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I just did a transmission relearn and left it in the 30hp setting and drove it for 2 weeks with 25 to 30% TP
everything worked out perfect for the relearn process
With that being said, my CVI for the OD is 20...
Shop ordered a new aftermarket drum as well with thinner tolerance clutches to improve the numbers
I'll have yet another relearn process next week... Yay me
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX, YUKON 4.56 GEARS W/ COVERS
AK Bob thanked for this post
That's a little tight for OD.Originally Posted by corkey
Do you have any shift issues on the 3-4 upshift?
What's your UD CVI?
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IGOTACUMMINS thanked for this post
The others i recall seeing was mid to upper 70's
He did mention that he installs them with tighter tolerance but he ordered a new drum an will do thinner disc's?
He also said if this don't fix it, he may just order a new VB
I do feel a real quick shift from 3-4. Some times it feels as if it engages, releases then engages again
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX, YUKON 4.56 GEARS W/ COVERS
I’m assuming he’s using a sonnax drum. Hopefully with the 16 factory clutch setup. But since he’s mentioned thinner clutch’s I’m guessing he’s using the double sided clutch’s that cause issues. There are no such thing as thinner clutch’s. There’s factory size then theirs double sided from other transmissions that people use in these transmission.
Factory borg Warner clutch’s are the best clutch’s you can use in ud an od
It used to be recommend to set the od clearances tight at .040 but since the piston seal is bigger than a factory drum it causes 3-4 shift timing issues .052 on od and .040 clearances on ud clutch’s provide the best shift and allow for good wear life on a sonnax drum.
Mid to upper 70s cvi is kinda loose imo. Most of mine end up around mid 50’s except for low reverse.
What problem are you trying to fix that he’s going to replace the valve body if the drum doesn’t fix?
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watersupply189 liked this post
30hp tune is all I bought.
I basically drive like a grandma anyway so I'll take it easy for the next 2-3 tanks of fuel - no EB and no T/H for the time being @corkey what year is your truck, how many miles towing etc for the CVI on OD being 20?
All my miles (25k) are nontowing and driving like a grandma.
I hope I don't need a built trans someday, guys on the other forum are hot shotting with just regular maintenance on the 68RFE.
IGOTACUMMINS thanked for this post
I don't have anything to tow YET but coming.
The issue with my OD numbers is, that the guy installs them on the tighter tolerances, the clutches need to be a few thousand thinner, and or the drum had something wonky with it.
I have a 08 2500, with 203k.
The 68RFE have pros an cons.
If I recall, the older dodge vans either had the same transmission or its the same drum as what we run in our rigs.
They are a hit and miss when they will last vs break down on you.
If you start to beef it up via, thermal bypass, revmax valve body, triple disc converter, a solid drum, double sided friction disc's, billet input shafts, and get higher line pressure on the trans "less slip = less heat" you will get much more out of it with out a doubt.
I don't see how some of our members can afford some of the tranny's and or swaps but i want to know LOL.
Theres a fellow member who did a Alison conversion on his that has caught my attention.
I use to have the VGT set up, but I went with the 2nd gen set up for cooler EGT and a actuator issues down the road.
The relearn process had nothing to do with the OD numbers being low if that's what you're asking.
Its just my luck
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX, YUKON 4.56 GEARS W/ COVERS
Well, you give me some comfort with 203k on a 68RFE.
I only have 25k miles on mine so I should be ok for the long haul.
The second battery is charging as we speak, then I'll pull the stock file one more time before flashing, and then it's on to unplugging and removing exhaust!
Wish me luck as I have to get it done before I leave for the beach Friday AM, no pressure between working, and chasing a toddler around, and making sure I don't annoy my wife in the process LMAO (she drives a deleted BMW diesel so she is a true diesel lover!)
MM3 flash is complete - started up and all is idling fine- exhaust time boys and gals!
Everything disconnected easily - all exhaust bolts removed - whee those hangers are a bear! I am going to get the Lisle tool for exhaust hangers as I dont have big enough channel locks and I don't want to curse for another hour at them -
I had the Lisle hanger tool, but found it easier to spray the hangers with soapy water then use a small crow bar or large screwdriver with a 1 foot two by four. Use the pry bar to gently pry the rubber hangers off while holding the two by four against the frame and other ridged components as backing to pry against. Hope this makes sense, worked great for me. Hard to get that Lisle tool in the correct position to use properly.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
watersupply189 liked this post
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