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Thread: Slight Difference Between Sway Bar Linkages

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    monkeh's Avatar

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    Slight Difference Between Sway Bar Linkages

    Ok, big deal as I live over the pond.

    Sway bar linkages were suspected of being bad pre-roadworthiness inspection, so I replaced them.

    The issue was what came out were fully threaded linkages.

    What I bought from R/Auto was a tapered fit.

    Naturally, these lasted all of 5 weeks before the bushings were trashed.

    Welsh roads do a lot to the suspension of any car.

    I took "Strata Florida" on, which was a hoot (Google it, a great off-road experience)

    What's the difference between the tapered and fully threaded sway bar links?

    Albeit, the surface area of contact of the linkage is only on the edge of the taper as opposed to full contact of a threaded portion of the link.

    What's the rundown on the bushes?

    This second set of tapered bushes has had a little "Squeeze" instead of a full retard graunch down.

    This is why I think the bushes have had it the first time around; these were MASHED!

    I believe in like for like, so incoming from rocks - a fully threaded MOOG Linkage with white bushes (ooo fancy).

    Should I have got away with tapered?

    Or stick with the fully threaded ARB links?

    These inspection stations like to see a car thats been prepped for inspection, not just chucked in.

    They overlook things like "battery loose," a failure, and "no steering lock."

    I needed to fix the rear foglight as rust had eaten the halogen housing away!

    Now the truck is 100% halogen-free.

    2006 5.9, K&N, smarty tuned com mod, 35x12.5 r20's, Stryker off road control arms, Ranch hand bumper, half black, half raptor lined. Custom twin exit 5" pipes, arp head studs.

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    monkeh's Avatar

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    Re: Slight Difference Between Sway Bar Linkages

    Nothing?

    The only thing I see with the knackered Linkages is the 4-5mm contact area.

    Threaded bits had a full circle with no taper to break when replaced.

    I could do with helpful info on not destroying the bushings.

    Torque info for them? I dont own a torque wrench; I go on snugness.

    I borrowed the torque wrench for the head studs; it's time to invest.

    Does anyone chime in with the torque settings?

    2006 5.9, K&N, smarty tuned com mod, 35x12.5 r20's, Stryker off road control arms, Ranch hand bumper, half black, half raptor lined. Custom twin exit 5" pipes, arp head studs.

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    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Re: Slight Difference Between Sway Bar Linkages

    Quote Originally Posted by monkeh View Post
    Nothing?

    The only thing I see with the knackered Linkages is the 4-5mm contact area.

    Threaded bits had a full circle with no taper to break when replaced.

    I could do with helpful info on not destroying the bushings.

    Torque info for them? I dont own a torque wrench; I go on snugness.

    I borrowed the torque wrench for the head studs; it's time to invest.

    Does anyone chime in with the torque settings?
    Found some useful information and torque specifications for your stabilizer bar in the 2006 RAM 2500 shop manual available in member resources.

    See sections 2-110, page 168, in the link below.

    https://www.igotacummins.com/manuals...e%20Manual.pdf

    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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  7. Top Of Page | #4
    monkeh's Avatar

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    Re: Slight Difference Between Sway Bar Linkages

    Perfect.

    Thank you! I've begun printing it out (works time )

    2006 5.9, K&N, smarty tuned com mod, 35x12.5 r20's, Stryker off road control arms, Ranch hand bumper, half black, half raptor lined. Custom twin exit 5" pipes, arp head studs.

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