RIP Actuator - New Turbo Time

[Shusaim]

Gents, I hope all is well!

The truck has been running flawlessly for the past 1.5 years since doing the full delete up until this weekend.

I was hauling my trailer and noticed a slight hesitation during acceleration, then saw I was only getting about 5psi of boost - and no exhaust brake.

The current state of affairs is that the actuator will work when the truck is cold; however, once it gets hot, it quits.

This unfortunately occurred when the exhaust brake was actuated, which also made for a rather enjoyable time.

Thankfully the MM3 cleared the code, and it went back to its 'home' setting, which allowed me to get home!

So thinking of ordering the Fleece Cheetah as I don't need any more power than what I have now, and I don't have any interest in bigger injectors, pumps, etc. Just looking for something that will drop in and perhaps gimme a little cooler EGT and power bump.

I removed the passenger-side fender liner and airbox and have everything soaking in PB blaster.

Now for my questions!

1) It Looks like removing the shock tower will give me tons of room - is this a good idea?

2) How do I remove the upstream NOx sensor? Is this even required now that Im deleted it?

3) I see threads, where people say removing the motor mount is absolute; others say it isn't necessary. What's the deal?

4) @DRD - do I need any reflash in going with the Cheetah? I don't think so, but I figure it good to double-check.

5) From what I've read, it seems like the most significant issues are removing the turbo and coolant drain lines, as well as the turbo to manifold bolts. Special tools needed? Would it make sense to replace the stock oil feed and drain lines with those from Fleece?

Certainly open to other suggestions and comments.

Thanks!
Steve

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[AK Bob]

Gents, I hope all is well!

The truck has been running flawlessly for the past 1.5 years since doing the full delete up until this weekend.

I was hauling my trailer and noticed a slight hesitation during acceleration, then saw I was only getting about 5psi of boost - and no exhaust brake.

The current state of affairs is that the actuator will work when the truck is cold; however, once it gets hot, it quits.

This unfortunately occurred when the exhaust brake was actuated, which also made for a rather enjoyable time.

Thankfully the MM3 cleared the code, and it went back to its 'home' setting, which allowed me to get home!

So thinking of ordering the Fleece Cheetah as I don't need any more power than what I have now, and I don't have any interest in bigger injectors, pumps, etc. Just looking for something that will drop in and perhaps gimme a little cooler EGT and power bump.

I removed the passenger-side fender liner and airbox and have everything soaking in PB blaster.

Now for my questions!

1) It Looks like removing the shock tower will give me tons of room - is this a good idea?

2) How do I remove the upstream NOx sensor? Is this even required now that Im deleted it?

3) I see threads, where people say removing the motor mount is absolute; others say it isn't necessary. What's the deal?

4) @DRD - do I need any reflash in going with the Cheetah? I don't think so, but I figure it good to double-check.

5) From what I've read, it seems like the most significant issues are removing the turbo and coolant drain lines, as well as the turbo to manifold bolts. Special tools needed? Would it make sense to replace the stock oil feed and drain lines with those from Fleece?

Certainly open to other suggestions and comments.

Thanks!
Steve

Have you considered just replacing the actuator?

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[Shusaim]

Hello, my friend!

I had considered it, but more than a handful of people strongly suggested biting the bullet.

Happy to hear other perspectives, though!

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[AK Bob]

Hello, my friend!

I had considered it, but more than a handful of people strongly suggested biting the bullet.

Happy to hear other perspectives, though!

Sure, depending on your turbo's mileage, age, and condition, just replacing the actuator may be a cost-effective solution.

City Diesel makes a replacement actuator that is an upgrade from the original with a stronger motor and no calibration required.

If you go this route, you will need to remove your old actuator and check the turbo gear for damage and freedom of movement.

If the turbo checks well, you are all set.

If the turbo is not good, you would need to order a replacement turbo without an actuator.

See the link for more information.

https://ddpmotorsports.com/i-3053340...ctkit2013.html


2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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[Corkey]

Before purchasing, I could potentially help you out a bunch.

I have a 08 Cummins as I believe the flanges will work.

I have A fleece cheetah 64mm with only 2 to 5k miles, if even that.

Alone the turbo, as you know, is 2900+.

See if this will work for your application, and we could certainly cut the price in half from what I paid or more.

It's been sitting ever since i went with a 2G swap.

@Shusaim

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[Shusaim]

Thanks yet again.

I'll rip off the old actuator today and will take a look.

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[Shusaim]

I ripped the turbo off as the bottom actuator bolt stripped.

Buying the new turbo, given its late reputation, ensures I have a warranty.

It takes less than 2h to remove, and I love the 2013 deleted space!

A few things to note:
1 - I removed the turbo outlet to give me more space.
2 - I'm installing a new drain, so I cut the old one, eliminating the pain of unbolting it.
3 - turbo had more than enough room to come out the side.

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[ORDuner]

I just thought I'd chime in on this post.

Like you, my turbo actuator failed.

I didn't bother trying to fix the actuator and jumped straight to a turbo replacement.

So put a Fleece Cheetah on my truck which is a good unit.

I didn't notice much of a difference in performance, but it spools like stock and pulls harder than before.

The gauge tells me it's about 36 psi on "tune 5".

I noticed a slight bit more whistley noises, too, putting a little grin on my face.

Bottom line, based on the three days I've had the turbo on the truck.

I'd do it again.

PM me if you'd like to know more about the exhaust on my truck.

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[Corkey]

Stock the truck will only read up to 36psi.

You'll need a 5 bar instead of a 3 bar "stock" to read higher boost pressures.

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[Corkey]

https://www.hardwayperformance.com/p.../596710barmap/

For those that are interested in seeing exact boost pressures

You can also find it cheaper, and I just tend to stay close to name-brand companies.

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