2008 RAM 6.7L Head Gasket Going? Need Help!

[Cody Adams]

Need help on this!

The truck is on a RaceME Ultra 200hp tune.

lets start a couple months back the internal gasket on the t-stat ate itself away so the truck wouldn’t get to temp in timing of the ecu wanted so it kept throwing a code.
Replaced the t stat and new radiator with a Murray and cap that came with the radiator. Bled the truck a bunch when refilling, always using the vent tube going to middle of the block like should to release air. Bust it off every time after getting truck to temp to release air and once fluid comes cap off.

well a week or two ago I noticed something on my fender which was coolant that blew out of the overflow tank.. tanks was full of coolant.

this is I’m talking more then 20k miles on it since last coolant swap.

figured if I had a air trap issue it would have done it immediately..
well I drain the overflow and cap off the rad.
leaving the vent tube bolt off like always till it poured out fluid. Did this 3 times getting it everywhere cause at this point I was tired of trying to keep things clean as I kept doing it.

week goes past since I first seen it blow out of the overflow. The water pump starts dumping coolant out of the peep hole. Not a trickle like steady stream. Drove the truck 30 minutes to the shop never went over 210 degrees with it puking coolant.

swapped the pump out with a factory pump Friday may 6th. It’s now may 11th only put 150 miles on the truck and the overflow is full and about to blow out but luckily I’m already parked for the day.

so here’s the thing.
truck never goes over 205 on temp.
usually around 192-197

but I can open the rad cap at any time. No matter if the truck is to temp or not. Cap side top of rad is cool to touch and the t stat side of rad is hot.

do I have a gasket splitting pushing exhaust gasses into the overflow tank???

need help asap as I don’t want to be stuck on the side of the road but I do need to use the truck.

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[watersupply189]

Need help on this!

truck is on a race me ultra 200hp tune.

lets start a couple months back the internal gasket on the t-stat ate itself away so the truck wouldn’t get to temp in timing of the ecu wanted so it kept throwing a code.
Replaced the t stat and new radiator with a Murray and cap that came with the radiator. Bled the truck a bunch when refilling, always using the vent tube going to middle of the block like should to release air. Bust it off every time after getting truck to temp to release air and once fluid comes cap off.

well a week or two ago I noticed something on my fender which was coolant that blew out of the overflow tank.. tanks was full of coolant.

this is I’m talking more then 20k miles on it since last coolant swap.

figured if I had a air trap issue it would have done it immediately..
well I drain the overflow and cap off the rad.
leaving the vent tube bolt off like always till it poured out fluid. Did this 3 times getting it everywhere cause at this point I was tired of trying to keep things clean as I kept doing it.

week goes past since I first seen it blow out of the overflow. The water pump starts dumping coolant out of the peep hole. Not a trickle like steady stream. Drove the truck 30 minutes to the shop never went over 210 degrees with it puking coolant.

swapped the pump out with a factory pump Friday may 6th. It’s now may 11th only put 150 miles on the truck and the overflow is full and about to blow out but luckily I’m already parked for the day.

so here’s the thing.
truck never goes over 205 on temp.
usually around 192-197

but I can open the rad cap at any time. No matter if the truck is to temp or not. Cap side top of rad is cool to touch and the t stat side of rad is hot.

do I have a gasket splitting pushing exhaust gasses into the overflow tank???

need help asap as I don’t want to be stuck on the side of the road but I do need to use the truck.

Did you upgrade your head studs running a 200hp tune?
When you added coolant back, did you turn the heat on inside your truck to max to purge out any air?
Thermostat maybe stuck?
Any coolant in the oil?
Hopefully others will chime in….


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[Cody Adams]

LOL, no, sir. 200k miles with stock bolts.

Oil seems to be a little low; I need to top that off, but it’s good with oil.

No white smoke, **** the truck never really smoked anyways, even on the 200 tune, and yeah, keeping the heater on high every time.

If it was stickying wouldn’t it get hot, or if it was stuck open, stay cold, but it gets to temp relatively normal?

I’d say and clutch ram never kicks unless the A/C is in cause it never goes over 210.

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[watersupply189]

LOL, no, sir. 200k miles with stock bolts.

Oil seems to be a little low; I need to top that off, but it’s good with oil.

