I Keep Killing Batteries!

**gamudslinger88** · 11-23-2021

What's up yall?

I am having issues with my batteries and charging system.

My issue is I have been through several sets of batteries. 1/2020 Replaced the factories, 1/2021 Replaced drivers side battery, 10/21 replaced drivers side.

All are Diehard AGM and replaced under warranty.

Now I am exhibiting the same symptoms of a dead battery.

Supposedly this battery tested good but holds 12-12.3 volts after driving, and in the morning, I am at 11.8 with a slow crank.

I live in GA, so it has not gotten cold yet.

Charging volts are 14.4 on average.

I either have something drawing power, or something is killing cells in the batteries.

I only have a RaceME Ultra for aftermarket electronics are concerned.

I have unplugged it overnight several times to see if this was the draw.

I removed the grid heater, so no amp draw at startup.

Has anyone run into this or have any idea where to start?

0 Comment(s)

**AK Bob** · 11-23-2021

Originally Posted by gamudslinger88

What's up yall?

I am having issues with my batteries and charging system.

My issue is I have been through several sets of batteries. 1/2020 Replaced the factories, 1/2021 Replaced drivers side battery, 10/21 replaced drivers side.

All are Diehard AGM and replaced under warranty.

Now I am exhibiting the same symptoms of a dead battery.

Supposedly this battery tested good but holds 12-12.3 volts after driving, and in the morning, I am at 11.8 with a slow crank.

I live in GA, so it has not gotten cold yet.

Charging volts are 14.4 on average.

I either have something drawing power, or something is killing cells in the batteries.

I only have a RaceME Ultra for aftermarket electronics are concerned.

I have unplugged it overnight several times to see if this was the draw.

I removed the grid heater, so no amp draw at startup.

Has anyone run into this or have any idea where to start?

You need to do a Parasitic Draw Test.

This link has some good information and should help get you started.

Please keep us posted.

2014 RAM 2500 With a 4-AMP Parasitic Draw - HELP!

https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...itic-Draw-HELP!

2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

0 Comment(s)

**Tomoad** · 11-23-2021

I have the same problem.

I could not find the draw.

Said screw it put a 4amp trickle charger in the truck.

Plug it up if it sets a day.

All good now

0 Comment(s)

**gamudslinger88** · 11-24-2021

Thanks for the link.

I read through it, and it does give me a place to start.

0 Comment(s)

**gamudslinger88** · 11-24-2021

I may do this to get me by for now.

The crazy thing is this has to be something new because my original batteries lasted three years with no issues, even when I was working in Detroit in the winter.

Now when it gets cold in GA, she has a hard time firing up.

What trickle charger did you go with?

I was thinking of wiring on in with my block heater once I get the cord installed.

0 Comment(s)

**AK Bob** · 11-24-2021

Originally Posted by gamudslinger88

I may do this to get me by for now.

The crazy thing is this has to be something new because my original batteries lasted three years with no issues, even when I was working in Detroit in the winter.

Now when it gets cold in GA, she has a hard time firing up.

What trickle charger did you go with?

I was thinking of wiring on in with my block heater once I get the cord installed.

I would recommend a Noco brand charger; the size (amperage rating) will depend on the amount of parasitic draw you have and how long it will be plugged in.

Based on the information you have provided so far, I recommend a 5 amp if plugged in for 8 to 10 hours or a 10 amp if plugged in for 6 to 4 hours.

2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

0 Comment(s)