MM3 flash is complete - started up and all is idling fine- exhaust time boys and gals!
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MM3 flash is complete - started up and all is idling fine- exhaust time boys and gals!
Everything disconnected easily - all exhaust bolts removed - whee those hangers are a bear! I am going to get the Lisle tool for exhaust hangers as I dont have big enough channel locks and I don't want to curse for another hour at them -
I had the Lisle hanger tool, but found it easier to spray the hangers with soapy water then use a small crow bar or large screwdriver with a 1 foot two by four. Use the pry bar to gently pry the rubber hangers off while holding the two by four against the frame and other ridged components as backing to pry against. Hope this makes sense, worked great for me. Hard to get that Lisle tool in the correct position to use properly.Originally Posted by ricky_bobby
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
watersupply189 liked this post
The others i recall seeing was mid to upper 70's
He did mention that he installs them with tighter tolerance but he ordered a new drum an will do thinner disc's?
He also said if this don't fix it, he may just order a new VB
I do feel a real quick shift from 3-4. Some times it feels as if it engages, releases then engages again
II 60HP STICKS, II 33% CP3, II S464 2ND GEN SWAP, FASS 165 TITANIUM SIGNATURE SERIES, AFE INTAKE HORN, S&B FILTER, 5" TURBO BACK, ALPHAREX HEAD LIGHTS, 38X13.5X20 RAZOR M/T, MOTO METAL RIMS, 6" LA LIFT KIT, COMPLET MM3 KIT, BUILT TRANSMISSION, 6 BOLT REDHEAD STEERING BOX
I’m assuming he’s using a sonnax drum. Hopefully with the 16 factory clutch setup. But since he’s mentioned thinner clutch’s I’m guessing he’s using the double sided clutch’s that cause issues. There are no such thing as thinner clutch’s. There’s factory size then theirs double sided from other transmissions that people use in these transmission.
Factory borg Warner clutch’s are the best clutch’s you can use in ud an od
It used to be recommend to set the od clearances tight at .040 but since the piston seal is bigger than a factory drum it causes 3-4 shift timing issues .052 on od and .040 clearances on ud clutch’s provide the best shift and allow for good wear life on a sonnax drum.
Mid to upper 70s cvi is kinda loose imo. Most of mine end up around mid 50’s except for low reverse.
What problem are you trying to fix that he’s going to replace the valve body if the drum doesn’t fix?
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watersupply189 liked this post
well I started out with channel locks very well - everything popped out easy
EXCEPT that rear hanger - man it is a ***** - currently I’m trying to separate the SCR and DPF to give me a bit more slack to get the rear hanger and rear portion out - it seemed I just needed a bit more clearance to push the rear section forward which I wasn’t getting when it was all in place
wish me luck, I’m supposed to be driving the truck down the beach tomorrow! No pressure LOL
I fought mine for an hour or so before I separated the two then I was able to get them out rather easily. The good news is that the delete pipe is so much lighter I decided not to re-install all of the hangers because they are a pain for sure. I did it by myself with common tools in an afternoon, you got this!
John 16:33
2018 2500 Tradesman CTD Maximum Steel CC 4X4 - Thuren 2" with Fox, Barricade front bumper with Rigid D fogs, 20x9 +18 Mayhem Rampage, 275/65r20 Conti A/Ts, OEM projectors w/HIDs, OEM LED tails, nFab steps, BakFlip G2, Pioneer head w/ kicker speakers
So this is what worked for me after about 2.5 hours total of exhaust removal and unplugging all connections -
-12in. Channel locks from Home Depot and lubricant
-Separate the DPF and SCR completely, unbolt the DEF injector (to get more room, you'll see), remove the hanger on the frame holding the DPF (double rubber grommet and its bolted down) to get the max "flex" in the system -
get the DPF flange free and above the SCR flange - and start hammering the rear exhaust section back towards the rear of the truck to separate the rear section from the SCR -
There is just enough room to get the section free and lower the SCR down wards out of the rear exhaust - then you can slide the DPF off the downpipe and out, and then the rear exhaust can come off the hanger as there is enough room to 'push' it forward and out of the hanger - I tried for almost an hour there is just not enough room with the spare tire area to get the rear exhaust off the hanger intact -
With these methods all pieces were intact, I only mangled up the gasket between the SCR and DPF but if you ever needed to reinstall thats easy to fix -
Going to install my 30" FTE resonator and 4" Flo Pro exhaust now
I guess I am reusing the downpipe gasket? Flo Pro only included 3 nuts and bolts and 5 clamps - wish me luck!
My downpipe gasket was not in great shape so I replaced it with a new OEM gasket.
2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.
watersupply189 liked this post
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