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Thread: 4th Gen Locking Hubs

  1. Top Of Page | #1
    jeepmanjr's Avatar

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    4th Gen Locking Hubs

    I've been looking around and don't seem to find a lot on this topic.

    Forgive me if this horse has been beaten to death.

    I'd like to convert to locking hubs, but I can't say I care for those that stick way out there.

    I'm looking for some experienced guidance and suggestions.

    IGC always seems to be the place to find it. ;-)

    '17 2500 SLT, 6" on 37's, 4.44's, Tuned/MM3/Matched Autometer, Grid Delete w/GDP Horn, BDD Ironhorn BW 364SXE Turbo, S&B Intake, 5" Turbo Back W/Muffler, Revmax Zeroflex Valve Body & Thermal Bypass, Mag-Hytec, 8.4AN & EVIC Upgrade, Fab Fours/Fusion, Full LED and a host of other mods.

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  3. Top Of Page | #2
    P2609 Fanatic Electrojake's Avatar

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    Re: 4th Gen Locking Hubs

    Greetings jeepmanjr

    I wondered what the need for locking hubs would be on a Gen-4 truck with a split front axle disconnect?



    And BTW, a few years back, I looked into locking hubs for my 2016 3500, and the killer for me is that I would have to machine all eight of my OEM alloy wheels to open the center hole so they would fit the hubs.

    The price, extra weight, and then having the wheels machined put me over the edge on the front hubs job.



    Please keep us posted!

    Regards,
    -Jake-

    2016 Longhorn 3500, 4x4 shortbed CrewCab, Cummins HO/AISIN, 99.8% stock.
    * Hauling a 2018 Northstar Arrow-U. Scale weight 12,400 Lb.

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  5. Top Of Page | #3
    legendaryandrew's Avatar

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    Re: 4th Gen Locking Hubs

    Did this to my truck a couple of years ago, along with a manual Tcase swap.

    I dig it, but I'm old school.

    I did it due to electrical gremlins leaving me stranded off-road; the truck wouldn't shift into 4wd.

    My advice, avoid my path.

    I bought the RAMMAN hubs first, but when you look at them, they're just Ford unit bearings machined to fit the AAM axle, and so IMO, not worth the money, seeing as for about 500 more, you can get Dynatrack hubs which are monstrously strong, and what I ended up with after fighting RAMMAN on my return for about two months (avoid at all costs, sub-par product, POOR customer service, just my experience).

    I also got a machined passenger side axle, full length, to replace the two-piece and CAD disconnector that is in there from the factory.

    The dust seal that is between the CAD and the diff.

    It may not seal 100%, but mine has never leaked or anything, so at least for me it's perfect.

    As for poking out, I went with the Dyna-loc hubs, not Warn, because they're supposedly a bit shorter than the Warns because I was worried about how far they stuck out too, and mine are fine.

    I'm running 20x9 or 20x10 Fuel wheels and 38x13.50 tires, though.

    Also, the people who say you'll get better fuel economy are not precisely correct. It didn't affect mine at all.

    Since tuning i've always gotten 18-22mpg on cruising, 16-18 city.

    If you have any specific questions, PM me so I get notified, though I don't log on too often.

    I'm 100% satisfied with my setup now.

    The truck is a reliable beast off-road.

    EDIT: as the other guy stated, the factory wheels will no longer fit. I recommend getting aftermarket wheels over machining the factory wheels tho, for liability reasons.

    If you break a wheel for whatever reason and get in an accident, plan on having insurance tell you to go F yourself.

    '13 CCSB 6.7
    DRD tuned MM3, deleted, H&S S364SXE, Steed Speed CNC manifold, 5" exhaust, Banks 3.5" intake manifold, grid heater delete, CAT fuel filters, BW44-47 swap, CAD delete w/ one piece axle, Dynatrac free spin, Detroit rear AAM/PW front e-locker, 4.88 Nitro gears, Carli Pintop 3.25", King 2.5, Carli-Deaver leaf packs, Carli radius arms, Carli steering stabilizers, 1" blocks in rear, bronze 20x10 Fuel Coverts, 38x13.50x20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

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  7. Top Of Page | #4
    Acerock's Avatar

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    Re: 4th Gen Locking Hubs

    The big question is, why are you looking to convert?

    Is it because you would like the ability to reverse a trailer while enjoying the low range that your transfer case can provide, or are you looking to get rid of that center axle disconnect and add something manual but way more reliable?

    If you are looking for a way to back a trailer up while using 4-wheel low, check out BD diesel.

    They sell an electronic module that will let you disconnect the front axle while in 4 low, allowing you to back up. It's an easy solution to a problem most folks want to solve.


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  9. Top Of Page | #5
    toyota_mdt_tech's Avatar

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    Re: 4th Gen Locking Hubs

    OK, I did this, mine is a 2010, I went spyntech, from @Geno's Garage.

