Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor Plug

[Shusaim]

Impeccable timing Bob - plug just arrived this afternoon.

No clue why it took 5 business days to get 300mi - but USPS never fails to disappoint.

I unfortunately just got home so won't make it into the shop today.

I'll be sure to get it done first thing in the morning and will report back.

They certainly look nice, honestly almost custom made as you can clearly see the machining marks on them.

20201205_210219.jpg

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[TexNeck]

Looks like a good piece- I’m following so I can get my bird terd welded sensor plug out if it works LOL.

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[AK Bob]

Impeccable timing Bob - plug just arrived this afternoon.

No clue why it took 5 business days to get 300mi - but USPS never fails to disappoint.

I unfortunately just got home so won't make it into the shop today.

I'll be sure to get it done first thing in the morning and will report back.

They certainly look nice, honestly almost custom made as you can clearly see the machining marks on them.

20201205_210219.jpg

Thanks, hopefully it will do the job.

Are you going install dry or apply any kind of high temp sealant or anti-seize?

Just curious, looking forward to your results.


2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, Fuel Filtration Kit and 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

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[Shusaim]

Good question.

Without the flare bubble, the only thing sealing against the exhaust pressure is the flat face if the bolt; which interfacing against a cast iron port isn't going to be optimal.

I'm going to take the sensor out and shove my inspection cam in to see what it looks like in there - but ultimately my assumption is that I'll need to rely on the threads assisting in the seal as well.

So my game plan is to use muffler and tailpipe sealant as a pipe dope on the threads.

Good to 2000F and can handle expansion and contraction.

Thoughts?

Thanks!
Steve

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[AK Bob]

Good question.

Without the flare bubble, the only thing sealing against the exhaust pressure is the flat face if the bolt; which interfacing against a cast iron port isn't going to be optimal.

I'm going to take the sensor out and shove my inspection cam in to see what it looks like in there - but ultimately my assumption is that I'll need to rely on the threads assisting in the seal as well.

So my game plan is to use muffler and tailpipe sealant as a pipe dope on the threads.

Good to 2000F and can handle expansion and contraction.

Thoughts?

Thanks!
Steve

Since the threads are not tapered I think the sealant you listed would be good insurance. Can’t think of any down side.


2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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[DiggerDave]

Isn't that the fuel rail plug?

Not the exhaust back pressure plug?

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[AK Bob]

Isn't that the fuel rail plug?

Not the exhaust back pressure plug?

No, the plug in the photo is for the exhaust manifold to go where the exhaust pressure sensor has been removed.


2014 RAM 3500 (Aisin) 3.73 4X4 Limited Crew Cab Long Bed DRW. Oil Bypass Filter, 50 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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[Shusaim]

Closing this thread out.

The plug worked perfectly.

Got about 3/4 of the threads engaged and it seated on the flair mouth inside the manifold.

Now if I can only find a delete plug for the sensor - I'd be set.

It unfortunately didn't come with the Shibby kit.

sensor_delete.jpg

Thanks again for everyone's help!

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