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Thread: C130 Connector Pin Part Numbers?

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    Jeeptony's Avatar

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    C130 Connector Pin Part Numbers?

    I'm looking for part numbers for replacement crimp pins used in the C130 connector of 2012.

    I need both male and female pins of both the small and large pins in both halves of that C130 connector.

    So it would be:
    -Small male pin part #
    -Small female pin part #

    -Large male pin part #
    -Large female pin part #

    Can anybody help me with these part numbers or a source to get them from?

    I need all the pins to completely repin both sides of a new C130 connector case I already have.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.

    2011 3500 SRW Laramie 4×4, 68RFE with billet valvebody. 6.7HO with S&B intake, 5" exhaust, ARP headstuds, Industrial Injection R1 injectors, Fass 165, RaceMe Ultra tuned by DRD, Bilstein shocks, reverse leveled on 285/65/18 Nitto G2s and Raceline wheels, traction bars, B&W gooseneck hitch, Kicker audio, Morimoto and GTR lighting, Uniden R7.

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    Permanent Vacation Chrisn162001's Avatar

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    Re: C130 Connector Pin Part Numbers?

    Contact https://www.connectorexperts.com


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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    toyota_mdt_tech's Avatar

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    Re: C130 Connector Pin Part Numbers?

    Mopar themselves sells connector plugs and all the pins.

    Spendy, but it is available.

    Connector Repair Kits

    2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....

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    toyota_mdt_tech's Avatar

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    Re: C130 Connector Pin Part Numbers?

    The C130 full repair kit for my 2010 may be different than yours.

    Full Repair Kit: 68080570AA

    184 bucks, but hey, better than a bunch of butt connectors.

    It comes with all new pins, but I'd ONLY replace pins that are needed.

    Or a broken connector block, take a picture of it for reference, de-pin one pin at a time, and transfer from one block to new if you need a new block.

    Just a heads up, will have the large-sized wires along with the smaller but it will be just one color/stripe.

    So keeping as many factory wires in place is good.

    I would also fill female pins with clear die electric grease to prevent corrosion later on too.

    2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....

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  9. Top Of Page | #5
    Jeeptony's Avatar

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    Re: C130 Connector Pin Part Numbers?

    Oddly enough, RAM uses the same C130 connector on a total 2019 parts truck I had in my backyard.

    Technically, it wouldn't be considered "C130" because it was part of the chassis harness, so different locations and wire colors are primarily distinct.

    However, the connector housing on both male and female sides is the same, which is all I needed.

    As a side note, PLEASE PLEASE learn how to properly release and disconnect whatever type of vehicle electrical connector you are working on before breaking it and turning it into an actual problem.

    The connectors on newer vehicles have gotten much more advanced than the old spade connectors crimped on a single wire, but there is a proper way.

    You shouldn't need anything more than a pocket screwdriver to release tangs if necessary.

    Still, if you are prying on stuff with a 10" flat blade screwdriver, you most likely aren't doing it the proper way intended by the manufacturer.

    That is just my opinion, though(venting over).

    2011 3500 SRW Laramie 4×4, 68RFE with billet valvebody. 6.7HO with S&B intake, 5" exhaust, ARP headstuds, Industrial Injection R1 injectors, Fass 165, RaceMe Ultra tuned by DRD, Bilstein shocks, reverse leveled on 285/65/18 Nitto G2s and Raceline wheels, traction bars, B&W gooseneck hitch, Kicker audio, Morimoto and GTR lighting, Uniden R7.

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