Few Questions - RAM 22 - 3500

[Tcounty]

My new truck is supposed to be in sometime mid to late January. It’s a 22’ 3500 dually with HO and Aisin.

It will be used to pull RVs all over. So half the miles loaded and half unloaded.

My questions are mainly about maintenance. I’ve spent the last several days reading the forum top to bottom, and I have a pretty good idea of what to do.

Oil Changes, I’m thinking it’s going to be around 10k miles between?

Is a bypass filter recommended?

Will an oil filter relocate or bypass affect my warranty?

I’ve been using T6 oil around the farm. Is this good for the Cummins?

Do I need to stick with Mopar filters?

Change fuel and air filters at the same time as oil?

I assume since it’s a DRW, I won’t be rotating the tires; buy new ones for the front when needed.

How cold does it need to be to plug in the block heater?

Service transmission at 30k?

Anything I need to keep an eye on the DEF system?

Any tricks to help mpg?

Engine exhaust brake on full all the time unless snow and ice?

I don’t want to do anything that would cause warranty issues. When I hit 100k, all bets are off.

New to Cummins, but I’m looking forward to finally owning one.


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[Tcounty]

Forgot one other question.

How bad is idling on these trucks.

I’m talking several hours at a time.

I could see this jacking the Emissions up


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[watersupply189]

Forgot one other question.

How bad is idling on these trucks.

I’m talking several hours at a time.

I could see this jacking the Emissions up

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Excessive idling will cause it to Regen a lot more which isn’t good.

I believe the owners manual states avoid excessive idling.


2016 Ram Laramie 3500, G56, 6.7, CC, 4x4

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[Chrisn162001]

If you're going to idle for hours at a time, set high idle at 1000-1200.

The bypass filter and relocation shouldn’t void the warranty but Cummins is very picky and requires a laundry list to warranty an engine.

They also ask if anything aftermarket has been installed.

If you are worried about the warranty, I would recommend against both.


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[AK Bob]

Agree with all the above advice.

If warranty is a priority, don’t add any after market modifications, use only genuine OEM filters, parts and fluids.

Perform all maintenance per manufacturer recommendations at specified mileage and time intervals.

If you perform your own maintenance keep a record with time, date, mileage and receipts.


2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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[Tcounty]

Thanks.

I figured I’d be better off sticking to factory stuff until 100k.

I don’t mind for the time being.

I’ll see the shop manager when it comes in to see what he has to say.

I’d rather do maintenance myself if possible.


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[Chrisn162001]

Thanks. I figured I’d be better off just stick to factory stuff until 100k. I don’t mind for the time being. I’ll go see the shop manager when it comes in to see what he has to say. I’d rather do maintenance myself if possible.


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You can do your own maintenance and keep the warranty.

Get a maintenance log book and log mileage and dates keep receipts for oil, filters etc.

Its extremely rare that an Cummins engine blows but if it does they will ask for maintenance records.

Get Mopar filters especially fuel and air.

We have been seeing a lot of issues out of part store fuel and air filters with the new 6.7 engine.

STP air filters are causing under boost codes P0299.

And one brand of fuel filters is causing P0087 low rail pressure.

I haven’t found out what brand it is but I’m seeing it almost once a week.


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[SyN]

Great Advice above!
I will only give you my opinion - due to I tend to think about ALOT of Crap more often & differently then most.

1. OCI = If all emissions are still in tact - I would not go past 10K miles - (Depending on your quality of fuel used & quality of HDEO used) soot is ridiculous!
2. By-Pass filter is a great addition for extending your OCI - but not the greatest idea when emissions are all still in tact - Soot is just to small to filter (without causing flow restrictions).
3. Relocation kit - probably will Not Void the crappy warranty - (Depends on your Stealerships IQ rating) & how often they see your 6.7L. - some dealers are pretty laid back on tiny mods.
4. T6 5W-40 or 15W-40 would be a good choice of HDEO.
5. Nothing wrong with the Fleetguard (Mopar) Air / Oil filters = All Extremely Robust & of the highest Quality. (Donaldson) is probably @ the top of the (Spin-On) filter list.
6. Fuel & Air filters - These depend on ALOT of limiting factors = (Fuel Quailty) that you introduce into your fuel tank & (Air Quality) where you spend most of your driving time.
A. Fuel Filters - If you still have the OEM set up still - I would not go past 15K miles on either. (Depending on your quality of fuel) you might change them earlier if need be.
OEM fuel filters are your best bet (Even though they are Ridiculously Overpriced).

