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So this morning, I called up four-wheel parts and asked about the synergy tie rod.
I told him the truck had 150k miles on it, and he said there was no way I would get that kind of mileage out of this Synergy tie rod, and he recommended I replace the factory one with another factory one.
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I replaced my drag link with a Synergy one.Originally Posted by jgruberman
It was noticeably more stout than stock and allows me to replace the ends should I ever need to.
My money is on Synergy MFG.
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Maybe you can fill us in.
Did you install a steering damper?
Can you use the stock damper with the Synergy bracket?
Thanks in advance.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
I've only replaced the drag link so far.
When the time comes to replace the Tie Rod and Ends, I will be going with the Synergy MFG piece.
I don't see why you couldn't use the stock damper as long as the bracket was purchased.
I'm currently running a King Steering Damper and intend to transfer it over.
Do not buy another stock suspension part for your Dodge, or you'll run into the same situation you are currently in.
I would choose what's listed above bud.
Again, you're the owner, do what you believe is right in your situation!
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX
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Interesting they recommended against the Synergy bar, then.
I called him with the intent of purchasing it, and he, the salesman, talked me out of it and told me to get the stock again.
What situation are you referring to?
The bar lasted 150k miles, and I think that's pretty decent, no?
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Generally speaking, Dodges, in general, are well known for having destructive front-end issues.
I'm not sure about the newer Dodges, but they have lousy stock components for my year and older, and you are well known at your local Les Swabs.
Why myself and others, I'm sure, will suggest aftermarket products that can take more abuse, Zert fittings, to help with preventive maintenance.
For Synergy, you can buy individual tie rod ends "cheaper than a whole unit" you are purchasing.
To your question of concern, yes, 150k is good, but the advantages of an aftermarket over stock IMO, say buy me instead.
Also, remember, the salesman only cares about one thing.
Making a sale, and perhaps they didn't carry their line of products and gave the sales pitch towards stock just for sale.
Apologies for the delayed response, long work days.
It also depends on what you do with the truck and your overall goals.
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX
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Is it metal on metal that makes the noise?
Could you unbolt it and throw some brake grease between the metal to lube it up?
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It's the actual joint.
When I press upon it from the ground, it stops creaking, but the tie rod "falls" a little and starts creaking again when it turns around.
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Okay, I misunderstood.
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