Cold Start With Low Battery Issues?

[AK Bob]

I thought I would post this recent experience as it may help others.

I installed two new batteries on 4/4/2019 from Batteries Plus X2 Power AGM 94R 840 CCA 81 AH and no issues until three days ago.

My truck is always parked outside; when 20*F or colder, I plug my vehicle in on a timer with a block heater and 10 amp battery tender for approximately 4 hours before starting.

The truck sat parked for two days, not plugged in and the daytime high temperatures are 20*F with 10* F lows.

Auto started with a remote, ran, and warmed up for about 10 minutes, then shut down independently.

I went out to check, placed the push button in the run position engine check light on the instrument panel was blank, then flashed up “Service Fuel Filters” and then “Service Trailer Brake System” and back to a blank display.

I started the truck, idling fine, but there was no dash display, just a check engine light.

I checked for trouble codes with MM3, but none were present.

I hooked up the Autel scan tool and found and cleared the following trouble codes.

TCM (Transmission Control Module) U1111-00 Lost odometer reading, PTS(Parktronics) U0423-00 Implausible data received from cluster/CCN and ITBM (Integrated Trailer Brake Module) U0423-00.

I cleared the codes and went about my day; the truck ran fine, codes didn’t return.

The next day I had the truck plugged in on the timer and performed the same remote start procedure with no issues or trouble codes.

I determined the issue was caused by low battery voltage on startup.

Performed a parasitic drain test and found that MM3 connected 138 MA draw, with MM3 disconnected 13 MA draw.

The MM3 monitor draws 125 MA, which is still not a huge draw but certainly not helping.

I am now questioning the condition of my 3 1/2-year-old batteries.

Anyway, I thought some might find this interesting, and I will be plugging in from now on until the low temperature is above 20*F.

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[watersupply189]

I also have the same batteries in mine and purchased them from battery plus.

I would take them back to battery plus.

They should have a 5-year warranty on them.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[AK Bob]

I also have the same batteries in mine and purchased them from battery plus.

I would take them back to battery plus.

They should have a 5-year warranty on them.

2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

Thanks; I will stop by and check with them.

The problem is they hire a bunch of kids that don’t know what they are doing, and unless the battery is dead, they want to blame parasitic draw or anything but the battery.

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[watersupply189]

Thanks; I will stop by and check with them.

The problem is they hire a bunch of kids that don’t know what they are doing, and unless the battery is dead, they want to blame parasitic draw or anything but the battery.

True, but they would have to prove a parasitic draw, and I doubt they would.

Most of them don’t even know how to change a battery. LOL


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

Bob, I have a very similar problem, almost exactly what you were having; same deal, the dash goes dark, all the warnings, my lights even would flash on and off sometimes along with my wipers because of the wiper settings in EVIC when wipers on, headlights on too.

I had a body ground issue in my IHS CAN circuit; one of the components had poor ground, which was intermittent.

First, check batteries and grounds as we have a known poor ground on the left frame horn on the driver's side in front of the LH wheel.

My final conclusion was a ground on the inside kick panels; it sounds like all your IHS CAN issues and the lost comms code are showing up.

Pull covers off on RH and LH kick panels; there is a rubber sound-deadening mat, lift it up a little, and you will see a ground bolt (10MM) and each side; this was where my issue was.

It was clean and dry, with no corrosion, but I was able to tighten them down a bit and never had an issue again.

It was intermittent, which made it tough to locate.

I would lose my power windows, mirrors, and door locks.

The rear windows still worked, and the gas gauge dropped to empty, TPMS warning, etc.

The IHS is the internal high-speed CAN; you have about 5 CAN systems and a few LINS; I know you have a CAN and a CAN2 for engine control; IHS runs a combo meter, so this is where all the warning lamps are, and when it goes down, all goes nuts.

Anyway, good luck; intermittent issues can be tough; this is where a nice scope to see waveforms for the CAN system comes in handy; I posted up the one I got when chasing this issue down.

