Wheel Bearing Experience?

[Corkey]

Fairly sure my driver side from the wheel bearing is going out.

I haven't lifted the truck to do a shake-down yet.

I haven't changed any of them out since I bought the rig.

Now which leads me to my question.

It seems dumb to replace one if one is bad, but I see Timken and MOOG, which are on the spendy side.

I want feedback from you guys on which company to go for vs. the other.

If I'm changing them out, I won't go OEM, and I'll go for longevity and stronger over stock.

I have an account with my local Swabs, and I may have to convince them to special order for me.

Thanks, fellas, for the feedback.

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[AK Bob]

Need to check them for play and inspection.

If you need a replacement, I would go with Timken.

Personally, if you need to replace one, I would replace all while you are at it.

Hopefully, others will home in with their thoughts.

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[egolsen]

I worked in the parts business for many years with Napa auto parts.

You want to go with the premium brands like Timken or SKF.

There are significant differences.

Unless you had a specific event that caused premature failure of one side, you could bet that both are probably in pretty similar conditions.

So if one is bad, the other isn’t far behind.

Then it is just whether you want to get dirty twice or tackle it all at once.

We got a lot of training, one early failure from SKF.

The first cause of early failure was putting an impact on the axle nut to tighten it.

The outer race is set to very high tolerances, and its impact can change that race to change tolerance and life.

That nut must be put on and torqued to spec for prolonged bearing life.

It’s a pain to do, but they are costly.

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[Corkey]

Thank you bud.

Yeah, I'll probably go with Timken.

For both, its 500 and some change.

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[watersupply189]

My driver's side went out.

No warning or anything.

I was getting my tires rotated and happened to do the shake test.

I thought the wheel would fall off, and it was that bad.

The shop ordered this bearing from O Riley’s because I was leaving for vacation within a few hours and didn’t have time to get a better brand.

The passenger side was still good and tight, so I opted to leave it alone for the time being.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[Corkey]

I came down from the woods and randomly started hearing things.

I got home, shook the drive line, checked u-joints, checked for a rock in the pads, and found nothing.

I don't have a big enough floor jack to pick the front end up, and it's getting worse as we speak.

Swabs said they were getting ripped off when they quoted me 400 per for SKF.

I will get the two fronts from Timken for 500 bucks, bring them to swabs, and charge labor to my account.

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[Mimic]

I just had mine done today.

They were covered under my extended warranty and had ball joints, so you might want to do them while you have them apart because they probably aren’t far behind.

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[AK Bob]

I came down from the woods and randomly started hearing things.

I got home, shook the drive line, checked u-joints, checked for a rock in the pads, and found nothing.

I don't have a big enough floor jack to pick the front end up, and it's getting worse as we speak.

Swabs said they were getting ripped off when they quoted me 400 per for SKF.

I will get the two fronts from Timken for 500 bucks, bring them to swabs, and charge labor to my account.

That sounds better, and I see they are available on Amazon for $248 each.

This is the part number I came up with after a quick search, but I could be wrong.

https://www.amazon.com/Timken-SP5501...Dodge+Ram+2500

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[Corkey]

I just had mine done today.

They were covered under my extended warranty and had ball joints, so you might want to do them while you have them apart because they probably aren’t far behind.

On my last visit with them, I had tie rod ends, and ball joints were done, thankfully.

Just like @watersupply189 experienced, it came out of nowhere

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

Now would be a good time to swap over to free wheeling hubs.

The new alloy rims don't allow it anymore, i.e., the borehole is smaller than the hub size.

I have a buddy, and we are doing his 2015 RAM 3500 Tradesman, he has steel-clad wheels with large lug covers, so it's a nonissue for fit.

I was concerned about the wheel bearing, and the front axle assy always rotating on my truck (2010) and added them.

Mine now uses serviceable tapered roller bearings, and the kit did come with Timken.

It did come with Mile Marker hubs' small surface area, so it was upgraded to the massive WARN hubs.

I did not toss my old wheel bearing/hub assy, and I probably won't either.

I did find a shot driver's side axle joint while in there.

axle_freewheeling1.jpg

WarnHubsClose.jpg

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