Did the builder upgrade the input shaft?
DRD tuning is the way to go, but at this point, you need to also consider transmission warranty issues prior to adding more power.
Did the builder upgrade the input shaft?
DRD tuning is the way to go, but at this point, you need to also consider transmission warranty issues prior to adding more power.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
Yeah, he installed a 300m billet input shaft, ATS BILLET flex plate, steel kit, ATF, triple-disc super premier converter, cooler filter, internal filter oem, low sprag assembly, OD high hp pressure plate, line sensor OEM, molded piston kit, RFE-7 soft tune, RFE REG OS, RFE TCC Accum, RFE 453 switch valve, new bushings, solenoid "black" OEM, UD BALANCE piston Spain set, a modified pump, VB, so on.
There's more; he just didn't have room to write everything down.
Not sure about the warranty or not being voided; I mentioned the MM3, and he didn't seem to pop up with a red flag.
It's stupid not to let the horses out of the gate and feel what she's got.
So far, a night and day difference in light shifting.
After the motor got up to temp and driving "stop n go," the return line was 111, the pump line was 141, OD 38, UD 42, L\R 73 degrees.
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX
Just remember, if it has wheels, boobs or an address, its going to cost ya money.
2010 Dodge 2500 SLT CCLB 4WD G56 Cummins 6.7 turbo diesel, 3.42 LSD. Add ons: Banks Monster Ram, Grid heater delete, Spyntec Free Spin Kit with Warn hubs (62672) Laramie Alloys (includes spare), "Powerwagon" Flares, Powerwagon bed decal (4X4 off road) OE Ram mudflaps, OE Slush Mats, OE Clearance Lamps, Geno's shift knob in black, 5" DPF back with muffler delete, spray in bedliner, OE brake controller, Durafit Seat Covers, Pro Tech Toolbox, Speed Turtle, Upfitter switches, Ham Radios, 8 Antennas, headache rack, emergency light bar,....
I am bringing this back up for a moment.
I recently had an issue with a concerning sound, only in 2nd gear.
I thought it was a loose chain in the TC, which was not the case, and it favored me for once.
Long story short, i shattered the hardened steel snap ring, which destroyed a few things in the process.
It was under warranty, so not a penny was spent.
The question, he stated two things could have happened; tune for the TCM was what caused it to give "line psi is i recall 165".
or
The temper on the ring was faulty.
He restored just the TCM to stock, and I hate how it shifts being stock.
Can or should I just put the TCM tune back in?
I highly doubt it's due to anything TCM-related.
I want some feedback, please, and thank you.
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX
Or the snap ring was not seated correctly! LOL
Seriously, I have a hard time believing the tune would cause this.
Hopefully, someone with more transmission experience will chime in.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
What snap ring?
If it’s the 2C piston snap ring, I’ve seen a few dislodged from the center support and make noise or cause a hard shift.
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I don't recall exactly what snap ring it was; he was speaking in terms I was not familiar with.
The sound for lack of better terms was, cards in spokes, or very similar to a loose chain rubbing inside the TC.
He put a new drum, clutches, snap rings, and fluids.
Test drove it, said it checks out great.
Threw the TCM to 0 "stock" and said, "not sure if it was tune related, or temper of the snap ring."
I'm on board of the temper suggestion or the ring was not seated correctly.
If I recall correctly, the tune for the TCM is commanded to 160 or 165psi, to help with the problematic slip.
My issue with the stock file, on higher power levels, even more slip and more trips back to the shop.
More slip = more generated heat, which we all know, the 68's hate.
It's on the relearn process yet again.
Do I throw the TCM file back in, I'll have a crisper shift, as we'll with better shift points over stock? Will that cause conflicts with the relearn?
@Chrisn162001
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX
Reload the tcm file, the added line pressure did not cause any damage to the snap ring.
There a 4 snap rings in the 68 that should be changed out every rebuild. Really they should be swapped to a different style snap but not every builder has that info.
The snap ring was either reused when it shouldn’t have been or installed correctly.
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What hp level are you running?
Based on your build list I’d keep it 120 or lower. You got a billet input and triple disc (the brand concerns me never heard of them).
It looks like he used the tgo machined pressure plate for the od clutch’s it allows 14 clutch’s in od vs 12 factory count.
That’s basically is a 500hp rated transmission.
I put in tow for now.
I know there is beveled and flat snap rings.
I'm wanting to throw the TCM back how I had it.
Just unsure if it would cause a conflict or not.
Typically, I run the 200hp
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX
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