2013 RAM Cummins Turbo Actuator Fluid Drip?

[SalmonKiller]

I noticed a coolant leak on my turbo actuator while putting in my new ball joints.

I wiped up the coolant and drove my truck all day Saturday making several stops around town.

Every time I got out of the truck, I looked for the leak, and there was no sign of it; fast forward, and the truck has been parked for five days, and on the 5th day in a row of checking for the leaking, one has finally formed.

Should I replace the seals in the actuator?

I Found a few u-tube videos on replacing the actuator, and it doesn’t look too hard.

My truck is 2013, so the access is more accessible than later models with the different strut/spring configuration…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 0 Comment(s)

[AK Bob]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...05dee6c605.jpg

I noticed a coolant leak on my turbo actuator while putting in my new ball joints.

I wiped up the coolant and drove my truck all day Saturday making several stops around town.

Every time I got out of the truck, I looked for the leak, and there was no sign of it; fast forward, and the truck has been parked for five days, and on the 5th day in a row of checking for the leaking, one has finally formed.

Should I replace the seals in the actuator?

I Found a few u-tube videos on replacing the actuator, and it doesn’t look too hard.

My truck is 2013, so the access is more accessible than later models with the different strut/spring configuration…

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had the same leak a few years ago and was also throwing trouble code P226C (Turbo Boost Control A Slow Response).

I replaced my actuator with the one from City Diesel, and no problems or trouble codes since.

If you are not receiving any turbo-related trouble codes, you could just replace the two “O” ring-style gaskets.

 0 Comment(s)

[SalmonKiller]

I had the same leak a few years ago and was also throwing trouble code P226C (Turbo Boost Control A Slow Response).

I replaced my actuator with the one from City Diesel, and no problems or trouble codes since.

If you are not receiving any turbo-related trouble codes, you could just replace the two “O” ring-style gaskets.

If you are not receiving any turbo-related trouble codes you could just replace the two “O” ring-style gaskets.

No codes.

EB works like a champ and turbo spools up fine.

If I drain the coolant, replace the gaskets do I need to have this actuator recalibrated?

What if I keep the actuator plug while replace the gaskets??

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 0 Comment(s)

[AK Bob]

No codes.

EB works like a champ, and the turbo spools up fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You should be good to go with just the turbo/actuator gasket kit.

You will need a 5mm Allen wrench or bit.

See attached photo and link below.

Be careful not to move the gears inside the actuator or gear paw on the turbo.

If either is moved, you will need to recalibrate the actuator.

https://www.igotacummins.com/threads/19727-Coolant-Leak

CFB9A063-1BE1-4632-B231-1C9A7A592415.jpg

 0 Comment(s)

[SalmonKiller]

Can I unplug the actuator?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 0 Comment(s)

[AK Bob]

Can I unplug the actuator?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When you go to remove the actuator, you can unplug it but don’t turn the ignition on or cycle the key.

If you need to recalibrate, purchasing AlfaOBD software and an MXPlus Bluetooth dongle is the cheapest option.

 0 Comment(s)

[SalmonKiller]

Little update.

Found the leak while the truck was warming up with EB on and high idle I found air/liquid bubbling at this arrow.

Don’t mind the greasy/colored-up area near the bolts.

I sprayed some PB blaster on the bolts in preparation for removal, and it got cooked on.

 0 Comment(s)

[AK Bob]

Little update.

Found the leak while the truck was warming up with EB on and high idle I found air/liquid bubbling at this arrow.

Don’t mind the greasy/colored-up area near the bolts.

I sprayed some PB blaster on the bolts in preparation for removal, and it got cooked on.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ac73ea0621.jpg

This is good news, the upper actuator chamber is where the coolant circulates.

You don’t want any coolant in the lower chamber as it will get past the gears and onto the actuator circuit board.

Mine did get a little coolant on the circuit board causing the trouble code.

Replace both “O” ring style gaskets anyway.

 0 Comment(s)

[SalmonKiller]

I just finished up.

I cleaned up everything pretty, replaced the gaskets, and refilled the coolant.

Zero issues and no CEL, and the total time was about 3 hours to install.

The coolant never made it to the gears.

Thank goodness!!






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 0 Comment(s)