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  1. Top Of Page | #1
    Mortifera's Avatar

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    Complete Audio System Replacement

    As mentioned in a previous post, I decided to replace the entire system.

    I had to watch a youtube video to help me visualize what I will be doing and what I will need.

    That link will be posted at the bottom.

    You will notice in the attachment that I didn't show how I am wiring the component speakers.

    I don't know how I want to do that just yet. I have an 8 channel amp on the way for that and don't know if I feel like running new wire.

    They aren't overly powerful although they are good enough to take advantage of an amplifier.

    Significantly better than stock.

    I will most likely use the existing wires, though.

    Any and all suggestions are welcome. Don't hesitate to ask questions if you have any.



    EDIT 1: I forgot to mention that I already have the speakers, subs, amp, and installation kits/components.

    I did the math on everything already by researching online so I have the correct cable types, cable gauges and fuses.

    Drawing out the system and watching that video actually made me realize there were some better ways to do things and that I was actually missing a few things.

    I went ahead and ordered them.

    Attached Images Attached Images

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  3. Top Of Page | #2
    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Re: Complete Audio System Replacement

    Just one suggestion if you haven’t already considered it I would suggest the appropriate amperage rated relay on the battery feed between the fuse and the distribution box power, triggered by ACC power so the ignition needs to be on for the amps to power up.

    Just to prevent draining the batteries if the system is accidentally left turned on when parked overnight.


    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit and 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

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    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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  5. Top Of Page | #3
    Mortifera's Avatar

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    Re: Complete Audio System Replacement

    That is now my next project.

    That’s why I posted here!

    Thanks for the tip.

    That would have sucked if I’d have missed that.

    I do have like a 30 foot roll of blue wire labeled (remote) wire.

    Is that what you mean?

    I also have a power module that’s designed for cars like police cruisers with tons of electrical accessories that I can program and install.

    It was purchased a few years ago for a project that never went.


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  7. Top Of Page | #4
    I WILL STAND! AK Bob's Avatar

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    Re: Complete Audio System Replacement

    Not sure about the blue remote wire.

    I was just concerned about avoiding direct power from the batteries to the amps even when the ignition is turned off.

    Maybe your power module incorporates this function with the blue remote wire.


    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit and 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit, Cold Air Intake, City Diesel Actuator and 50 Gallon Aux Fuel Tank.

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  9. Top Of Page | #5
    Dallasm12's Avatar

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    Re: Complete Audio System Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by Mortifera View Post
    That is now my next project.

    That’s why I posted here!

    Thanks for the tip.

    That would have sucked if I’d have missed that.

    I do have like a 30 foot roll of blue wire labeled (remote) wire.

    Is that what you mean?

    I also have a power module designed for cars like police cruisers with tons of electrical accessories that I can program and install.

    It was purchased a few years ago for a project that never went.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    It sounds like it's going to be a kick *** system.

    That blue wire is for the remote turn-on lead for your amps.

    There will be some wire coming off of the head unit labeled remote, so it automatically cuts the amps on when the unit turns on.

    I have a Kicker 46CXA1200.1T, 1200 watts RMS, powering a Kicker 41VL7122 sub.

    That sucker thumps, and it took 8 gauge wire with a 100 amp fuse, so it pulls a little power.

    If I have it up loud, the headlights dim, LOL.

    I have a Kenwood Excelon DMX706S head unit, and I have been able to tune the 13 band eq and crossover quite well for the dash and door speakers and the sub, with final adjustments on the amp.

    I have infinity reference series 6x9 and 3.5, and they sound pretty good, but I'm starting to look into a Kenwood component kit the sell that has 6x9 components and the 3.5 coaxes.

    I don't know what gauge the factory speaker wire is or how much power the speakers will get for the amp, but they may be sufficient because it would be a pain in the but to run new speaker wires to everything.

    With all of that power, you will have, I hope you have the alternator to keep up or be like me, looking like a Christmas tree going down the road.

    Speaking of alts, does anyone know what the factory amp output of a stick alt is?

    2016 Ram 3500 SRW 6.7 Cummins Deleted

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  11. Top Of Page | #6
    Mortifera's Avatar

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    Re: Complete Audio System Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by Dallasm12 View Post
    It sounds like it's going to be a kick *** system.

    That blue wire is for the remote turn-on lead for your amps.

    There will be some wire coming off of the head unit labeled remote, so it automatically cuts the amps on when the unit turns on.

