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While my truck was idling this morning, I heard a loud whoosh sound and came out to see the truck stalled and, green fluid around the passenger headlight, the AC line that bolts into the top of the condenser blew off.
Assuming the bolt must have backed out, I couldn't find it.
Can I bolt the line back on and recharge the system with freon, or should I add a couple of oz of PAG oil since I lost some?
2010 6.7 (diet version) MM3, 6" lift, 22x14 with 37x13.50
2001 5.9 24v
-4" exhaust
-studded
-Quadzilla Adrenaline
IGOTACUMMINS thanked for this post
I spend the $$$ on the tools and have done my a/c for many years.
With the sealed system being unsealed, it would be best to "cook" the system to rid it of any water that may have entered the lines, then add the recommended amount of oil and freon.
You would need a vacuum pump designed for automotive a/c systems to purge the water and a gauge set if you do it yourself.
Water in the system can cause issues by freezing up in the lines or turning to steam, causing unwanted pressures.
Unless you want the tools, it's best to have a reliable tech do it.
2024 Ram 2500 Tradesman 6.4l Hemi
2021 Charger GT AWD Triple Nickel/Black
Aboshan is correct; you will need to evacuate the system with a vacuum pump and possibly add a little oil (don’t go crazy).
Small amounts of oil make a huge spot) and recharge.
Parts stores will rent/loan you the pump and gauge.
The evacuation boils off any moisture in the system.
Not hard at all.
2021 Ram 3500 DRW, H.O., bypass oil filtration, bypass coolant filtration, S&B CAI, 4:10’s
2wd low loc kit.
Reacquired 2001 3500, 5.9 nv4500, dually cab and chassis, 5” straight pipe, edge juice w/attitude. Otherwise all stock…..for now.
Agreeing with the recommendations above, you will need to evacuate the system after repairing the leak.Originally Posted by Bs702
I checked on Mitchell1, and they recommend adding one fluid ounce of ND-8 PAG oil.
See attached information; unfortunately, Mitchel would not allow copies, so you must print out the PDF screenshot.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
If it came out that fast, it pulled lots of oil with it.
Add some oil; a little extra isn't going to hurt; that green is dyed with oil.
The refrigerant boiled off, so it left oil behind.
Someone had been working on it before if it had dye in it.
Look for a condenser issue; the line shouldn't come off unless it was damaged; collision repair prior?
It's got air in it, the system needs to be fully evacuated, and it's gotten moisture in it by now; evac for about 30 minutes.
Get it sealed back up and charged.
2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....
It's been a while since I have been on, but the line that blew off had the wrong bolt, and the threads were not grabbing much in the tapped condenser hole.
I bolted it back up, hooked it up to an AC machine at my works equipment shop, vacuumed the system, recharged it with Freon, and pumped some oil in.
Has worked fine since then.
Appreciate the replies
2010 6.7 (diet version) MM3, 6" lift, 22x14 with 37x13.50
2001 5.9 24v
-4" exhaust
-studded
-Quadzilla Adrenaline
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