpose of my build is towing.

I don’t want to lose my Exhaust brake.

I tow a lot of mountains on the weekends, and it helps so much compared to my 2nd Gen.

Granted, it’s like comparing Harbor freight to snap-on, but if you’ve had one, you know.

My main goal is to get her up and running well enough for our family trip to VA in June.

In the meanwhile, I am seriously considering new tuning.

After this last flash, my truck recently got very Smokey, and I don’t like it!

I’m not looking to leave clouds of smoke everywhere.

Those days are long gone.

Thanks a bunch,
You guys rock!

MikeAce

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[Corkey]

Stick with your VGT setup, and down the road, get a 64mm turbo like a fleece.

I had that and would recommend it for your purposes for towing or daily driving.

You won't need injectors or a bigger CP3.

I think you will be pretty happy with Ray's tuning.

Depending on your financial situation, you can get a single hp tune or up to 6.

Good tunes like the 12v or the more thought after one whistle with the VGT setups.

It tightens up the veins for a jet-like sound.

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[MikeAce]

I have a Stealth64 with a Steed Speed manifold, Mishimoto intercooler, WC Fab Boost tubes, a Banks grid heater and intake horn, ARP studs, and a Suncoast trans.

She’s a runner when she’s running right.

All I’m missing is some quality tunes.

In the future.

Thanks again.

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[Muzzy]

I went from using HP Tuners to EFI Live (HP Tuners is a long story great for me tuning my Hemi's, not so much for diesels).

You are 100% correct; you must get a stock file and flash it before making changes.

There are issues with some configuration changes being left in the PCM memory that can interfere with any tuning updates.

I encountered that problem and got an OEM file for my rig.

I flashed that, then the modified OS for the CSP5 switch.

Now I am on version 26 of my tuning.

One thing I have seen a few "inexperienced" tuners do is to eliminate the pilot injection event, which will make it sound like a 12 valve.

They often forget to adjust the various limiters, which will cause that bucking when fuel is cut off.

Pilot injection isn't really necessary for a race-only rig.

For street drivability, it makes a huge difference in sound and drive performance.

Ditto on the 2nd Gen swap.

-Muzzy

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[rsl0311usmc]

I went from using HP Tuners to EFI Live (HP Tuners is a long story great for me tuning my Hemi's, not so much for diesels).

You are 100% correct; you must get a stock file and flash it before making changes.

There are issues with some configuration changes being left in the PCM memory that can interfere with any tuning updates.

I encountered that problem and got an OEM file for my rig.

I flashed that, then the modified OS for the CSP5 switch.

Now I am on version 26 of my tuning.

One thing I have seen a few "inexperienced" tuners do is to eliminate the pilot injection event, which will make it sound like a 12 valve.

They often forget to adjust the various limiters, which will cause that bucking when fuel is cut off.

Pilot injection isn't really necessary for a race-only rig.

For street drivability, it makes a huge difference in sound and drive performance.

Ditto on the 2nd Gen swap.

-Muzzy

Do you run the 12 valve sound all the time being 2nd Gen swapped?

I ask because I used it a couple of times for sound when I had my stock VGT setup, but now that I am 2nd gen swapped, I haven't messed with it too much.

I have been wondering if there is any benefit to using it daily paired with DRD's tunes and what the benefits are other than the sound.

If it helps increase MPG or injector life, I can use it with my 120-hp daily tune.

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[Muzzy]

Do you run the 12 valve sound all the time being 2nd Gen swapped?

I ask because I used it a couple of times for sound when I had my stock VGT setup, but now that I am 2nd gen swapped, I haven't messed with it too much.

I have been wondering if there is any benefit to using it daily paired with DRD's tunes and what the benefits are other than the sound.

If it helps increase MPG or injector life, I can use it with my 120-hp daily tune.

No, I like mine purring like a kitten.

I pull pilot injection only above 2600 RPM when I am commanding more that 130 MM3 of fuel.

Like when I am doing a WOT pull.

Otherwise, I try to make it run as quiet as possible with my mods.

-Muzzy

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