Front Driveshaft To Diff T30 Torx Bolts Replaced With Hex

[toyota_mdt_tech]

OK, I have seen those goofy torxs and never liked them, so replace them all today with new black oxide 10.9 grade 8X1.25X30mm flange bolts (like a built-in washer) and with some blue Loctite, done.

I bought it new, only 51K, never touched, and they came out easier than I like to see.

So for those out there, check your torque or replace them.

Mine had Loctite on them from the factory, but all wound right out as it didn't have Loctite, and they were not that tight.

If that front shaft falls off, expect to buy a new T-case and transmission, as it will dig into the road and bust T-case away from the transmission, so watch your u-joints too.

I have the free wheeling hubs, so mine wasn't coming loose, but one more issue was resolved.

M8-1.25x30 Metric Class 10.9 Hex Flange Bolts Frame Cap Screws Phos & Oil



While I was under my truck, I coated all the ends of the transfer case bolts with copper anti-seize.

Road salt (we dont hardly use salt here), but it corrodes those bolts, and they all bust if you ever take it apart. I wound out my shift actuator bolts and copper anti-seized those too.

And with all battery connection issues, as long as my copper anti-seize was out, I installed it on all engine room ground wire mounting points and the frame one too.

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[Chrisn162001]

I wish the ones I’ve worked on were like that.

I’ve broken many snap-on torx sockets on those bolts and never seen one even remotely loose.

I always replace them with hex heads, also.


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[toyota_mdt_tech]

I wish the ones I’ve worked on were like that.

I’ve broken many snap-on torx sockets on those bolts and never seen one even remotely loose.

I always replace them with hex heads, also.


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I did use a propane torch to warm up the first one, which wound out with ease, so skipped it on the second one, and it was just as easy.

I used to keep this T40 Torx socket in my special toolbox with my fuel filter socket etc., but no more; it uses 13mm hex now.

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