Great idea, so I’m tracking the ARPs are studs, right?
So looking at the engine, I should see nuts, not bolts.... so to speak?
Great idea, so I’m tracking the ARPs are studs, right?
So looking at the engine, I should see nuts, not bolts.... so to speak?
Yes.
Like these.
2018 Ram 2500 Big Horn / 4x4 / CC / 68RFE / 20" Fuel Triton wheels / Toyo RT 37"s / 5" Rough Country Lift / 5" Straight / Studded / CCV Gutted (Reroute) / S&B CAI / Airdog 165 4g II / G&R Sump / Isspro Fuel Pressure gauge (Lift pump) / Isspro Pyrometer / Pacbrake Oil Filter Re-Location / Amp'd Throttle Booster / Raceme Ultra Drd Tunes / Airlift 7500 Bags / B&W Turn Over Ball
Awesome, thanks!
How bad are they to install?
Not too bad.
Lots of videos on YouTube.
If you are already missing the EGR cooler, it will be easier.
You do have to notch out the rocker girdle on the rear to clear one of the studs.
It's recommended to check valve train lash and retorque studs.
I checked torque on mine after 1000 miles, and they hadn't moved.
2018 Ram 2500 Big Horn / 4x4 / CC / 68RFE / 20" Fuel Triton wheels / Toyo RT 37"s / 5" Rough Country Lift / 5" Straight / Studded / CCV Gutted (Reroute) / S&B CAI / Airdog 165 4g II / G&R Sump / Isspro Fuel Pressure gauge (Lift pump) / Isspro Pyrometer / Pacbrake Oil Filter Re-Location / Amp'd Throttle Booster / Raceme Ultra Drd Tunes / Airlift 7500 Bags / B&W Turn Over Ball
Hello, are the 2000 good for just under about 700 hp?
2016 Dodge Ram 3500,Smittybilt M1 bumper, turbo back exhaust, ARP HEAD STUDS, BD Diesel ProTect68 68RFE Gasket Plate Kit and BD deep trans pan, SCREAMER HE300VG Turbo, BD Diesel Exhaust Manifold, Monster-Ram® Intake System 3.5-inch, Banks Air filter, BD Grid heater delete, RaceMe Ultra, tunes supplied by DRD.
So I just went through this and ordered some today from DDP.
I went with the 625s after reading several threads about the arp the 2000s breaking, and from all I’ve read, the 625s were one torque cycle and done.
Also, a lot of the breakage I saw the studs were generally rusty or pitted, and the 625s are also corrosion-resistant.
I figured for around 1100 dollars vs. 450ish, that was a cheap premium to pay compared to a future head gasket job, and if by chance 2000 did break, I’d end up never trusting it and buying the 625s anyway.
Just my thoughts and what I ultimately decided.
I also plan on doing an S467 swap shortly as well, though.
Machine work ahead will cost more than the 625s with zero labor on top of that as well.
Again just my opinion, I see tons of people on here running 2000s or h11s just fine, but I felt the additional cost was worth the additional insurance.
Thanks,
Jeremy
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