Really want to do this.
ARP best?
I want to do it and not worry about it.
TIA
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Really want to do this.
ARP best?
I want to do it and not worry about it.
TIA
Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
2012 RAM SLT 2500 HO | Deleted | S&B CAI | MM3 DRD | 35x12.50R20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers on 645 Dropstars
ARP we feel is the best, but comes at a high price tag.
God bless,
igotacummins
I'm leaning towards trying the IFG high tensile studs when I get in there.
They look pretty good, comparable to ARP 625, just not widely proven yet.
Cost around $900, significant savings over ARP.
2017 2500 Laramie: DRD Juiced, 5" TBE, Invisible EGR mod, BD Iron Horn 364sxe/1.0AR, 20x10 Hostile Sprockets, 33x12.50 General Grabber A/T, HID Conversion, Reverse Level 2" Drop CSS Rear Coils
ARP is considered the best by most and is our best seller by far.
I'll shoot you a PM.
2018 Ram 2500 4x4 G56
Romans 10:13
See what we are up to on:
FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM
Or Email me at:
joe@ddpmotorsports.com
www.ddpmotorsports.com
So I am pondering this particular thing, and with a tune in my future, I figure it might be the best course of action to spend some money on these head studs before I get my 10.
It pushes it back another month or two, but hey, it'll be worth the wait, right?
Is there a real big difference between the $700 ones and the $1,800 ones?
Any information would be super cool
Marine Vet
grease monkey
half way decent human
2010 2500 4x4 6.7 Crew Cab 3.73s 34in xtl cooper alerterains. I call it Brutus. DRD'D, (epic cool) nothin fancy.
ARP are the best IMO.
One set is $435 (2000s) and the other set is $1,150(625s).
The 2000s are good for most applications(65'ish psi or less).
We have them both ready to ship as well.
2018 Ram 2500 4x4 G56
Romans 10:13
See what we are up to on:
FACEBOOK | INSTAGRAM
Or Email me at:
joe@ddpmotorsports.com
www.ddpmotorsports.com
I am going to consider, however, at the very moment, probably tomorrow evening; I'm going to pop my cover off and see if possibly this is already done.
My truck is 11 years old, but more importantly, somebody has, I still believe, replaced the transmission and transfer case at some point.
It has the S&B intake already, has a lift and tires, and airbags.
I'm near optimistic that somebody may have done this already, but I'm not going to assume that just yet.
If this is already done, that means that basically, I'm down to just needing to get the correct turbo-back exhaust before I can get my truck tuned.
Exciting stuff, people, if I do say so myself.
Marine Vet
grease monkey
half way decent human
2010 2500 4x4 6.7 Crew Cab 3.73s 34in xtl cooper alerterains. I call it Brutus. DRD'D, (epic cool) nothin fancy.
You don’t have to pull the valve cover to check for studs.
Just look at the head bolts by the rocker-box on the exhaust side.
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Well, hot damn, that was super simple.
I didn't know that I could do that, and what I found is both heads, not studs, so it appears that I might have to a thing.
Marine Vet
grease monkey
half way decent human
2010 2500 4x4 6.7 Crew Cab 3.73s 34in xtl cooper alerterains. I call it Brutus. DRD'D, (epic cool) nothin fancy.
So if you read below your last post and pretty much just above this one, my conclusion is that I have found that I actually have bolts and nut studs, so I will need to do this.
Right now, I can't afford to do it, but it'll be one of those projects I will have to put off for a month or so.
I take that back probably another couple of weeks, but I will be hitting you up accordingly.
Marine Vet
grease monkey
half way decent human
2010 2500 4x4 6.7 Crew Cab 3.73s 34in xtl cooper alerterains. I call it Brutus. DRD'D, (epic cool) nothin fancy.
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