B. Air Filters - If you don't live in a dusty environment & never travel dirt roads - Your stock air induction system will keep your air filter in decent shape for 25K miles.
I would just pull it @ 10-15K miles - clean the air box & blow the filter out with comp air.
Now - If you live in the country & continually drive in dusty condtions? - I would change it out every 15K miles with a high quality Air Filter - Remember this is critical!
Your Air Filter - feeds your Expensive Turbo it's main food --> Quality / Cool / Clean Air (Do Not Neglect this System) Clean Air Box & Filter = Long Lasting Healthy Turbo
As long as you treat it like a civilized human being should (with Common Sense).

Rotation of DRW Rams - I'm sure you can google the (Proper/Ideal) method. - I personally would NOT want to tackle that job in my driveway.
Block Heater - These grid heaters work really well (with properly maintained batteries) - this I feel is only a personal preference - maybe below -5 & -15*F is were I would think about it.
Transmission Service - This all depends on your Driving Style/Habits (Towing Med/Heavy Loads often) = 35-50K miles. (Alot of factors adds to this Service Time Line).

Def System - Alot of Advice out there on this subject - if have extra after filling your tank - store properly in a (Cool / Dark / Dry Place) no more then 65*F & no less then 25*F - other wise shelf life will be drastically effected. (Sunlight will effect the life span as well). Outdoor Storage is NOT recommended.
When purchasing DEF - it's best to do your research & purchase from a retailer that sells the CRAP out of it - that way they are constantly restocking with New Product.

I attempted to fill my tank from the pump 1 time - & - It took 2 sec for me to see all the Crystalized DEF (UREA) all over the pump & nozzle itself - There is NO Way in He!!s Creation am I sticking that Nasty A$$ Nozzle into my DEF tank - No Telling what is inside that nozzle as well.
I always buy the Box - & - Have a dedicated funnel (Always clean afterwards & in a Big Ziploc Bag). Yup I am Ana1 as crap about my DEF!

I also try to let the DEF in tank drop below a 1/4 or less before I fill - use up as much as I can before adding New.

Tricks for MPG - Drive Her like a Civilized Human Being!
I will say - Had a co-worker who full deleted his 2015 (last year) - I asked - He commented he is averaging almost 24mpg now.

Exhaust Brake - I run mine (FULL) every time on the Interstate/Highway - Almost every day (Going to Work) Keep the VGT vanes free of soot & functioning properly.

Take all this with a Grain Of Salt and a Non-Sensitive frame of Mind! (JMHO)
Most might disagree - That's perfectly fine with me.
Sorry to Ramble - I tried to give you info on what I would & actually do (with all your questions) Good Luck & Congrats on your 2022!

EDIT Note: I agree 100% with WaterSupply -----> Avoid ALL excessive idle time - Summer Time = Zero (Start - idle for 30sec then put in D or R & slowly drive).
Even in the winter - I will usually autostart from the control room @ work & by the time I walk to the gate = 5min & I slowly drive her to the highway. (Giving all the Oils time to circulate throughout the gears & moving parts).
When the JUDGE is home - she is sitting in a garage that gets no colder then 35*F in the coldest of the winter months.

One More Thing - I know you didn't ask distinctively on this matter - but I feel these actually help extend my Regens cycles as well as help extend the life cycle of my fuel pumps and injectors.
I run Hot Shots Secret (Diesel Fuel Additives) EDT / Anti-Gel / Diesel Extreme in every tank. (Not a Recommendation) - just my info.

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[Tcounty]

Thanks!


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[Tcounty]

My truck moved to D1 status. I

I’m not sure what that means, but at least it moved.


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