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Thread: Turbo Talk

  1. Top Of Page | #61
    TexNeck's Avatar

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    Re: Turbo Talk

    Quote Originally Posted by flanagan View Post
    Yup the vendors on this forum are great, but man it's getting expensive.

    BOOM there went my transmission no kidding.

    We all know it's the chance we take when we add extra power.

    Ray told me to give Tom a call at Revmax so I did.

    Great guy to talk to and answered all of my questions

    With no pressure and educated me quite well.

    The Revmax 700 is on order three weeks out.

    Tom gives Ray's customers a nice discount to.

    But o my gosh

    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
    I would think you should be bulletproofed sometime soon.

    What happens with stock?

    How many miles?

    The Revmax will hold up great for you!

    2013 Ram 2500
    John 3:16 - Philippians 4:13

    See what we are up to on:
    FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM
    Or Email me at:
    mike@ddpmotorsports.com
    www.ddpmotorsports.com



  2. Top Of Page | #62
    flanagan's Avatar

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    Re: Turbo Talk

    Well, I finally got it out those Torque converter bolts.

    They are a pain in the rear not to mention doing it by myself in the driveway.





    Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk


  3. Top Of Page | #63
    TexNeck's Avatar

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    Re: Turbo Talk

    Well got it installed.

    Took about 7 hours total by myself.

    I did pull the manifold and turbo together which I had an extra pair of hands help with along with hanging new setup (40 mins) and I fooled with the down pipe vband by myself for an hour or so before calling for backup which took an hr with 2 of us.

    Pretty straight forward- The kit was complete but instructions sucked IMO. Luckily I didn’t really need them.

    7/16 wrench for vband, 7/8 wrench for turbo coolant lines, 8mm oil drain, 3/4 oil feed, 13mm for stock manifold bolts, 14mm for BD Manifold nuts, 8mm for airbox clamps.

    A few takeaways- I left battery tray and grid solenoid installed. If you leave this in then remove power wire from grid (14mm) or cover it. I arched this to the block pulling manifold out LOL.

    Pull the oil drain out of the block to reshape - it’s impossible to just unbolt it from bottom of turbo.

    I lost about 3.5 gallons of coolant.

    I am still on break in/relearn with new valve body so I will report back driving soon.

    I haven’t been an advocate for CCV delete but after seeing factory charger and all the film on it I will be buying a filter to gut ASAP

    Attached Images Attached Images
    2013 Ram 2500
    John 3:16 - Philippians 4:13

    See what we are up to on:
    FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM
    Or Email me at:
    mike@ddpmotorsports.com
    www.ddpmotorsports.com



  4. Top Of Page | #64
    legendaryandrew's Avatar

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    Re: Turbo Talk

    Not sure if op is still interested in pertinent info, but I did mine last year, full second gen swap.

    My OEM VGT died at 130k miles. I went with DRD tunes on an MM3, Steedspeed manifold, BW S364SXE top mount, 5" exhaust, all deletes.

    This turbo, if I remember correctly, pushes enough air to almost hit 600hp at the top end, but spools similar to stock. I went back and forth with the 400/300 frame turbo, and and settled on the 300 frame because from what I could learn, it's the smarter choice.

    Similar air flow out of a smaller faster spooling turbo. I never saw anything negative about their reliability, but I guess we'll see haha I have 25k miles on mine already, so far runs perfect still.

    Anyway, something I learned years ago in the tuner car scene, size the turbo and build the vehicle for what it'll actually be used for, and be real with yourself.

    If it's going to spend 99% of it's miles going up and down the freeway commuting, why spend the money for all that power for that 1%, when it's actually going to hurt drivability for the rest?

    I wanted more reliability and similar to stock driving characteristics with some added power.

    The RPM band isn't large enough in a diesel to justify going big on a turbo unless it's a dyno queen, used to race, or lots of WOT pulls I guess.

    My truck spent 99% of it's time going up and down the freeway to and from work, and for that the turbo I chose was amazing.

    Immediate power, everywhere. And it is FAST for an 8500 lb lifted truck rolling on mud tires considering I keep it on the second lowest tune to save the trans.

