48RE Shift Issues?

[KiloCummins04]

Hello all, I have an 04 3500 SRW 4x4 lifted, has injectors, turbos, fass, CP3, intercooler, pusher piping and intake horn, oil and coolant bypass, smarty touch with custom tuning.

I did have a fully built trans, never gave me an issue except some electrical stuff last year--> it was going into lockup in 1st and wouldn't lockup in 4th and shifts were smooth couldn't even feel them.

Driving the other night, I left a red light and the truck seemed sluggish, like it was taking extra juice to get it up to speed. at around 40 mph the truck revved up but quit making progress on speed.

I let off the throttle and eased back into it to see and it picked back up like normal, no more problems except the one time I did slow down it was pushing the brakes like the converter locked up in first.. when I got where I was going, I discovered the truck would shift into reverse but wouldn't move/no change in engine sound. I was able to get around the reverse issue for the time and when I left there to go home, the truck now wouldn't shift out of second and was going into lockup in first gear as it had when I pulled in. luckily I didn't have too far to go and I babied it. its now parked in my yard. full of fluid, fluid is clear and red but smells a little burnt on the dipstick. (ATF+4 always smells a little burnt to me, but I believe its a burnt smell) I haven't towed/hauled much as ive been really busy with work and new house and all.

I don't hot rod it, I just drive normal.

I got into an accident about 6 months ago, before that I had a fully built trans. the accident cracked the case and tore cooler lines and a bunch of wires up ( a piece of steel fell off a truck on interstate and it came my direction, went under truck). they replaced the trans, and I asked if they could put back what was there, they said they would have to approve through insurance and I never heard too much else except they approved what they asked for. allegedly a better converter, valve body, billet input shaft and upgraded electronics. they also kept my hi capacity pan and put on new one.

I've run very mild tuning and driven modestly as I know this transmission surely isn't as sturdy as what I had. I'm trying to get time to build another like I did before, but in the meantime, is there any chance this could just be the electronics? or does the lack of reverse point to further that might mean a full blown overhaul?

I know they play a part with the lockup issues.

I'll be able to pull the pan off on Christmas Eve and see, but just trying to prepare myself and see if anyone has any ideas

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[Murph]

Great breakdown Sir! (no pun intended) with that I wish I had some intel for you but like most detailed topics here I'm sponging it up, LOL.

Way out of my wheelhouse but I'm sure there will be more advanced thoughts than I have provided.

Great luck!

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[TexNeck]

Sounds like a converter issue to me.

You’ll know more when you drop the pan.

I hope you have warranty period on new trans since it was 6 months ago?

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[cumminsdieselfreak]

I've saw similar issues in these APPS trucks.

Shot in the dark here but I'd remove the APPS cover and see if there is slack in your throttle cable.

Probably not your case but I've saw this and bad governor pressure solenoids & transducers cause havoc on 47/48s.

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[KiloCummins04]

Thanks you guys!

The shop that did the work hasn't called me back.

I have left 3 messages for the shop manager (he was very helpful when my truck was there and they call me all the time to weld stuff) but I keep getting told he is in a meeting.

I told them if they didn't do what I asked at very least it would last 3-6 months max.

@DDP I did check all fuses.

I haven't checked power feeds yet, and I also took the cover off and the throttle cable isn't quite a guitar string but it is tight, no slack or drooping.

I had noticed over the last month or two the truck seems sluggish when accelerating however I thought it was just me because I also have the 2019 and it jumps up to speed a touch quicker.

I got Mandatory overtime to an ambulance yesterday, and my normal shift today on my fire truck now.

When I get off at 8 tomorrow morning I'm going to throw it on the trailer and take it to the shop to tear apart and investigate.

I'll be sure to post what I find maybe that'll help narrow it down and I'll be able to know if its urgent to build an entire transmission or if I can patch this one up.

My buddy said it could also be the front pump but if it was a reman and they didn't do what I asked, he's betting it had cheap electronics.

It's just hard for me to believe it's a converter when it never really gave a warning with no shuddering or no slipping just simply wouldn't engage and then no reverse, no 3, no 4 and its locking up in first.

It will stay in first if its in drive and you can shift to 2 and it'll go on.

Just so weird.

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[KiloCummins04]

Tore transmission pan off yesterday... fluid is a dark burgundy color.

There was a dark/somewhat metallic thin film in the bottom of the pan, but no big pieces of anything or chunks of converter material.

I took the valve body out and removed all electronics as im going to replace them anyways. shop definitely didn't do what I asked when they had it. accumulator on top of governor pressure solenoid was stuck in the housing about halfway up... didn't take a ton of pressure but had to grab it with pliers to pull it out.

I'm assuming that's definitely part of the problem.

I have a P0712 (trans temp sensor low voltage), P0868 (governor pressure sensor volts high), and P2509 (pcm input signal intermittent) I haven't gotten to all of the power feeds but I don't know if that last one is from me messing with stuff or not.

I'm going to order all of the parts. question is, should I just do a total rebuild or can I replace electronics and converter? (converter probably ok, I just don't like that one) and does anyone know if that makes sense why I don't have reverse or if there's something else inside the unit I should verify?

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[KiloCummins04]

I got the trans out and just waiting for parts to come in now essentially.

I didn't know if anyone had any input or similar experience.

I think I will just rebuild the whole transmission.

Might as well as being as they never installed the stuff they were supposed to after my wreck and a stock trans won't last 6 months with what the Cummins power plant puts out.

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[timshooter40]

I got the trans out.. just waiting for parts to come in now essentially. I didn't know if anyone had any input or similar experience. I think I will just rebuild the whole transmission. might as well.... being as they never installed the stuff they were supposed to after my wreck and a stock trans won't last 6 months with what the cummins power plant puts out.

I think your doing the right thing.

I would be rebuilding the trans too.

Putting in all billet input shaft output shaft and so on.

Plus new valve body to handle high line pressure.

Let us know how it turns out.

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[KiloCummins04]

I think that's my best option. the one I built before was perfect. im just waiting on parts now. got billet shafts, servos, flex plate, 1800 stall DPC billet triple disk, billet accumulator, and a new valve body on the way. I tore it apart and the damn thing looks brand new inside. I didn't tear the overdrive assembly apart completely yet just took it out of the case but all clutches and steels look brand new. aside from accumulator being stuck and knowing the electronics were bad... I don't see anything ominous. I turned it to my lowest tune knowing it wasn't my old transmission. but I found some grey silvery material in the pan.. so Im assuming their budget converter didn't last. all the bands and clutches and everything look brand new. still going to build it back better though.

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[KiloCummins04]

Sounds like a converter issue to me.

You’ll know more when you drop the pan.

I hope you have warranty period on new trans since it was 6 months ago?

I found a thin layer of silvery-grey slick-goo material in the pan (converter I think?) , the fluid was like brownish. no hard parts are worn, clutches and bands all look brand new. so im betting converter and electronics, and some converter material probably;y got into the valve body somehow. who knows.

as for a warranty, left 5 messages for the shop supervisor. I do work for them regularly and he still won't return my calls. so im assuming no warranty....

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