No white smoke, **** the truck never really smoked anyways, even on the 200 tune, and yeah, keeping the heater on high every time.

If it was stickying wouldn’t it get hot, or if it was stuck open, stay cold, but it gets to temp relatively normal?

I’d say and clutch ram never kicks unless the A/C is in cause it never goes over 210.

Yeah, that’s the part that stumps me with it running normal temps.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[Cody Adams]

Yeah, that’s the part that stumps me with it running normal temps.

2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

id like to see the dealer note on bleeding the system.

the only thing I can think of is that the cap is opening to early for that much boost running thru the motor. It’s a standard 1.1 bar cap. Not sure if I should try upping the caps bar.

like would a cap opening too soon cause the system to just push out and not get hot at the cap itself? Cause I can literally drive it for 30 min at temp. Cycling between 190-200 for the drive. Then stop and pop the cap right off without a issue. I’ve never seen a system where you can pop the cap at temp.

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[AK Bob]

Need help on this!

truck is on a race me ultra 200hp tune.

lets start a couple months back the internal gasket on the t-stat ate itself away so the truck wouldn’t get to temp in timing of the ecu wanted so it kept throwing a code.
Replaced the t stat and new radiator with a Murray and cap that came with the radiator. Bled the truck a bunch when refilling, always using the vent tube going to middle of the block like should to release air. Bust it off every time after getting truck to temp to release air and once fluid comes cap off.

well a week or two ago I noticed something on my fender which was coolant that blew out of the overflow tank.. tanks was full of coolant.

this is I’m talking more then 20k miles on it since last coolant swap.

figured if I had a air trap issue it would have done it immediately..
well I drain the overflow and cap off the rad.
leaving the vent tube bolt off like always till it poured out fluid. Did this 3 times getting it everywhere cause at this point I was tired of trying to keep things clean as I kept doing it.

week goes past since I first seen it blow out of the overflow. The water pump starts dumping coolant out of the peep hole. Not a trickle like steady stream. Drove the truck 30 minutes to the shop never went over 210 degrees with it puking coolant.

swapped the pump out with a factory pump Friday may 6th. It’s now may 11th only put 150 miles on the truck and the overflow is full and about to blow out but luckily I’m already parked for the day.

so here’s the thing.
truck never goes over 205 on temp.
usually around 192-197

but I can open the rad cap at any time. No matter if the truck is to temp or not. Cap side top of rad is cool to touch and the t stat side of rad is hot.

do I have a gasket splitting pushing exhaust gasses into the overflow tank???

need help asap as I don’t want to be stuck on the side of the road but I do need to use the truck.

You may want to do a coolant combustion test to see if you are pushing exhaust gasses into the overflow tank.

https://www.amazon.com/Block-Tester-...09121118&psc=1

Another option would be to monitor the coolant tank with a pressure transducer and oscilloscopescope to check for combustion pressure pulses.

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[Corkey]

You're dancing in fire with stock head bolts

For giggles, take the oil cap off while started, flip upside down

This will give you a hunch weather or not you're getting any blow by or not

If it cant steadily sit there at idle " minus vibration" you probably have a HG about to go

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[AK Bob]

id like to see the dealer note on bleeding the system.

the only thing I can think of is that the cap is opening to early for that much boost running thru the motor. It’s a standard 1.1 bar cap. Not sure if I should try upping the caps bar.

like would a cap opening too soon cause the system to just push out and not get hot at the cap itself? Cause I can literally drive it for 30 min at temp. Cycling between 190-200 for the drive. Then stop and pop the cap right off without a issue. I’ve never seen a system where you can pop the cap at temp.

Agree it would be a good idea to test or replace the cap to eliminate that possibility.

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[Cody Adams]

You're dancing in fire with stock head bolts

For giggles, take the oil cap off while started, flip upside down

This will give you a hunch weather or not you're getting any blow by or not

If it cant steadily sit there at idle " minus vibration" you probably have a HG about to go

no blow by at all. And yeah that’s what they all say. Just figured I’d ask to see if anyone had the tank overflow before they had to replace the Hg. But for now I turned it down.

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[Corkey]

https://www.honkforhelp.com/explore/...n-head-gasket/

May help giving better help with pin pointing

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