Can anyone help me in what order to do everything in?
I have a 2021 standard output, and I want to do the deletes and eventually get to a 2nd gen swap like an S472.
New to Cummins world after driving Powerstrokes.
Can anyone help me in what order to do everything in?
I have a 2021 standard output, and I want to do the deletes and eventually get to a 2nd gen swap like an S472.
New to Cummins world after driving Powerstrokes.
First off, what do you want to do with the truck?
Towing, street/strip, etc.
What power level are you shooting for?
Set a goal and then go from there.
What kind of tuning do you want?
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--Work gives you meaning and purpose, Life is empty without it--
@Sisupower Street/strip.
Maybe somewhere in the 750-800 range.
I tow my only thing is my boat, and I don't go far with it.
I probably weigh 7k.
I looked at DRD tuning but was unsure if they tune for 2nd gen swaps.
The Powerstroke army forum has a section where people discuss different setups for hp ranges, and it was always interesting to read how different people got to different power levels.
Be cool to see something like that here.
IMO, I have been working on diesels for quite a while now as a career and hobby.
The order I like is the transmission build torque converter.
Then I go into the engine.
Do head studs, valve springs, pushrods, and injectors because you are already there.
Don't forget to do a-hot re-torque in studs.
Then a FASS, Airdog, Fleece, or whatever you want to do for more fuel.
You can do a 10mm or 12mm stroker pump CP3 or a duel setup. Up to you.
If you want a cold air intake and horn, then do that.
Then exhaust and all that, but that will happen when you delete the first thing.
I play with turbos last cause you may not want a compound setup; you might want a big single.
You will have to revisit tuning once you have the hard part to make everything work together in the best way possible.
The dyno it and get it dialed in.
Have fun!
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--Work gives you meaning and purpose, Life is empty without it--
They do the tunning for a 2nd Gen swap.
I would also go with a built trans first if i did it again.
It sucks, I know, because you want to feel the power of investing that kind of money.
If you're interested, feel free to reach out to me anytime.
I don't think I'm too far away from your goals with your truck.
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX, YUKON 4.56 GEARS W/ COVERS
I agree to start with trans and work forward.
Please don't add the power until your rig can handle it.
That can cost more in the long run.
2012 RAM 2500 Crew Cab SLT 6.7L.
So with the trans on Powerstroke, when you installed it, you had to get it flashed by a dealer.
Is that the case with the Cummins as well?
Also, since reading all replies, I've been looking at them.
I see the randys highest is rated at 1000 and Revmaxs highest is rated at 850.
Think I should go with the randys just for wiggle room?
If you want to beat the crap out of it go with Randys as he tests his stuff to the extreme.
Revmax makes very reliable and dependable stuff.
Can't go wrong with either, but everything can break even if its all billet stuff.
You don't have to have it flashed by the dealer, but whoever builds it, it will be best to drive it and watch pressures and make sure it's happy
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--Work gives you meaning and purpose, Life is empty without it--
2019 and up 68RFEs, you have to update the torque converter solenoid pi curve if you swap transmissions or valve bodies.
As of now seems like the dealer is the only option.
I haven’t found a scanner with the function yet.
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Chrisn is correct; the Gen 5s need the p.
I curve reset at the dealer, and it’s for the TCC solenoid on the bottom of the valve body; I avoided this by having my builder reuse the TCC solenoid; it was low miles anyway.
You are shooting for injectors for the hp range, and pumps will be a must.
When I did mine, I went backward and did the trans last; if I were to do it again, I’d do it first, LOL.
It never failed me, but it was no fun babying because I knew what would happen if I pushed it.
I’m running Evil Fab 2g swap 472/87/1.0 with a 10mm and ss 100 overs, studs, coolant bypass, FASS, and a sump, and it runs pretty well.
Also, send an email to DRD and ask about tuning it; he told me he didn’t want to mess with mine because of the bigger injectors and the higher hp; maybe he’s doing it now?
Not sure, something was different on the Gen 5 and high hp he didn’t want to mess with.
2019 Ram 2500
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