    '13 CCSB 6.7
    DRD tuned MM3, deleted, H&S S364SXE, Steed Speed CNC manifold, 5" exhaust, Banks 3.5" intake manifold, grid heater delete, CAT fuel filters, BW44-47 swap, CAD delete w/ one piece axle, Dynatrac free spin, Detroit rear AAM/PW front e-locker, 4.88 Nitro gears, Carli Pintop 3.25", King 2.5, Carli-Deaver leaf packs, Carli radius arms, Carli steering stabilizers, 1" blocks in rear, bronze 20x10 Fuel Coverts, 38x13.50x20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

  5. Thanks 6.7 Coal Train thanked for this post
  6. Top Of Page | #65
    Basic Member ckage83's Avatar

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    Re: Turbo Talk

    Quote Originally Posted by legendaryandrew View Post
    Not sure if op is still interested in pertinent info, but I did mine last year, full second gen swap.

    My OEM VGT died at 130k miles. I went with DRD tunes on an MM3, Steedspeed manifold, BW S364SXE top mount, 5" exhaust, all deletes.

    This turbo, if I remember correctly, pushes enough air to almost hit 600hp at the top end, but spools similar to stock. I went back and forth with the 400/300 frame turbo, and and settled on the 300 frame because from what I could learn, it's the smarter choice.

    Similar air flow out of a smaller faster spooling turbo. I never saw anything negative about their reliability, but I guess we'll see haha I have 25k miles on mine already, so far runs perfect still.

    Anyway, something I learned years ago in the tuner car scene, size the turbo and build the vehicle for what it'll actually be used for, and be real with yourself.

    If it's going to spend 99% of it's miles going up and down the freeway commuting, why spend the money for all that power for that 1%, when it's actually going to hurt drivability for the rest?

    I wanted more reliability and similar to stock driving characteristics with some added power.

    The RPM band isn't large enough in a diesel to justify going big on a turbo unless it's a dyno queen, used to race, or lots of WOT pulls I guess.

    My truck spent 99% of it's time going up and down the freeway to and from work, and for that the turbo I chose was amazing.

    Immediate power, everywhere. And it is FAST for an 8500 lb lifted truck rolling on mud tires considering I keep it on the second lowest tune to save the trans.
    I appreciate this insight.

    I've been reading and learning about 2nd gen swaps for a little over a year and I'm getting ready to plunk down some cash to get things going.

    My buddy has a 467 and plans on mild fuel mods down the road and swears it's the be all end all of turbos.

    From my perspective I daily drive and never race this truck.

    I like modding it and working on it so that's why I sink the money into it.

    It predominantly spends life up and down the highway and with some heavy footed pulls on the onramps.

    After reading about the 300SXE sertups, I'm leaning towards going this route as a primary charger with room to compound a 400 on it later on.

    Thanks for everyone who has chimed in!


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  8. Top Of Page | #66
    TexNeck's Avatar

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    Re: Turbo Talk

    Quote Originally Posted by ckage83 View Post
    I appreciate this insight.

    I've been reading and learning about 2nd gen swaps for a little over a year and I'm getting ready to plunk down some cash to get things going.

    My buddy has a 467 and plans on mild fuel mods down the road and swears it's the be all end all of turbos.

    From my perspective I daily drive and never race this truck.

    I like modding it and working on it so that's why I sink the money into it.

    It predominantly spends life up and down the highway and with some heavy footed pulls on the onramps.

    After reading about the 300SXE sertups, I'm leaning towards going this route as a primary charger with room to compound a 400 on it later on.

    Thanks for everyone who has chimed in!
    Keep us posted!

    Looking forward to seeing how the mods go!

    2013 Ram 2500
    John 3:16 - Philippians 4:13

    See what we are up to on:
    FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM
    Or Email me at:
    mike@ddpmotorsports.com
    www.ddpmotorsports.com



  9. Likes watersupply189 liked this post
  10. Top Of Page | #67
    6.7 Coal Train's Avatar

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    Re: Turbo Talk

    Quote Originally Posted by TexNeck View Post
    Well got it installed.

    Took about 7 hours total by myself.

    I did pull the manifold and turbo together which I had an extra pair of hands help with along with hanging new setup (40 mins) and I fooled with the down pipe vband by myself for an hour or so before calling for backup which took an hr with 2 of us.

    Pretty straight forward- The kit was complete but instructions sucked IMO. Luckily I didn’t really need them.

    7/16 wrench for vband, 7/8 wrench for turbo coolant lines, 8mm oil drain, 3/4 oil feed, 13mm for stock manifold bolts, 14mm for BD Manifold nuts, 8mm for airbox clamps.

    A few takeaways- I left battery tray and grid solenoid installed. If you leave this in then remove power wire from grid (14mm) or cover it. I arched this to the block pulling manifold out LOL.

