Hub Bearings And U-Joints

[TH-64]

Hi everyone I need some advice.

I've had a pulse in the steering wheel when turning, especially when coming back to straight.

Also heard a slight squeak today while turning sharp in reverse.

I jacked up the front to find the RF turning hard while turned. The U-joint appears to be shot.

The LF has slight play when grabbing top and bottom of the tire.

The bearing seems to be going bad on that side.

So I checked around a little for bearings and see that Timkens are around $550 a pair double the generics.

Are they worth it?

I haven't priced Moog yet.

I assume I can find U-joints with grease zerks? Should I look at free spinning hubs?

I hate that the front drivetrain is always spinning on this.

The truck is a 2012 2500 with 65,000 miles.

Thanks,
Thomas

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[03 unicorn]

Hi everyone I need some advice.

I've had a pulse in the steering wheel when turning, especially when coming back to straight.

Also heard a slight squeak today while turning sharp in reverse.

I jacked up the front to find the RF turning hard while turned. The U-joint appears to be shot.

The LF has slight play when grabbing top and bottom of the tire.

The bearing seems to be going bad on that side.

So I checked around a little for bearings and see that Timkens are around $550 a pair double the generics.

Are they worth it?

I haven't priced Moog yet.

I assume I can find U-joints with grease zerks? Should I look at free spinning hubs?

I hate that the front drivetrain is always spinning on this.

The truck is a 2012 2500 with 65,000 miles.

Thanks,
Thomas

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

From what I hear if you don't plan on selling your truck and plain on driving another 4-500k more miles and can afford the initial cost of the free spin kits it pays for its self after roughly 2-300k miles, not to mention you will add the ability for 2wd low.

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[TH-64]

I do plan on keeping this truck a good long while.

I like the idea of lock out hubs, but it would look dopey without front center caps.

LOL.

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[watersupply189]

Hi everyone I need some advice.

I've had a pulse in the steering wheel when turning, especially when coming back to straight.

Also heard a slight squeak today while turning sharp in reverse.

I jacked up the front to find the RF turning hard while turned. The U-joint appears to be shot.

The LF has slight play when grabbing top and bottom of the tire.

The bearing seems to be going bad on that side.

So I checked around a little for bearings and see that Timkens are around $550 a pair double the generics.

Are they worth it?

I haven't priced Moog yet.

I assume I can find U-joints with grease zerks? Should I look at free spinning hubs?

I hate that the front drivetrain is always spinning on this.

The truck is a 2012 2500 with 65,000 miles.

Thanks,
Thomas

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I would go with Moog.

They have the grease zerks.

Now free spinning hubs would be the way to go if you like that center cap off. LOL


2016 Ram 3500 CC 4x4, G56, Dr. DRD medically cured!

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[badbajawa]

Spicer greasable u-joints and whatever is the cheapest for hubs.

I've had Timkin's go a 100,000 miles and 10,000.

I have found that whichever 100-150 on amazon has the best reviews seems to be every bit as good as the Timkins now and trust me when I say they live a tortured life on my truck.

Spend a quarter of the price and plan on doing them every 50-60k has become my new thoughts lately.

I've done so many now that it really doesn't take any more time than the average brake job.

Just learn how to use the power steering to push them out rather than trying to beat on them with a BFH.

I personally feel that the Timkin name isn't what it used to be and I'm starting to hear the same from differential shops.

My personal opinion is that manual locking hubs suck and are ugly on these trucks and they often stick out farther than the wheels and tires so they are much easier to hit on something.

I've had a set several years ago and came to the conclusion that yes it's nice to have a rebuildable bearing set but you still have to tear it down to get to the u-joints so it's really not worth it IMO.

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

Hi everyone I need some advice.

I've had a pulse in the steering wheel when turning, especially when coming back to straight.

Also heard a slight squeak today while turning sharp in reverse.

I jacked up the front to find the RF turning hard while turned. The U-joint appears to be shot.

The LF has slight play when grabbing top and bottom of the tire.

The bearing seems to be going bad on that side.

So I checked around a little for bearings and see that Timkens are around $550 a pair double the generics.

Are they worth it?

I haven't priced Moog yet.

I assume I can find U-joints with grease zerks? Should I look at free spinning hubs?

I hate that the front drivetrain is always spinning on this.

The truck is a 2012 2500 with 65,000 miles.

Thanks,
Thomas

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I did Spyntechs, and my LF axle joint was toast at 42K; now, going down the road, nothing spins.

I used Moog axle joints with grease fittings.

WarnHubsClose.jpg

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[toyota_mdt_tech]

Hi everyone I need some advice.

I've had a pulse in the steering wheel when turning, especially when coming back to straight.

Also heard a slight squeak today while turning sharp in reverse.

I jacked up the front to find the RF turning hard while turned. The U-joint appears to be shot.

The LF has slight play when grabbing top and bottom of the tire.

The bearing seems to be going bad on that side.

So I checked around a little for bearings and see that Timkens are around $550 a pair double the generics.

Are they worth it?

I haven't priced Moog yet.

I assume I can find U-joints with grease zerks? Should I look at free spinning hubs?

I hate that the front drivetrain is always spinning on this.

The truck is a 2012 2500 with 65,000 miles.

Thanks,
Thomas

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Thomas, get the Moog ujoints; there is a regular version (zerk in the base of the cross) and an HD version, needlepoint zerk at the end of one of the cups.

Moog 479 for the regular unit and Moog 279 for the ultra duty.

If you get the 479, make sure zerk points inward.

I did the Spyntech free wheeling hubs and upgraded to the WARN hubs; the best move I made.

A buddy of mine likes it so much, and we did his too.

Spyntech is the best IMHO kit.

Uses lots of generic standard DANA 50/60/70 35 spline stuff, i.e., bearings, seals, etc.

Nice going down the road knowing none of that hardware is spinning up front now.

Spyntech for your rig, use drop down box and upgrade to WARN

My kit installed.

WarnHubsClose.jpg

My buddy's 2015 Tradesman, same kit as yours (12-18my). Installed.

3500hubsA.jpg

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[Rip6.7Baker]

If your pulsating doesn't go away after you replace your u-joints or hubs, I would next look at replacing your steering gearbox.

I ran into this problem on a 2013 3500 where it was pulsating in corners, and it almost felt like the truck wanted to start death wobbling while I turned anywhere at speed from 25mph-80mph.

I replaced the ball joints, axle u-joints, drive line u-joints, tie rod ends, drag link, track bar, and sway bar end links, and after replacing everything and aligning the front end, we still had pulsating.

I had already planned on replacing all those parts because im a fan of doing everything at once and updating to serviceable joints.

I replaced the gearbox, and it was finally gone.

Usually, gearboxes are supposed to last the longest in the steering system but maybe Mopar but a cheap batch in trucks nowadays.

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