I did do the drill bit check and actually threw a micrometer down the ones I had open didn't notice anything crazy out of round but I didn't realize there was a vacuum test to be done.
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I did do the drill bit check and actually threw a micrometer down the ones I had open didn't notice anything crazy out of round but I didn't realize there was a vacuum test to be done.
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2014 Ram 3500 mega cab srw, full thuren 2.5 kit, 38" toyos, 4.56 gears, revmax 850 68RFE, grid heater delete w/ monster ram, steedspeed manifold, Ats aurora 6000 add a turbo(s465), ARP 625s, pushrods & springs, 5" tbe, sb filter, stock fuel
Here is a link to a thread with the relearn procedure from Revmax.
Within are some temps and things to look for.
Two biggest take always are temp might be ok, or the o ring in TC might be damaged.
https://www.igotacummins.com/threads...Tranny-relearn
Might be worth a call to Revmax to have a discussion with them.
2018 srw 3500
watersupply189 liked this post
Have 700 miles on it now.
I have towed a few times with no further issues yet.
I haven't had time to load it with 10k and go trying to pull grades and see what happens yet but temps have been more stable so far.
Haven't seen 180 again yet.
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2014 Ram 3500 mega cab srw, full thuren 2.5 kit, 38" toyos, 4.56 gears, revmax 850 68RFE, grid heater delete w/ monster ram, steedspeed manifold, Ats aurora 6000 add a turbo(s465), ARP 625s, pushrods & springs, 5" tbe, sb filter, stock fuel
watersupply189 liked this post
My 68RFE recently failed on me. Truck would barely move, temps climbed up to around 230.
Codes on RaceME:
p0731: Gear Ratio Error in 1st
p0734: Gear Ration Error in 4th
p0845: Trans Fluid Press Sens/Switch B Circ
p0934: Line Pressure Sensor Circuit Low
p0987: Trans Fluid Press Sens/Switch E Circ
It was basically a stock unit that I rebuilt in March when I started the 2nd gen swap and delete.
I put a McLeod Racing/Raybestos heavy duty clutch kit in it, and it made it about 15k miles with no issues.
I tore it down yesterday, and found some strange issues.
It looks like it lost fluid to a section of the tranny. The UD/OD clutch shafts were seized together, the bushings welded to the shafts, and the bearing between them was destroyed.
I'm pretty sure it was a valve body issue.
I rebuilt the valve body and added the Sonax shift improver parts, but didn't replace it.
So, I ordered an ATS valve body, and complete Input drum, and pump. I also ordered the upgraded 2C and 4C Raybestos clutches (extra discs).
I have a new Torque Converter, but it's a factory unit, and I don't want to shell out for an upgrade at this time.
Anyone think of something I'm missing?
Here's an update for anyone that was interested.
I now have about 5k on the rebuild. It's getting cold up here now so no way to test in the heat. I've towed 10k a few times now and it gets a bit hotter in town and in stop and go situations, like 160 ish now but towing on the freeway I'm seeing 135 steady it might get to 145 when pulling grades.
It still warms up at idle. If I start it cold it would probably take an hour to get to 160 but after driving warming to 130 it normally warms up to 160 in about 10 minutes. I haven't seen it go over 168 since my last post so I feel as though its cooling probably.
I very much like the feeling of the sonnex od housing and clutches. Smoother and much more solid feeling.
I'm still getting to the re-gear time is a bit of an issue currently but I'll try to get it done before the end of the year.
I did have a good laugh last night when changing my rear brakes for the first time as I thought to myself "you know you drive a ram when you have to change your transmission before your brakes". I guess I have a sense of humor about it still.
Anyway that's my update so far so good.
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2014 Ram 3500 mega cab srw, full thuren 2.5 kit, 38" toyos, 4.56 gears, revmax 850 68RFE, grid heater delete w/ monster ram, steedspeed manifold, Ats aurora 6000 add a turbo(s465), ARP 625s, pushrods & springs, 5" tbe, sb filter, stock fuel
Sorry for the dumb question but I was struggling with the search function.
What diff fluid should I run when swap gears here?
Gearsets will be on their way shortly so I need to get fluid ordered so I have it all when I have the time.
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2014 Ram 3500 mega cab srw, full thuren 2.5 kit, 38" toyos, 4.56 gears, revmax 850 68RFE, grid heater delete w/ monster ram, steedspeed manifold, Ats aurora 6000 add a turbo(s465), ARP 625s, pushrods & springs, 5" tbe, sb filter, stock fuel
75-85w synthetic gl5
Just under 3qts for front and 4.5 for rear.
This way I can vicariously see the build.
2018 srw 3500
Well I just talked to a buddy, mostly trying to get someone to talk me into paying to have them done and he was like oh yeah I've done almost a hundred of them now. So I guess we will be doing them after all.
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2014 Ram 3500 mega cab srw, full thuren 2.5 kit, 38" toyos, 4.56 gears, revmax 850 68RFE, grid heater delete w/ monster ram, steedspeed manifold, Ats aurora 6000 add a turbo(s465), ARP 625s, pushrods & springs, 5" tbe, sb filter, stock fuel
And it died again.
Will update when I know more.
It has about 20 seconds of line pressure runs flawlessly then loss of all pressure and won't move forward or back.
Turn it off then back on and it moves for another 20 seconds.
I'm going to pull the pan tonight and check that both filters are still tight otherwise I'll be ordering a new pump and torque converter, which I probably should have done anyway, but again the plan was for a full Revmax unit in a year or so.
So I didn't want to double spend.
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2014 Ram 3500 mega cab srw, full thuren 2.5 kit, 38" toyos, 4.56 gears, revmax 850 68RFE, grid heater delete w/ monster ram, steedspeed manifold, Ats aurora 6000 add a turbo(s465), ARP 625s, pushrods & springs, 5" tbe, sb filter, stock fuel
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