    Pull the oil drain out of the block to reshape - it’s impossible to just unbolt it from bottom of turbo.

    I lost about 3.5 gallons of coolant.

    I am still on break in/relearn with new valve body so I will report back driving soon.

    I haven’t been an advocate for CCV delete but after seeing factory charger and all the film on it I will be buying a filter to gut ASAP
    Looks good, keep us posted here.

    2017 2500 Laramie: DRD Juiced, 5" TBE, Invisible EGR mod, BD Iron Horn 364sxe/1.0AR, 20x10 Hostile Sprockets, 33x12.50 General Grabber A/T, HID Conversion, Reverse Level 2" Drop CSS Rear Coils

  11. Likes watersupply189 liked this post
  12. Top Of Page | #68
    6.7 Coal Train's Avatar

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    Re: Turbo Talk

    Quote Originally Posted by legendaryandrew View Post
    Not sure if op is still interested in pertinent info, but I did mine last year, full second gen swap. My OEM VGT died at 130k miles. I went with DRD tunes on an MM3, Steedspeed manifold, BW S364SXE top mount, 5" exhaust, all deletes. This turbo, if I remember correctly, pushes enough air to almost hit 600hp at the top end, but spools similar to stock. I went back and forth with the 400/300 frame turbo, and and settled on the 300 frame because from what I could learn, its the smarter choice. Similar air flow out of a smaller faster spooling turbo. I never saw anything negative about their reliability, but I guess we'll see haha I have 25k miles on mine already, so far runs perfect still. Anyway, something I learned years ago in the tuner car scene, size the turbo and build the vehicle for what it'll actually be used for, and be real with yourself. If it's going to spend 99% of it's miles going up and down the freeway commuting, why spend the money for all that power for that 1%, when it's actually going to hurt drivability for the rest?

    I wanted more reliability and similar to stock driving characteristics with some added power. The RPM band isn't large enough in a diesel to justify going big on a turbo unless it's a dyno queen, used to race, or lots of WOT pulls I guess. My truck spent 99% of it's time going up and down the freeway to and from work, and for that the turbo I chose was amazing. Immediate power, everywhere. And it is FAST for an 8500lb lifted truck rolling on mud tires considering I keep it on the second lowest tune to save the trans.
    Completely agree with all of this and staying realistic.

    I'm leaning back towards the S467, but I think the 300 sounds pretty good too and at least you have some real world miles on it.

    2017 2500 Laramie: DRD Juiced, 5" TBE, Invisible EGR mod, BD Iron Horn 364sxe/1.0AR, 20x10 Hostile Sprockets, 33x12.50 General Grabber A/T, HID Conversion, Reverse Level 2" Drop CSS Rear Coils

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  14. Top Of Page | #69
    TexNeck's Avatar

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    Re: Turbo Talk

    Quote Originally Posted by 6.7 Coal Train View Post
    Completely agree with all of this and staying realistic.

    I'm leaning back towards the S467, but I think the 300 sounds pretty good too and at least you have some real world miles on it.

    Which kit has your eye?

    2013 Ram 2500
    John 3:16 - Philippians 4:13

    See what we are up to on:
    FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM
    Or Email me at:
    mike@ddpmotorsports.com
    www.ddpmotorsports.com



  15. Likes 6.7 Coal Train liked this post
  16. Top Of Page | #70
    6.7 Coal Train's Avatar

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    Re: Turbo Talk

    Quote Originally Posted by TexNeck View Post
    Which kit has your eye?
    I'm pretty sure I'm set on Evil Fab Labs S467 kit with a cast wheel (supposed quicker spooling than Billet).

    I reached out to them and they seem knowledgeable and helpful going back and forth with me over email with lots of info on turbo sizes and whatnot.

    Their kits look really high quality as well if you check them out on Instagram - all V-bands, no silicone couplers, and the welds look fantastic.

    Pricing is right in line with WC Fab, if not slightly less.

    Building a house right now so hopefully get the 2nd gen kit going next summer when things cool off financially.

    I think my wife would divorce me if truck parts started rolling through the door at the moment.

    2017 2500 Laramie: DRD Juiced, 5" TBE, Invisible EGR mod, BD Iron Horn 364sxe/1.0AR, 20x10 Hostile Sprockets, 33x12.50 General Grabber A/T, HID Conversion, Reverse Level 2" Drop CSS Rear Coils

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