We have a STAR connector where you can unplug branches from the CAN, and when the offending one is disconnected, the system returns online; it's a bunch of small 2-pin connectors in a block, LH side of the dash area.

I think this was made to allow techs easy diagnostics.

Location of STAR connector on a 2019, maybe the same area, never mind the Neanderthal arm, it is not me; if it were, I'd shave them.

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[AK Bob]

Bob, I have a very similar problem, almost exactly what you were having; same deal, the dash goes dark, all the warnings, my lights even would flash on and off sometimes along with my wipers because of the wiper settings in EVIC when wipers on, headlights on too.

I had a body ground issue in my IHS CAN circuit; one of the components had poor ground, which was intermittent.

First, check batteries and grounds as we have a known poor ground on the left frame horn on the driver's side in front of the LH wheel.

My final conclusion was a ground on the inside kick panels; it sounds like all your IHS CAN issues and the lost comms code are showing up.

Pull covers off on RH and LH kick panels; there is a rubber sound-deadening mat, lift it up a little, and you will see a ground bolt (10MM) and each side; this was where my issue was.

It was clean and dry, with no corrosion, but I was able to tighten them down a bit and never had an issue again.

It was intermittent, which made it tough to locate.

I would lose my power windows, mirrors, and door locks.

The rear windows still worked, and the gas gauge dropped to empty, TPMS warning, etc.

The IHS is the internal high-speed CAN; you have about 5 CAN systems and a few LINS; I know you have a CAN and a CAN2 for engine control; IHS runs a combo meter, so this is where all the warning lamps are, and when it goes down, all goes nuts.

Anyway, good luck; intermittent issues can be tough; this is where a nice scope to see waveforms for the CAN system comes in handy; I posted up the one I got when chasing this issue down.

We have a STAR connector where you can unplug branches from the CAN, and when the offending one is disconnected, the system returns online; it's a bunch of small 2-pin connectors in a block, LH side of the dash area.

I think this was made to allow techs easy diagnostics.

Location of STAR connector on a 2019, maybe the same area, never mind the Neanderthal arm, it is not me; if it were, I'd shave them.

Thanks for the information and suggestions, makes sense and could be a grounding issue.

I have a Pico Scope and could also monitor the networks.

So far this issue has only happened once when it was cold and the battery state of charge was lower than usual.

I will continue to monitor the situation with the batteries charged.

I noticed the “battery saver” mode kicked in today while driving even after the 10 amp battery tender had been on for 4 hours prior and the alternator is charging okay.

I will also be stopping by Batteries Plus to see if they will test and replace the batteries under warranty.

I noticed the battery voltage floats up to 14 volts while charging but drops to 11.8 volts in less than an hour when parked.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

I'd say you are on the right track with batteries, and no way will a bank of batteries drop to 11.8 volts in an hour unless it has a bit capacity; at 11.8 volts, networks won't operate.

I got a pair of new batteries from Home Depot, of all places, best price around too.

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[AK Bob]

Update, I stopped by Batteries Plus this morning, and they agreed the battery voltage is low.

They disconnected the batteries and measured with their tester at 12.1 volts.

The 94R batteries were not in stock but will be available next week.

They want me to remove the batteries from the truck and charge them overnight before I bring them in for exchange; if they still test low, they will give me a free replacement under the 48-month warranty.

I will keep you posted.

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[watersupply189]

Update, I stopped by Batteries Plus this morning, and they agreed the battery voltage is low.

They disconnected the batteries and measured with their tester at 12.1 volts.

The 94R batteries were not in stock but will be available next week.

They want me to remove the batteries from the truck and charge them overnight before I bring them in for exchange; if they still test low, they will give me a free replacement under the 48-month warranty.

I will keep you posted.

I’m glad they will honor the warranty, Bob.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[AK Bob]

Update: New X2 AGM batteries were installed today.

I returned the original batteries to Batteries Plus for charging and testing.

I should hear from them by Friday for a decision on warranty-free replacement.

I will keep you posted.

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