Engine Stalls / Won’t Start?

[toyota_mdt_tech]

That’s one thing I’m trying to understand.

How come they didn’t reprogram your VIN back in?

It was there when you gave it to them to work on.

I would contact them to do it right.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

When we install a new ECM, the VIN isn't written, and the immobilizer is in what I call open enrollment mode; in other words, it will automatically accept the immobilizer key you install in it, then do this for both keys, then it will close enrolment, or you can exit it by a chicken dance.

Also, our VINS are not written into it, we have to write the VIN in, but it doesn't affect running.

It just helps the scan tool ID what it's seeing.

The customer needs to clear all codes, then crank or try to start it and see what codes show up.

There is a WIN module by the key that has a history of giving trouble.

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[daytona701]

Bought the ECM from Flagship One for about $1500.

Installed after slow charging batteries and replacing positive battery clamp on driver's side.

The truck started right up and is running.

Now I have to research the process for installing the operating parameters the truck needs.

Any advice or contacts would be appreciated.

Thank you.

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[daytona701]

When you say the MS906 is bi-directional, what is the meaning?

I do mechanic work as a hobby but learning how electronics work is fascinating.

I would like to understand the CRD fueling strategies and if after-market controllers are available.

I read a little about Motec and was wondering if there is DIY EFI available that’s affordable.

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[kgharrin]

I understand bi-directional to mean that you can both read codes/live data AND command the ECM diagnostic system (hot functions, calibrations, etc.)

A Uni-directional device would only allow you to read information.

Happy to be corrected if I am wrong.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

When you say the MS906 is bi-directional, what is the meaning?

I do mechanic work as a hobby but learning how electronics work is fascinating.

I would like to understand the CRD fueling strategies and if after-market controllers are available.

I read a little about Motec and was wondering if there is DIY EFI available that’s affordable.

Bi-direction is the ability to not only just read the ECU, and you can now command the ECM to do things, which we call active test, also calibrate a new turbo actuator, for example, requires a bi-directional.

I have the MX808 Autel, but only one direction; my MS906 is bi-directional, allowing me to program keys also.

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[daytona701]

I talked to Steve at ClearCom Technology about using the tuner that’s been with the truck for 8 years.

I was concerned flashing the new ecm wouldn’t work because the tuner would be locked to the old ecm.

The tuner manual says the tuner locks to the VIN and serial number in the ECM.

Anyway, Steve said trying to load the tune may work.

I loaded the mileage tune today and got 23.4 mpg.

Still have engine light on with DTC injector data incompatible for each injector and missing secret key code.

7 DTCs altogether.

I tried several times to erase with a tuner and then the Harbor Freight scan tool.

Those Autel scanners are looking good right now.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

I talked to Steve at ClearCom Technology about using the tuner that’s been with the truck for 8 years.

I was concerned flashing the new ecm wouldn’t work because the tuner would be locked to the old ecm.

The tuner manual says the tuner locks to the VIN and serial number in the ECM.

Anyway, Steve said trying to load the tune may work.

I loaded the mileage tune today and got 23.4 mpg.

Still have engine light on with DTC injector data incompatible for each injector and missing secret key code.

7 DTCs altogether.

I tried several times to erase with a tuner and then the Harbor Freight scan tool.

Those Autel scanners are looking good right now.

I know there is a code or something from the injectors that must be input into the ECM.

Not sure if its a compensation code based on flow.

A compensation code will allow for variations in injector volumes.

They are not all identical, very close, this is probably just supepr fine tuning for cylinder balance I would imagine.

I'm certain the AUTEL bi directional ones allows you to input those, includes probably writing the VINS into them too.

A guy needs a good scan tool, maybe not bi directional, but if you go deeper into your rig over the average DIYr, better plan on a bi directional.

If you get a one way, then end up buying bi directional you are out the price of the one way scanner, so not getting the right one in the first place would cost you more.

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[daytona701]

A guy can’t have too many tools.

Expanded capabilities are always welcome.

So I drove the truck for 150 miles today.

I filled up the tank and engine took 4 seconds of cranking to start.

Normally starts quick.

Figured maybe some air bubbles from fuel sloshing caused a bubble in the fuel line.

Then the red light of death came on and scan tool says crankshaft position sensor circuit.

Tried to erase the 6 injector and crankshaft sensor codes but no joy.

Checked the wiring at the crankshaft sensor and looks good.

Had replaced crankshaft sensor first when problems started.

Funny when I bought the crankshaft sensor at O’Reillys the cute girl behind the counter told me I should buy the cam sensor also because most people changed both crankshaft and cam at the same time.

I didn’t know both sensors were the same part but she did.

So now I have to learn how to trace the crankshaft position circuit.

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[daytona701]

My vehicles are a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD, a 2003 Dodge 3500 Cummins, a 2007 Dodge 2500 Cummins, and a 2012 Dodge 1500 Hemi.

It would be money well spent to get a high-end scan tool to be able to maintain my junk.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

A guy can’t have too many tools.

Expanded capabilities are always welcome.

So I drove the truck for 150 miles today.

I filled up the tank and engine took 4 seconds of cranking to start.

Normally starts quick.

Figured maybe some air bubbles from fuel sloshing caused a bubble in the fuel line.

Then the red light of death came on and scan tool says crankshaft position sensor circuit.

Tried to erase the 6 injector and crankshaft sensor codes but no joy.

Checked the wiring at the crankshaft sensor and looks good.

Had replaced crankshaft sensor first when problems started.

Funny when I bought the crankshaft sensor at O’Reillys the cute girl behind the counter told me I should buy the cam sensor also because most people changed both crankshaft and cam at the same time.

I didn’t know both sensors were the same part but she did.

So now I have to learn how to trace the crankshaft position circuit.

Be cautious of some of those large chain store sensors, are they from china?

Hold original in your hand and hold replacement, do they weight the same or is Oreillys much lighter?

They dont live long. If you go to rockauto dot com and look up your truck and parts, it gives you a nice breakdown of the diff mfg available, price and even their part numbers.

Just having the part number is valuable for locating the part on the net somewhere else. Its a good place to get parts, but also a good resource to get part numbers.

You could of compared cam and crank to see if they are the same part.

This allows you to look up the right part, then you can call your part store, ask them if they have X part number in stock.

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