Thanks Thanks:  8
Likes Likes:  17
Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Rear Ujoints - 2010 RAM 2500 4WD

  1. Top Of Page | #1
    toyota_mdt_tech's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Rear Ujoints - 2010 RAM 2500 4WD

    OK, a buddy of mine who was a RAM dealer tech told me to monitor my rear ujoints.

    They are the nongreaseable types.

    I have a two-piece rear driveshaft, and it is all steel.

    I will take the rear shaft out to inspect the joints and carrier bearing.

    I want to have all new joints on hand; I like the greasable units, preferably the zerk in the cap and not at the center of the cross, as it's a more robust unit.

    I will pull out the driveshaft and move all joints on both axes and feel for any lumpiness.

    I get so many variations when looking these up.

    I am assuming all three will be the same part.

    Has anyone else done these?

    Can you confirm?

    And is your driveshaft steel or aluminum?

    When I got the truck, I went under it and was surprised at how many parts were not painted, so I sprayed all the bare metal parts with a case of Krylon black.

    I was told in other forums my driveshaft was aluminum by the resident dick swingers.

    I explain rust is a form of oxidation associated with steel.

    2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....

  2. Thanks Corkey, IGOTACUMMINS thanked for this post
  3. Top Of Page | #2
    badbajawa's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Re: Rear Ujoints - 2010 RAM 2500 4WD

    Just my 2¢ so take it as you wish.

    Greaseable joints are not as strong and, in my experience, never last as long as oem for some reason.

    I think the seals are not as strong to allow the grease to push out personally, but I have no proof.

    Put the truck in neutral, crawl under, shake, twist, and feel for any slop if it's good, then forget about it for a while, and don't fix something that's not broken.

    In my experience, the slip joint has failed and begun causing vibration before the joints, which is why so many of us swap it for a one-piece aluminum aftermarket unit.

    Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

    2014 Ram 3500 mega cab srw, full thuren 2.5 kit, 38" toyos, 4.56 gears, revmax 850 68RFE, grid heater delete w/ monster ram, steedspeed manifold, Ats aurora 6000 add a turbo(s465), ARP 625s, pushrods & springs, 5" tbe, sb filter, stock fuel

  4. Top Of Page | #3
    toyota_mdt_tech's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Re: Rear Ujoints - 2010 RAM 2500 4WD

    Quote Originally Posted by badbajawa View Post
    Just my 2¢ so take it as you wish.

    Greaseable joints are not as strong and, in my experience, never last as long as oem for some reason.

    I think the seals are not as strong to allow the grease to push out personally, but I have no proof.

    Put the truck in neutral, crawl under, shake, twist, and feel for any slop if it's good, then forget about it for a while, and don't fix something that's not broken.

    In my experience, the slip joint has failed and begun causing vibration before the joints, which is why so many of us swap it for a one-piece aluminum aftermarket unit.

    Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
    No, there is a lot of truth to the greaseable ones vs. the nongreaseable ones; the seals are tighter.

    The hollow cross for the grease passage is questionable; why I wanted to keep from the cross zerk vs. the one at the end of a cap?

    Another area to inspect is to look for that red rust/dust at the seal ends of the bearing caps.

    Joints go tighter before they go looser when failing from no grease or weather intrusion.

    I pull an enclosed trailer 650 miles round trip; it's over 3 mt passes 4 times a year to my cabin and 40 acres in, where else, central Washington, probably by your neck of the woods, maybe? , and I am well outside my network of friends.

    I dont plan on replacing any joints until needed; the plan was just to do an inspection and have them on hand if I felt bad.

    The LF axle joint being shot at 42K babied easy miles, never in bad weather, and no salt corrosion has me being a little proactive, and a RAM dealer tech telling me they are a weakness and to monitor them.

    And it was an OE unit with no zerk fitting and always rotating with zero loads. (reason for the free-wheeling hub install)

    Badbaja, how far are you from Omak?

    2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....

  5. Thanks IGOTACUMMINS thanked for this post
  6. Top Of Page | #4
    badbajawa's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    Re: Rear Ujoints - 2010 RAM 2500 4WD

    Remember, U-joints like to operate in pairs; that's why a one-piece drive shaft lasts longer than a two-piece.

    Steering knuckles and hubs in Washington State, especially our only good for 50,000 miles if you're lucky.

    There's one U-joint in the system.

    It operates at a substantial angle and takes all of the road salt abuse doesn't matter the quality level of them; they all seem to fail about that same time range for me.

    I've got a few million miles on these trucks, which has been a fact for as long as I can remember.

    I have changed u-joints in the middle of the Mojave desert with a Coleman barbecue, a bottle jack, and a fifth wheel.

    I know the frustrations of when they fail while you're traveling, so I get where you're coming from.

    Pretty near the Cle Elum area, so still a little ways from Omak.

    Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

    2014 Ram 3500 mega cab srw, full thuren 2.5 kit, 38" toyos, 4.56 gears, revmax 850 68RFE, grid heater delete w/ monster ram, steedspeed manifold, Ats aurora 6000 add a turbo(s465), ARP 625s, pushrods & springs, 5" tbe, sb filter, stock fuel

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •