Uncommon Simple Transmission Upgrade

[Jeeptony]

I have a simple trans upgrade that I'm surprised I don't see more often, but I personally have been doing it for years.

I think it's a decent idea with any aluminum case transmission, especially if you plan to remove the transmission pan regularly.

What am I talking about?

Converting your transmission pan bolts to studs!

Years ago, I started doing it on a 47re that the previous owner stripped out a bunch of the pan bolts and a hard-core Mopar hot rod old man I know suggested it, and I've done it ever since on all my Torque Flights, but it has several benefits.

#1 you don't have to worry about stripping aluminum threads.

#2 when installing your pan gasket, you can slide it onto the studs, and it will stay in place

#3 it is much easier to reinstall the pan onto the studs versus trying to line up gasket-pan-bolts when first getting the pan into place. I really appreciated that in the days of rolling around in the gravel soaked in tranny fluid laying under my truck, glad those are over.

It usually costs about $20 for the 14-15 studs and flange nuts. 68RFE pan bolts are m6-1.0, and I don't have a pic of my 68RFE, but here is a Torqueflite 904 I just built for my Jeep threw some studs in the hope someone has more comfortable trans services from this.

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[watersupply189]

Wow!

That’s an awesome idea.

I would of never thought of that.

Thanks for sharing this.


2016 Ram 3500 CC 4x4, G56, Dr. DRD medically cured!

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[SyN]

@Jeeptony !

Do you have a recommendation for what kind or brand of studs?

Do you apply any type of Loctite to the threads that are screwed into the aluminum trans?

Since I will be installing a PPE Pan @ my first service - My studs will have to be a bit longer since the PPE pan base flange is 1/4" thick.

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[Jeeptony]

@Jeeptony !

Do you have a recommendation for what kind or brand of studs?

Do you apply any type of Loctite to the threads that are screwed into the aluminum trans?

Since I will be installing a PPE Pan @ my first service - My studs will have to be a bit longer since the PPE pan base flange is 1/4" thick.

Well it turns out that Honda car motors use the same size threads on their oil pans so there are lots of kits for those if you search "Honda b-series oil pan studs" or something similar to that and they will give you 1 extra stud and nut.

I will get a link to the kit I have used a couple times now on 68RFE and it seems pretty high quality and the studs even have an allen(hex bit) in the tip of them so with those I put red loctite and then torque to factory specs with a hex bit socket.

As far as length of the studs with an aftermarket pan so far I haven't had any issue with them not being long enough they don't stick way out like on my 904 in the pic but they do allow the nut to fully thread on with about 1/8"-1/4" sticking out of the nut.

When I get to my shop later I can take a measurement of the exposed threads and you can compare that to the thickness of your pan surface.

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[Jeeptony]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153260281860

That's the kit I've been using for the 68RFE and it showed up quick and I liked how you could put a hex bit in them to tighten but on some other studs like the ones I use in torque flights.

You have to double nut each one to torque it down or just wrap some electrical tape around some pliers and go by feel.

If you trust your arm is calibrated, but the hex bit is way nicer and makes me think/feel they are higher quality for having it.

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[Jeeptony]

Here is a measurement with studs torqued down and ready to install pan and this is the kit I posted above.

Leaves 3/4" of threads exposed.

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