    I have a Kicker 46CXA1200.1T, 1200 watts RMS, powering a Kicker 41VL7122 sub.

    That sucker thumps, and it took 8 gauge wire with a 100 amp fuse, so it pulls a little power.

    If I have it up loud, the headlights dim, LOL.

    I have a Kenwood Excelon DMX706S head unit, and I have been able to tune the 13 band eq and crossover quite well for the dash and door speakers and the sub, with final adjustments on the amp.

    I have infinity reference series 6x9 and 3.5, and they sound pretty good, but I'm starting to look into a Kenwood component kit the sell that has 6x9 components and the 3.5 coaxes.

    I don't know what gauge the factory speaker wire is or how much power the speakers will get for the amp, but they may be sufficient because it would be a pain in the but to run new speaker wires to everything.

    With all of that power, you will have, I hope you have the alternator to keep up or be like me, looking like a Christmas tree going down the road.

    Speaking of alts, does anyone know what the factory amp output of a stick alt is?
    I'm hoping it will be enough power, too.

    I was already looking at higher power alternators just in case.

    I didn't realize there were so many options until now.

    I did the beer math calculations and from what I read online, it should be ok.

    We will see.

    My subs combined barely make half the RMS of yours.

    That thing must sound crazy in a truck.

    They always sound better in a truck.


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  13. Top Of Page | #7
    Compton's Avatar

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    Re: Complete Audio System Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by Mortifera View Post
    I'm hoping it will be enough power, too.

    I was already looking at higher power alternators just in case.

    I didn't realize there were so many options until now.

    I did the beer math calculations and from what I read online, it should be ok.

    We will see.

    My subs combined barely make half the RMS of yours.

    That thing must sound crazy in a truck.

    They always sound better in a truck.
    Big 3 upgrade might help.

    Big 3 with big alt would do the trick.

    When your batteries are time for replacements go with deep cycle.

    2018 Ram 2500 Big Horn / 4x4 / CC / 68RFE / 20" Fuel Triton wheels / Toyo RT 37"s / 5" Rough Country Lift / 5" Straight / Studded / CCV Gutted (Reroute) / S&B CAI / Airdog 165 4g II / G&R Sump / Isspro Fuel Pressure gauge (Lift pump) / Isspro Pyrometer / Pacbrake Oil Filter Re-Location / Amp'd Throttle Booster / Raceme Ultra Drd Tunes / Airlift 7500 Bags / B&W Turn Over Ball

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  15. Top Of Page | #8
    Mortifera's Avatar

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    Re: Complete Audio System Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by Dallasm12 View Post
    Speaking of alts, does anyone know what the factory amp output of a stick alt is?
    Mine came with an upgraded 220.

    I think the standard is something like 180 or 200.

    Many of the trucks sold up north have the upgraded alternator from what I found when I was searching for trucks back then.

    I don't know why I remember that.


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  17. Top Of Page | #9
    No Vacancy Power247's Avatar

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    Re: Complete Audio System Replacement

    This looks like a fun project!

    Do you mind listing your various equipment (heading, amps, etc)?

    There are a few of us on here that have done some audio builds and knowing your hardware would help us make further recommendations.

    Looking forward to following along.

    Greg
    2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI
    2016 | Heartland Pioneer | DS310

    Greg
    2019 | RAM 2500 | CCSB | 6.4 HEMI

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  19. Top Of Page | #10
    Mortifera's Avatar

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    Re: Complete Audio System Replacement

    Pioneer W8600NEX

    JL all around
    C2-350x Dash Corners (disconnecting center)
    C3-525 Front and Rear Door
    C5075 Headliner
    Two 12” TW3-D4 (Shallow mount 4 Ohm)
    HD750/1 for subs
    VX800/8i for midrange

    The only problem is I was still waiting for the VX800 to arrive and I just received an email from good ole crutchfield that the new date is 5 May so I am looking into other options.

    If May 5th rolls around and they tell me it is still delayed I will not be able to start this project until middle of August due to a field trip I am going on to Australia this summer.

    Looking at their HD lineup, now.

    I was only going to tune the line coming from the VX800 to the HD750 to send the right signals to the sub amp with my computer.

    Since I am replacing the head unit, would a DSP still be worth it?

    My understanding is that there are some very smart and capable DSP’s out their that could power my midrange setup and it would fit behind my dash.


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