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Thread: 6.7L Cummins ARP Head Stud Warm Retorque Experience

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    Tonybain42's Avatar

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    6.7L Cummins ARP Head Stud Warm Retorque Experience

    Hello everyone, I wanted to share this because when I was asking about it it was about 50/50 on weather or not doing a engine warm retorque was required for the arp 425/2000 head studs.

    ARP says nothing about it in the instructions, but several people here said to hot retorque them.

    I called a few shops and it was 50/50 on weather or not it was necessary.

    Well, I'm very happy I did it!

    While it's kind of a ***** to torque them in the first place and positioning the torque wrench is difficult it's completely worth it!!!

    I have a nice digital torque wrench that displays torque as used and holds peak numbers.

    I did my initial torque about 6 weeks ago and the truck has been sitting since then.

    Finally today had time to let it warm up and pull it apart to do the retorque.

    I had a few start moving right at 100 ft-lbs , even though ARP says 125, and I had previously torqued them all to 130 ft-lbs.

    With it warm some took considerable movement to get back to 125 ft-lbs.

    So I would say anyone installing these should absolutely let the engine warm up.

    I did mine at 180 degrees, because I have a 180 thermostat, and re-torque them.

    I mean I thought there would be slightly less torque from colt to warm from the metal expansion, but seeing that I had movement at 100 and they were torqued to 130.

    That's 23 percent lower torque!

    So retorque those head studs with the engine warm!

    Now time to go put the valve train back on and adjust all the valves.


  2. Top Of Page | #2
    #1 VENDOR cumminsdieselfreak's Avatar

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    Re: 6.7L Cummins ARP Head Stud Warm Retorque Experience

    Quote Originally Posted by Tonybain42 View Post
    Hello everyone, I wanted to share this because when I was asking about it it was about 50/50 on weather or not doing a engine warm retorque was required for the arp 425/2000 head studs.

    ARP says nothing about it in the instructions, but several people here said to hot retorque them.

    I called a few shops and it was 50/50 on weather or not it was necessary.

    Well, I'm very happy I did it!

    While it's kind of a ***** to torque them in the first place and positioning the torque wrench is difficult it's completely worth it!!!

    I have a nice digital torque wrench that displays torque as used and holds peak numbers.

    I did my initial torque about 6 weeks ago and the truck has been sitting since then.

    Finally today had time to let it warm up and pull it apart to do the retorque.

    I had a few start moving right at 100 ft-lbs , even though ARP says 125, and I had previously torqued them all to 130 ft-lbs.

    With it warm some took considerable movement to get back to 125 ft-lbs.

    So I would say anyone installing these should absolutely let the engine warm up.

    I did mine at 180 degrees, because I have a 180 thermostat, and re-torque them.

    I mean I thought there would be slightly less torque from colt to warm from the metal expansion, but seeing that I had movement at 100 and they were torqued to 130.

    That's 23 percent lower torque!

    So retorque those head studs with the engine warm!

    Now time to go put the valve train back on and adjust all the valves.
    This is why I personally recommend a hot retorque, glad you got them installed and don't hesitate to let me know if you need anything else!

    2018 Ram 2500 4x4 G56
    Romans 10:13

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  4. Top Of Page | #3
    Compton's Avatar

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    Re: 6.7L Cummins ARP Head Stud Warm Retorque Experience

    I never had mine back out.

    Not yet anyway.

    When I first put the studs in (I also torqued to 130) I figured I better check later down the road to see if any had loosened.

    After about 1000 miles and putting my foot in it I rechecked the studs and they were all the same.

    I wonder why that is?

    Some peoples back out and others don't.

    Kinda odd.

    I did use quite a bit of the ARP lube and when I first threaded the studs in I bottomed them out and then loosened off a quarter turn.

    2018 Ram 2500 Big Horn / 4x4 / CC / 68RFE / 20" Fuel Triton wheels / Toyo RT 37"s / 5" Rough Country Lift / 5" Straight / Studded / CCV Gutted (Reroute) / S&B CAI / Airdog 165 4g II / G&R Sump / Isspro Fuel Pressure gauge (Lift pump) / Isspro Pyrometer / Pacbrake Oil Filter Re-Location / Amp'd Throttle Booster / Raceme Ultra Drd Tunes / Airlift 7500 Bags / B&W Turn Over Ball

  5. Top Of Page | #4
    #1 VENDOR cumminsdieselfreak's Avatar

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    Re: 6.7L Cummins ARP Head Stud Warm Retorque Experience

    Quote Originally Posted by Compton View Post
    I never had mine back out.

    Not yet anyway.

    When I first put the studs in (I also torqued to 130) I figured I better check later down the road to see if any had loosened.

    After about 1000 miles and putting my foot in it I rechecked the studs and they were all the same.

    I wonder why that is?

    Some peoples back out and others don't.

    Kinda odd.

    I did use quite a bit of the ARP lube and when I first threaded the studs in I bottomed them out and then loosened off a quarter turn.
    I'd retorque them if it were my truck.

    2018 Ram 2500 4x4 G56
    Romans 10:13

    See what we are up to on:
    FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM
    Or Email me at:
    joe@ddpmotorsports.com
    www.ddpmotorsports.com


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  7. Top Of Page | #5
    Moparriggan's Avatar

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    Re: 6.7L Cummins ARP Head Stud Warm Retorque Experience

    I have these to install on my 17' 6.7L.

    I plan on installing them one by one I wonder if i should drive the truck with a 30% throttle or less and let the engine heat cycle a month or so then retorque the hot to 165LBS?

    Suggestions?



    17' 2500 Crew Cab 4x4 6.7L with MM3 by Tyler at T&K Performance , Revmax 700 68RFE , Industrial Injection Silver 69 Turblower, BBI Stage 1.5 injectors, Fleece PowerFlo 750 CP3, Fleece PowerFlo lift pump ARP 625 head studs, Hamilton Valve Springs & Pushrods FLEECE POWERFLOW 10MM coming off this weekend and S&S 12mm going on..

  8. Top Of Page | #6
    Compton's Avatar

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    Re: 6.7L Cummins ARP Head Stud Warm Retorque Experience

    I followed the Glacier Diesel ARP head stud install.
    You have the 625s so it says 160.

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...JW-eHKa9i-MKa6


  9. Top Of Page | #7
    Scrambler13's Avatar

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    Re: 6.7L Cummins ARP Head Stud Warm Retorque Experience

    Quote Originally Posted by Moparriggan View Post
    I have these to install on my 17' 6.7L.

    I plan on installing them one by one I wonder if i should drive the truck with a 30% throttle or less and let the engine heat cycle a month or so then retorque the hot to


    The 625’s are a once and done compared to the 425’s which they say you should retorque them after a few heat cycles.

    2014 Ram 3500 Laramie Longhorn CCLB DRW. *** EGR delete, S&B cold air intake, Flo-Pro 5” stainless turbo back exhaust without muffler, shibby plug kit, MM3 tuner with DRD complete option package. ARP 625 head studs, 103# valve springs, extreme duty push rods, pusher intake horn, CP3 bag of parts, fleece powerflo in tank lift pump.

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