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Thread: Just Ordered - 2018 RAM 3500 - What Should I Modify First?

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    Just Ordered - 2018 RAM 3500 - What Should I Modify First?

    Hi all, I just ordered a 2018 3500 Mega Cab with the Aisin and 28k miles on it.

    It's a big horn with auto-level rear suspension.

    I should have the truck in a couple of weeks, and I'd love advice on setting it up for my use case.

    I kept the last truck for 20yrs and may keep this as long as I want to get it dialed!

    I'll be towing an enclosed moto trailer primarily, and occasionally an equipment trailer with my skid loader (16k lbs total), and maybe a toy hauler in the future.

    I also do a fair bit of remote tent camping that requires substantial off-roading.

    My dirt bike spots can also require up to 40 miles of rough dirt road to get to the trail head.

    It will not be a daily driver (I have a diesel A6 for that).

    The use will be in CO and UT--lots of hills, snow, and thin air!

    Currently, I have to pass emissions every 2yrs.

    I'm thinking:
    - Suspension: (thuren king 3.0 front, 2.5 rear, track bar, sway bar. I will measure for spring height when I get the truck)

    - Wheels: Method HD 701 (18x9, 18mm offset)--open to ideas here!

    - Tires: leaning toward 37x12.50s but undecided. The extra clearance and squish of 37s vs. 35s would be nice on the rocky dirt roads/trails I frequent, but too much towing comprise? Also, I think 35s might let me keep a full-size spare in the stock location; 37s, I assume, means spare in the bed.

    - Re-gear: thinking 4:10s would cover 35-37" rubber nicely, but maybe 4.30s?

    - Tune: I don't want to stress the emissions by tuning with it intact. How much work would it be to flash a stock tune and re-install a DPF every 2yrs? I don't need huge power, but I will probably want more pep and response. I want to be able to avoid smoke (even if avoiding means I'm thoughtful about the use of the skinny pedal).

    - Reliability: Should I do anything with the grid heater? I still need to be able to start in really cold weather (it was -30 f at my house a little while ago). Anything else to get in front of?

    - Protection: rock sliders (maple off-road?), not sure what else.

    - Onboard Air: I'd love to find a place to mount a tank and arb twin or similar for filling tires, but I might throw a small gas compressor in the bed for big trips.


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  3. Top Of Page | #2
    Permanent Vacation Chrisn162001's Avatar

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    Just Ordered - 2018 RAM 3500 - What Should I Modify First?

    Suspension: Carli or Thuren, I would stay 2.5s; you don’t need 3.0s unless doing high speed off-road.

    Sliders: Maple or white knuckle, depending on where you are at shipping, can make a big difference in price between the two companies.


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  5. Top Of Page | #3

    Just Ordered - 2018 RAM 3500 - What Should I Modify First?

    Thanks!

    I'm in Colorado and will look into shipping options.


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    Just Ordered - 2018 RAM 3500 - What Should I Modify First?

    Here's a picture as it sits now.



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    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Just Ordered - 2018 RAM 3500 - What Should I Modify First?

    On the tuning, reinstalling the DPF and SCR and then returning to stock tune can be accomplished in one day.

    The time-consuming part is getting the emissions readiness monitors to reset.

    In some cases, it can take up to 1,700 miles.

    See post 50 in this thread.

    https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...ive-Cycle-Help

    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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  11. Top Of Page | #6

    Just Ordered - 2018 RAM 3500 - What Should I Modify First?

    The truck came in, and I just test-drove it.

    Overall pretty good, and I think I'll bring it home in a couple of days unless you all tell me I shouldn't!

    Are these hours relative to miles normal?

    Seems like a lot of idle time.

    29k miles, 900 hours, of which 242 are idle.

    The only other concern is the steering wheel alignment is off a little.

    The tires are new, so I can't tell if it's wearing anything funny.

    The ride was rough and jiggled/bounced after hitting cracks in the road, but it had 80psi in the tires, so normal there, I think.

    No vibration or indication of anything out of balance.

    I'll replace the shocks, springs, wheels, and tires anyway, so it does not matter too much!

    It's a 2018 Big Horn Megacab 3500 4x4 with all the options I'd want (HO Cummins, auto-level rear suspension, nav, heated seats, and wheel, 5th wheel prep, dual alts, etc.), 29k miles, $47k.

    Fair deal?



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  13. Top Of Page | #7
    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Just Ordered - 2018 RAM 3500 - What Should I Modify First?

    Yes, I would say the idle time is fine, and I believe you a getting a fair deal.

    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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  15. Top Of Page | #8

    Just Ordered - 2018 RAM 3500 - What Should I Modify First?

    Excellent, thanks so much for the info!

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  17. Top Of Page | #9

    Just Ordered - 2018 RAM 3500 - What Should I Modify First?

    I've been slow to get going on the truck, but it's home and seems great!

    I installed a nanny kill switch today to turn off traction control/stability control/abs, should it be helpful off-road or in deep snow.

    Also, set up a ready ramp for dirt bike hauling and picked up a B&W gooseneck hitch.

    Full Thuren suspension is on order too.

    I picked up some Method 17x9 +18mm wheels and am trying to get some 37s locally.


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  19. Top Of Page | #10
    Adar's Avatar

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    Just Ordered - 2018 RAM 3500 - What Should I Modify First?

    Quote Originally Posted by BikePilot View Post

    - Tires: leaning toward 37x12.50s but undecided. The extra clearance and squish of 37s vs. 35s would be nice on the rocky dirt roads/trails I frequent, but too much towing comprise? Also, I think 35s might let me keep a full-size spare in the stock location; 37s, I assume, means spare in the bed.

    - Re-gear: thinking 4:10s would cover 35-37" rubber nicely, but maybe 4.30s?

    - Reliability: Should I do anything with the grid heater? I still need to be able to start in really cold weather (it was -30 f at my house a little while ago). Anything else to get in front of?
    I'm not sure what weight trailer you pull, but 37" tires on 18" rims might be more sidewall than you're comfortable with towing heavy.

    I run a 35" tire, but they are on a 20" rim; I have run a 35" tire on an 18" rim, and I wouldn't want any more sidewall for my setup, just my opinion.

    Not that you can't tow with a 37" tire.

    I'm sure some people tow heavy with the '40s, just not me.

    I switched from my stock to 3.42 gears and put 4.10 gears in.

    I like them with the 35" tires; if I had the 3.73's from the factory, I definitely wouldn't have switched, but I didn't like the 3.42, especially with the 35" tires.

    I wouldn't suggest deleting your grid heater if you live in a cold climate.

    Just grab your heater bolt and wiggle it every oil change, and if you're worried about it, change the bolt out every 50-75k miles.

    It's cheap and doesn't take very long.

    Just my 2 cents.

    2017) 2500 6.7 Stockish..... just a tune, sticks and charger
    2004) 2500 5.9 1098whp..... Nothing Stock

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