I see the 1 WIF only, which is fine, I have dielectric grease, will cork off front and use rear only. (wished kit just plugged into existing WIF connector vs splicing, I will buy OE connector for plug-n-play and dielectric grease on front housing connector) I have just purchased the complete factory fuel filter with mounting head, heater, filter, WIF sensor etc, so with parts from the add on SDFK, ie wiring and hose fittings, and my welder, I will reconfigure the first kits mount to accommodate the 2013 and later filter housing
In the end @
AK Bob, when done, I will just have the exact set up you do except my rear filter be in a little different spot.
I am not sure if everyone knows it, but the rear filter has a nice fuel shut off when the filter is removed or just loosened, super slick set up. Loosen it a bit, fuel flow stops, drain canister at WIF drain.
For those of you with the 2013 and later units, your EVIC shows percentage (%) for fuel filter replacement, when you hit 0%, about how many miles is that? I should be able to greatly extend my filter change interval now running the course and fine. I will now use the Mopar nano net front filter too. I'm at 26 degrees outside, but will start on my mounting upgrade.
FUEL FILTER - NANONET - Mopar ('10-'24, 6.7L) - 68157291AA (below)
https://www.genosgarage.com/images/u...5904_popup.jpg
This is the unit I bought, all genuine Mopar (below)
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/A1MAA...FFM/s-l300.jpg
UPDATE, wont need to cut into factory WIF connector wire to splice in the SDFK wiring, I have a cheap aftermarket WIF sensor for the rear filter, (same connector as front ie D1571A) will cut off connector to plug and splice it into my SDFK harness so it just plugs into factory front WIF sensor to power up rear WIF sensor
Bookmarks