    I did the upgraded WARN hubs, the Mile Marker hubs it comes with has a much smaller surface area to transfer the torque through, something would break when you really needed it to work.

    Plan on installing new axle joints as long as its apart, get the HD ones (grease fitting at cup end, not at cross) and have lots of wheel bearing grease.

    I did one side at a time, jacking up one corner high to not lose any front axle grease.

    Went well, I did get a 4 1/8" hole saw to drill out my wheel caps.

    Im going to be installing a set for a buddys 2015 RAM 3500 AISAN, its a Tradesman model, interesting thing on the wheels.

    I think he has steel clad wheels. I will look before we tackle this. He has already purchased the kit.

    Pictures of my finished unit.







    Now to the good hub upgrade:





    2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....

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  11. Top Of Page | #6
    toyota_mdt_tech's Avatar

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    Re: 4th Gen Locking Hubs

    Quote Originally Posted by Acerock View Post
    The big question is, why are you looking to convert?
    Mine was to stop all that rotating mass.

    I know they went to an axle disconnect, and a relay can keep the axle from locking.

    I have a solid axle, so good investment; it just keeps lots of rotating parts still that didn't need to be rotating.

    2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....

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  13. Top Of Page | #7
    toyota_mdt_tech's Avatar

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    Re: 4th Gen Locking Hubs

    Quote Originally Posted by Electrojake View Post
    Greetings jeepmanjr

    I wondered what the need for locking hubs would be on a Gen-4 truck with a split front axle disconnect?

    https://i.postimg.cc/X7HJHpkJ/spyntech-hubs-0001.jpg

    And BTW, a few years back, I looked into locking hubs for my 2016 3500, and the killer for me is that I would have to machine all eight of my OEM alloy wheels to open the center hole so they would fit the hubs.

    The price, extra weight, and then having the wheels machined put me over the edge on the front hubs job.

    https://i.postimg.cc/Wp5Ljj1Q/Bal-Mas-OEM-wheel.jpg

    Please keep us posted!

    Regards,
    -Jake-
    I'm interested in this machine wheels, is this for the alloys?

    Did RAM decide to go to a smaller rim hole for the front hub?

    2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....

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  15. Top Of Page | #8
    P2609 Fanatic Electrojake's Avatar

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    Re: 4th Gen Locking Hubs

    Quote Originally Posted by toyota_mdt_tech View Post
    I'm interested in this machine wheels, is this for the alloys?

    Did RAM decide to go to a smaller rim hole for the front hub?
    The center opening in the Gen-4 alloy wheels is a little too small for the locking hub to fit thru.

    Thus you will have to machine out the opening to fit the locking hubs.

    Not a big deal.

    2016 Longhorn 3500, 4x4 shortbed CrewCab, Cummins HO/AISIN, 99.8% stock.
    * Hauling a 2018 Northstar Arrow-U. Scale weight 12,400 Lb.

  16. Top Of Page | #9
    toyota_mdt_tech's Avatar

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    Re: 4th Gen Locking Hubs

    Quote Originally Posted by Electrojake View Post
    The center opening in the Gen-4 alloy wheels is a little too small for the locking hub to fit thru.

    Thus you will have to machine out the opening to fit the locking hubs.

    Not a big deal.
    Thanks, I just confirmed with him; he does have the steel-clad wheels; I can assume he will be OK then.

    He wouldn't hesitate to machine them out.

    He has 18"; I may just have him look around for some take-off alloys anyway, be a nice upgrade.

    In the meantime, we should be able to go forward with the conversion.

    Now you mention GEN4; my 2010 is a Gen 4, perfect fit; his is a 2015 3500 HO/Aisin.

    Do you know which year this was done?

    2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....

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  18. Top Of Page | #10
    toyota_mdt_tech's Avatar

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    Re: 4th Gen Locking Hubs

    Quote Originally Posted by Electrojake View Post
    Greetings jeepmanjr

    I wondered what the need for locking hubs would be on a Gen-4 truck with a split front axle disconnect?

    https://i.postimg.cc/X7HJHpkJ/spyntech-hubs-0001.jpg

    And BTW, a few years back, I looked into locking hubs for my 2016 3500, and the killer for me is that I would have to machine all eight of my OEM alloy wheels to open the center hole so they would fit the hubs.

    The price, extra weight, and then having the wheels machined put me over the edge on the front hubs job.

    https://i.postimg.cc/Wp5Ljj1Q/Bal-Mas-OEM-wheel.jpg

    Please keep us posted!

    Regards,
    -Jake-
    Jake, can you pop off your cap on that wheel and post a picture?

    I'm curious, at your leisure of course.

    If the wheel is off, a picture of the backside?

    Getting ducks in a row before I tackle buddies' conversion.

    2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....

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