Sorry to hear this, I agree it does not sound good.
Curious what are your chances of finding a replacement or rebuilding in the UK?
Sorry to hear this, I agree it does not sound good.
Curious what are your chances of finding a replacement or rebuilding in the UK?
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
Priorities are going to pick up a ranch hand bumper on Friday.
That's all motorway driving, so lockup all the way.
I can flush out the pan when I get back and see its condition, about a 300-mile round trip.
I'm hoping BD diesel will ship; someone in the UK had a trans sent from them.
Otherwise, it'll be freight pickup.
The core arrangements are going to be a pain.
The guy I'm buying the bumper from has contacts.
Hopefully, he might know a route.
I want a performance-built trans; kind of ideal if I could nurse this trans until the end of the year.
2006 5.9, K&N, smarty tuned com mod, 35x12.5 r20's, Stryker off road control arms, Ranch hand bumper, half black, half raptor lined. Custom twin exit 5" pipes, arp head studs.
BD Diesel is getting back to me with a quote for freight shipping.
I've found a place a few hours from me that have rebuilt a few 66rfe's and upgraded them to 68's.
He says a 48 RFE would be easy to upgrade for me.
Basically, "if you want stock, you can have stock; if you want something that could handle up to 1000bhp, I can do that too". I said, "Track-ish use with hard shift points that can safely handle future torque upgrades and current torque."
Good result.
Depending on his prices, he may have a sale!
BTW, a 20 mile journey today sucked out 5 litres from the sump, black-ish, 5.5 litres back in of fresh.
I could start to feel slippage between 1-2 and an "I don't know if i should change to 2-3."
I am assuming thats slippage.
Will keep doing this fluid exchange until I can get it to this trans shop.
Assuming lock up will keep me moving!
2006 5.9, K&N, smarty tuned com mod, 35x12.5 r20's, Stryker off road control arms, Ranch hand bumper, half black, half raptor lined. Custom twin exit 5" pipes, arp head studs.
We booked for the 11th of August for a built trans to accept up to 900 bhp.
Not exactly what I had planned, but still, I'm stoked I'm getting it rebuilt for power.
The final stepping stone to laying down some power.
I feel it's been my fault for quite a few 4wd launches.
I work shifts around a cruise hot spot; finish time coincides with rollout time, and the lights are always red.
They see the truck and think, "slow."
Four series BMW gets put in its place.
2006 5.9, K&N, smarty tuned com mod, 35x12.5 r20's, Stryker off road control arms, Ranch hand bumper, half black, half raptor lined. Custom twin exit 5" pipes, arp head studs.
Sounds great!
You won’t have any transmission troubles with that setup.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
Yes, and look at the area between AC condensor and the radiator, there is a void between them that gets debris built up you may not ever see unless you remove top shroud. Anything in there blocks air flow for tranny cooler, AC condenser and radiator. Make sure fan coupler is locking up. Rev engine up a little when this elevated temps appear, can you hear your cooling fan really pulling air? It should, vs not being locked.
Is your engine temps stable where they are supposed to be? If so, this means the tranny is generating this heat. When a torque converter "sears" or cuts the oil, this drives temps up. If you are in lots of stop and go, where you may not be seeing stall speed at the converter reached, then it goes into second gear because of the small load (light throttle) and then engine slows down and back under stall speed.
The same scenario happens traveling at slow speeds in dry fluffy sand or deep snow. Never reaches torque stall speed. Best bet is to manually pull your trans down into a lower gear, ie 1st to not allow it to shift up and if you are going faster for 1st, then pull it into second. Main thing is you want engine RPM's to meet or exceet stall speed. Also, pop it into neutral and elevate engine RPM's too to help cool things down, other option is to add a supplemental trans cooler to your existing ones. Please dont wire tie it to the radiator, especially if its aluminum, will damage the core and eventually leak coolant.
A downside to manual low is it does automatically increase line pressure which can raise temps (reverse does the same, keep this in mind if you are even pulling someone out of a rough spot, use manual low vs Drive low.
OK, a little ATM-101. Hope it helps.
2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....
She's in the shop now; the UK is in a heatwave, so leaving at 4 am to make a 220-mile journey on known roads for stop-start traffic got me there.
Once it was +50mph, I locked up and just kept cruising.
Trans temp never rose over 165.
As the sun came up and hit roadworks 100 miles in, trans temp rose to 175ish.
Once I arrived at the town, the stop-start immediately began spiking.
Long and short, they arrived unscathed.
Verdict, clutch pack on 3rd gear was toasted, warping the steel liners.
About a month wait for spares, the rebuilder is having issues with obtaining spares.
I'm in no rush for it.
He's adding an aux cooler to the setup, removing the thermostatic valve.
The fan clutch does work.
When diagnosing the overheating, I used a hose on the cooler to drop the temperature, and water pooled in the fan shroud.
When the engine temp was reached, it called for the clutch to be engaged, and a massive spray of water shot out from under the hood.
Whatever pooled on the radiator, i/c, the condenser was ejected up all over the place.
2006 5.9, K&N, smarty tuned com mod, 35x12.5 r20's, Stryker off road control arms, Ranch hand bumper, half black, half raptor lined. Custom twin exit 5" pipes, arp head studs.
Bingo, the biggest culprit is debris collecting between radiator and condenser or inter-cooler.
Check the voids between units; they get lots of debris in there.
Also, the fan coupler should make lots of noise, pulling lots of air at slower speeds.
You can hear the difference.
Also, make sure foam packing around the shroud is all in place, or airflow can be diverted around the radiator; you want it to all go through it.
Fan shroud fit well, packing in place, all pieces there?
2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....
Well, she's back. Jeez, I'm glad.
Rebuilt, with a 7? Clutch setup, new flex plate, TC and "performance rated up to 900bhp and 1000+lbs/ft of torques"
Heat, on the way home wasn't an issue, it touched 200 in the city I left in stop start traffic, but I think it may have been pot luck. But the 8 hour drive home in stop start traffic, she topped at 190. With a/c off and fan clutch not operating, it hit coolant temp at 195 max.
Once I've recovered from the £5k rebuild cost, a mishimoto kit is being installed.
Fan clutch is being suspect. Ones ordered from rockauto. It's having its oil done next week. When the clutch arrives.
2006 5.9, K&N, smarty tuned com mod, 35x12.5 r20's, Stryker off road control arms, Ranch hand bumper, half black, half raptor lined. Custom twin exit 5" pipes, arp head studs.
Glad you're fixed back up, man.
Please give me a review of the intercooler.
Edit- did you get a billet input shaft in your build?
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX, YUKON 4.56 GEARS W/ COVERS
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