F’n AK_Bob never skips a beat.
You deserve a raise, sir!
I was reading a thread last night that you hadn’t seen yet, I imagine.
It was weird not seeing a guide in the thread, LOL.
I LOVE IT!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
F’n AK_Bob never skips a beat.
You deserve a raise, sir!
I was reading a thread last night that you hadn’t seen yet, I imagine.
It was weird not seeing a guide in the thread, LOL.
I LOVE IT!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Agreed 110%.
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX, YUKON 4.56 GEARS W/ COVERS
Thanks, guys; I try to help as much as possible, but I am sure I miss a few here and there.
I also gain knowledge by helping and reading all the great information others post.
We have a great community here with a wealth of knowledge.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
The GM tailpipes are ugly, but it seems like it would work better for cooling than the Ford design, right?
I'm sure the venturi effect comes into play, but when the truck moves, I'm sure more air enters that space and cools it down even more.
The heat from the tailpipe probably wouldn't cause much paint damage when cruising down the road.
Who knows.
2016 Ram 2500 Laramie, CC SB, Thuren leveling kit, Toyo AT3 37/12.5x18s, Method NV HDs, 4.10 AAM gears, Airlift bags/compressor
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